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  #1  
Old 12-19-2005, 06:07 PM
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Cockeyed steering wheel- 95 124 w/airbag

The steering wheel of my 'new' 95 124 diesel isn't 'straight'. I need to adjust it about 10 degrees to the left so that it is completely horizontal when heading straight down the road. How is this accomplished?

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  #2  
Old 12-19-2005, 06:38 PM
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By taking it to an alignment shop. When you straighten the steering wheel, you are affecting toe. The best way to make sure toe is set after you turn the tie rod turnbuckles, is to have it on an alignment machine. Mercedes are a little different as they require a push bar to put tension on the front of the wheels to set toe.
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  #3  
Old 12-19-2005, 06:53 PM
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Adjusting Steering Wheel

I have the same issue with my '88 260e. The toe-in seems to be okay, the car tracks fine and the tires wear evenly but the steering wheel is a little off-center.

Can the steering wheel just be pulled off and re-positioned to center? I have considered trying it but setting off the air bag scares me.
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  #4  
Old 12-20-2005, 11:24 AM
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No, you cannot pull the steering wheel off and reinstall it in a different position to get it centered. There are two reasons why. 1) The granularity of adjustment just isn't there - you cannot get it exactly centered. I forget whether these cars use a six sided hex or a splined shaft to engage the wheel to the steering column. Either way, it is very, very, very unlikely that a different position will correspond to 'straight ahead.' You'll find the wheel still cockeyed, too far one way or the other.

Reason #2. The steering gear is machined with tighter tolerances in the straight ahead position. This is part of what gives these cars their 'on rails' driving character. The steering gear is in the straight ahead position when the wheel is centered - as originally installed by the factory.

The correct way to center the wheel is to adjust the tie rods for equal toe in the on-center position.

- JimY
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  #5  
Old 12-20-2005, 11:36 AM
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If one has correct amount of toe and wheel is not level at straight ahead position, then the guy did not set the wheel to straight ahead when he adjusted toe.
A simple remedy is to lenghten one tie rod and shorten the other both the SAME amount . [ count turns]. This changes where the SW is in relation to the tire angle without changeing the toe.. Do this until steering wheel is straight.
The direction of adjustment is dependent on if the wheel is not centered right or left. You can usually see that by centering the SW and then see which direction the tires are starting their turn [ right/left]
Most shops don't know that many Benz have a lock on the steering box that can be engaged before alignment to assure straight ahead position before setting toe.
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  #6  
Old 12-20-2005, 11:36 AM
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I suppose the correct way is to do this is during an alignment.

You can make a small correction by taking off the steering wheel and shifting it a few splines in one direction or another.

Working around the airbag IS nerve wracking.

On my W124, 1991 300CE, here is what I did.

Disconnect battery. I stick a piece of wood between the battery and the lead so they don't accidently touch. Let the car rest about 1/2 hour. Two torx captive bolts under the airbag. An allen wrench works in a pinch. Slowly pull off the bag to expose the wire and red connection. Pry it off with a small screwdriver. Set aside the bag face up. The big allen bolt is usually in there pretty good. I was able to break it free myself, probably because the loctite was too old. I've tried this on my 2000 C280, but I could break the bolt free. It will probably take two people to do it. One to hold the steering wheel and one to torque. Do not torque against the steering lock.

glenmore
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  #7  
Old 12-20-2005, 11:50 AM
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You do not make the change at the splines ..See Jim Y's posting.... along with the fact that offsetting steering wheel from the steering column also effects the directional cancelling tabs location.
The proper adjustment is tie rod geometric location in relation to the pitman arm angle.. that's it !!

One does not move the SW to be in relation to the front end alignment...rather, one makes the adjustments to the front end to be in proper relation to a pre-centered SW.
The SW is centered FIRST, not LAST...b/c it is a driver control.. and the driver controls the car , not the car controls the driver.

of couse , this does not apply to the kids Go Cart.... you can play with the SW on that one ...

Last edited by Arthur Dalton; 12-20-2005 at 12:05 PM.
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  #8  
Old 12-20-2005, 03:05 PM
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I absolutely hate when my wheel is not straight

You just need a good alignment by someone that knows something about your car. I have a super speed shop that does a great job, but they charge more than the dealer, since they usually work on Porsche racecars. I think you should go to the dealer and specifically ask that they be absolutely sure to straighten out your steering wheel.
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  #9  
Old 12-20-2005, 03:13 PM
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I concur with Arthur's statements. I've adjusted the tie rods on various cars of mine many a time. I'm just hestitant to suggest the procedure to someone who doesn't understand how a car is aligned, or the steering wheel centered.

BTW, it's also less work to adjust the tie rods than to remove the steering wheel. Just turn the steering all the way to one side and the tie rod is accessable. Then turn the wheels the other way and adjust the opposite side. No disassembly required.

- JimY
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  #10  
Old 12-20-2005, 03:53 PM
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< >>

It is that simple ..

*A note on which way to turn:

If , when going down a flat road, you have to turn the SW left to get it centered , then you shorten the right tie rod and lengthen the left one ..
Just the opposite if you have to turn the SW right to find center.
Just mark a bright line on each adjuster and go in 1/4 turns [ 90 degree] each time and then go test it. You can get it perfect.

.. and remember too, R/L on a vehicle is as seen from drivers seat position.
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  #11  
Old 12-20-2005, 07:36 PM
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While you are contemplating all this info, there is one other thing to consider. On a lot of older 124's, we have had a heck of a time getting the turnbuckles to turn,,,,, usually a lot of heat from a torch is required. Benzes have,,, of course,,, a different setup to adjust toe than most cars, and if it hasn't been touched in a while it can be a REAL bear.
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  #12  
Old 12-21-2005, 04:36 AM
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Glenmore

You need to be more careful what you suggest people do to their cars when clearly you do not know.

AS everybody is correctly saying, the steering wheel got to the wrong position in the first place through badly adjusted tracking.

The tracking therefore needs to be returned to it's original position.

It is vital on Mercs with the recirculating ball steering box that the straight ahead position is maintained because the self adjusting aspect is at it's most effective in the straight ahead position.

You must surely know and have felt when the car is parked and steering is at full lock there is plenty of play in the steering wheel.

If you change position of the steering wheel by removing it and replacing in a different position on the splines, you will end up with a straight ahead wheel, BUT the steering box will now be at a permanently wrong angle and there will be more sloppiness in the steering feel than normal.

Your car must drive crap !!!!!! Get it sorted, you will be pleasantly surprised.

Regards
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  #13  
Old 12-21-2005, 09:58 AM
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<>

I agree.. I have often thought it would do the group well if erroneous tech postings were deleted by the poster, as these go into the Archieves and stay forever.
We all post technical errors and it usually gets pointed out . When it does , this may be a good thing to consider......
The Delete feature can only be used by the Poster or webmaster, so that
leaves it in the posters hands.
???
Certainly would help the correctness of the Archieves, which has become an invaluable tech resource....
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  #14  
Old 12-21-2005, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kth286
Glenmore

You need to be more careful what you suggest people do to their cars when clearly you do not know.

AS everybody is correctly saying, the steering wheel got to the wrong position in the first place through badly adjusted tracking.

The tracking therefore needs to be returned to it's original position.

It is vital on Mercs with the recirculating ball steering box that the straight ahead position is maintained because the self adjusting aspect is at it's most effective in the straight ahead position.

You must surely know and have felt when the car is parked and steering is at full lock there is plenty of play in the steering wheel.

If you change position of the steering wheel by removing it and replacing in a different position on the splines, you will end up with a straight ahead wheel, BUT the steering box will now be at a permanently wrong angle and there will be more sloppiness in the steering feel than normal.

Your car must drive crap !!!!!! Get it sorted, you will be pleasantly surprised.

Regards
No reason to have a hissy fit and get personal and insult my car! My car drives just fine, thank you.

As anyone reading can gather and as I acknowledged in the first line of my post, the correct way is thru a proper alignment. I described working around the airbag to help the one poster and others that may need to get in there for other reasons.

glenmore
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1990 LS400
2000 C280
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  #15  
Old 12-21-2005, 01:25 PM
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JimY wrote


After a lower control arm [used] and steering gear box [reman] were installed on my 95 e320 Wagon, it doesn't have the "on rails" feel. Rather a constant wander left/right [1" at steering wheel] when going straight, yet ok when turning. Could an incorrectly aligned steering gear box to the steering column cause the "wander?"

Thanks
Bob

PS I told MB dealer of R&R items before they did alignment. No unusual wear patterns on Michlein 205/60/15 tires on stock rims.

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