transmission filter change
 

93 500sel/S500
123,500 miles

me and a (he use to work for a local owned benz repair shop) buddy are going to change out the transmission filter if i receive tommarow.

how much transmission fluid do i need?
and is there any special type or brand of fluid that i need?
is there any special tools that i need to do this???
can i put any additives such as Lucas stop slip?
is there anything else i need to know before doing this?
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
thanks in advance

Then you'd shell out good money for no reason, the purpose of this board is to learn how to operate on your vehicle in a successful manner. Because you are scared to get under it does not mean you need to make someone else feel the same way.

Changing the ATF is a VERY simple PM issue often overlooked that can result in costly repairs. It'd be quite foolhardy to simply "replace it" when it needs only a new filter, pan gasket, and ATF.

If you drain the converter (that should still be a four speed 722 with no OD) as well as the filter, I'd pick up two gallons of ATF. Fill it with five then check the level accordingly. For some reason I think the converter holds about four quarts.

I use cheapo ATF from McParts in all my vehicles and has worked fine for hundreds of thousands of miles with no ill effects. Some swear by Syn in the ATF, not me. I do not go for extended drain intervals there and I do not beat on the unit to warrant the higher heat capacity.

No need for additives, just keep it clean and change it often.

Only tools that would be smart to add to the arsenal at home would be an in-lbs torque wrench so you can torque those pan bolts properly. Aside from that you need a screwdriver, metric sockets, and such.

Good luck with the drain, it's very simple to do. :)

i should be receiving the filter and gasket it the next hour.

now im having thoughts of just taking it to the dealer for the change out and while its there run a diagonstic???

Not sure if I have the full story or not.... Is there a problem with the tranny? :confused:

tranny slipping i think???

is a dipstick tool required?

Are you saying you don't have a dipstick or you can't find it? Worst case - you could always measure what is drained out and replace the exact amount.

Have you tried searching on the fluid change procedure? It's been discussed before.

Hopefully your transmission is like mine. This is how I change the fluid....

The torque converter has a drain. You have to turn the torque converter until the drain plug is at the bottom. I believe a 5mm allen wrench removes the drain plug on the torque converter and pan. Drain both. You'll get about 7 quarts out of the transmission. Remove the pan, clean it, and replace the filter. I believe the pan gasket is reuseable. Button everything back up. Initially, pour only 4 quarts through the transmission fill/dipstick tube. Start the engine and let it idle. Pour in the remaining charge.

It's best to fill it short about 1/2 - 1 quart, then check the fluid level hot after a long ride and refill it to the proper level.

is there any certain brand or type of transmmison fluid that i need or can i just pick some up from any auto parts store???

i dont have a dipstick i will have to meassure the old oil the way you said. ho
i just checked out the diy for the 722.6 tranny (i dont know if its the same as mine).

what kind of fluid do i need???

thanks

My car is awaiting a fluid/filter change as well. When I inquired about this I was told that regular "Dextron/Mercon" will work fine. :confused: :confused:

so just something like some regular dextron 3 will do the job no synthehic or special mbz oil.

thanks

Seems as though.

Transmission Hydraulic Fluid
 

Given the expense and apparent failure rate of some MB transmissions, it might be worthwhile to consider using the recommended fluid. The dealer has it, or you can look at http://www.***************/
Some have suggested doing an analysis on the used fluid to check for internal deterioration.
Since dealers have a checkered reputation on how to care for these transmissions, it might be worthwhile taking your car to a recognized and reliable independent for the first fluid change to establish a baseline, then doing it yourself thereafter.

Dexron III - that's what's specified for my car and that's all I use.

MB Approved Service Products

Since when is a 1993 a late model unit? :confused: Last I checked that 722 was the same as the later W126s. I have well over 20000 miles on my SD's trans with cheapo ATF, about 5000 on the L's, 80000 on the Z, and about 25 on the Ford.

i was thinking about doing this tommarow but might hold on until monday.
i will keep everyone posted.

thanks for the replies.

Fluid change is easy
 

there are a couple of things you should do when replacing the fluid. As mentioned before you remove the drain plug from the converter, and remove the pan. You should visit the dealer and purchase a new drain plug, and if you remove the plug in the pan get one of those too, you should also purchase the Dipstick tool as well to do it right. This trans does not require syn fluid, Dex III is the best. Remove the pan, replace the filter, install the pan, start at the center and work your way out on the bolts, replace drain plugs, install dipstick. Typical drain and fill including converter is 6.3 quarts. I usually put in 5.5, drive around the block, (gently) then check it after running through all the gears. If the fluid has never been changed before, I would change it, drive it for a few days or about 200 miles, and then change it again. The reason for this is because when you put in new fluid the detergent loosens all the buildup, if you don't change it again it will clog the trans. If you already have shifing problems you may need some work in the valve body. These trans are very simple and easy to work on, they will last a long time if taken care of. The biggest cause of problems is inaccurate fluid level, and if you don't have a dipstick and it is leaking, you probably have too little as this will cause slipping.
Good luck!
Brian

Good followup by Brian. I would add that when the pan is off, it should be cleaned of the silt buildup on the bottom.

I don't understand why you recommend replacing the drain bolts. They only need new washers, which comes with the kit.

I always replace my drain bolts cause I am afraid they will strip out, just me I guess, But you are correct, if there is no damage done while removing you could use the same plugs and replace the rings.

Well hell I may as well put in my 2 cents!:) I to am getting ready for oil and tranny change . Question is there a drain plug for the converter on the 4.2 V8 ?:confused: :confused: Tanks and whats with jumping of the timing chain? Or is that something on the 6cyl?

Smokie

Torque converter drain plugs disappeared in about September, 1999.

Len

MB Fluid?
 

I don't think I have ever seen specific MB trans fluid for a 722.5 or earlier trans? I went to the dealer and purchased my filter kit and asked for fluid, they gave me Dexron III mobil trans fluid, Is there such a thing as MB fluid for the trans? I know I get it for my soft top, my rear end, and my brakes, but I have not seen trans fluid from MB? Maybe the dealer is just giving me the easy stuff?
Brian

That is discouraging enough to make me not even want to change mine the first time, because I am lucky to get it even changed once. I do not think mine is that bad however, because the fluid does not look that bad, actually it looks OK, but I have no idea when it was last changed.

The only reason I am changing mine is because of that "slamming" into gear when the car is warmed up. After it warms up, I often have to place it in "D" or "R" with my foot off of the brake, or else it slams in gear and the engine stalls. :eek:

Otherwise, the shifts are perfect. :rolleyes:

im getting started on filter change i have a problem with the alarm heres the link http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/141499-alarm-wont-let-my-car-start.html

so i have the pan off and i drained the torque converter (not to much oil came out of it), im just letting it fully drain. the oil looks pretty clean but i think it was changed before i bought it at 121,500 miles (i know have 123,500). the filter is dirty.

when i had the transmission checked by my mechanic he said he thought the syilnoyd might be out but he couldnt diagonis it with the computer because he didnt have the connections for the car. is there any way to check the m or look to see if they are bad, now that the pan is off???

i did the filter and oil change on the transmission and i figured out to get the car started and now another problem.

(i was trying to get the door issue fixed while the warmed up)the car is on at idle and im standing in the back of the car and the exhaust sounds weird (at this point the car has been on for almost 10 minutes). i thought maybe because it hasnt been on in about a month or more. the engine then sounds like it wants to shut off so i give a little rev and it stays on, i disconected the negative post from the battery to see if the car would turn off and the rear lights start dimming a bit so i connected back, a few seconds after the car starts to sound as if it wants to shut off then exhaust starts sounding weird again and then the car turns off with a popping noise after from the exhaust (i dont know if this is called backfiring).

i tried restarting the car but it sounds like it doesn't crank over??? sounds like it wants to turn on but doesnt crank???

any suggestions on what to start checking???

thanks in advance

Eeek
 

First of all don't ever disconnect the battery while the car is running, that really freaks out a benz! I used to do that on my old cars to determine if the alternator was working, but on a benz if you do it you can really mess something up. If you had it at idle, then after it warmed up and started missing, that sounds to me like a vac leak. The computer will try to compensate by adjusting in and out the TBA and if it can not the engine will die. It will also go into limp mode. Check your vac lines, especially the one that goes right into the firewall from the engine's intake manifold. After you determine if there are no vac leaks go to the basics, fuel and ignition. Is the engine cranking now? Did you just buy this car or something? Seems like you are having a lot of trouble. Be patient, after you get the bugs worked out you will love the car, take your time and don't get in a hurry, they are easy to work on and usually nothing major goes wrong unless they are neglected or someone repairs them incorrectly. Good luck.
Brian

im going outside to check it out??

i didnt find any leaking vac lines. so i just tried starting again not expecting for it to start and it did.
the first try it started so i took off the the intake part and looked for vac leaks and after the car turned off about a minute later i hear a clicking noise coming from the upper right side of the car to the lower right of the master cylider and brake booster, there was a cover with a screw in the center i took it off under it there is a switch that can be moved up and down and there are some relays next to it i dont know what this is but the clicking noise was coming from here (its were i could feel it).
another try and it still feels like it wants to turn off so i rev the gas to 1500 rpm steady and if i let go it would shut off with a popping noise.
i started it again and looking at my gauges my ASR and ABS lights are on.:confused: i dont know if this means my ASR isnt working or what? or if this even has anything to do with the car be this way?? but when i bought the car the man told me that he had replaced ASR module because it wasnt working. i put it in drive and the car vibrates like crazy wanting to shut off, so i with the brakes down i rev the car a bit then after put it in park without reving it and the car shuts off with a popping noise from the exhaust.

i dont know what to do with this car anymore i tried to be patinet with it and take my time but it just keeps hitting me in the back of my head with a bat.:(

please i would appercaite any suggestions.


thanks

Tba
 

From what it sounds like it is your Throttle Body Actuator. This causes the ASR and ABS light to come on. Have you replaced the harness in that car yet? It is a 93 so it will need one. Check the wires, especially the ones that go to the TBA. Do a search on TBA and you will find links on how to test and send them in for rebuild. It could be your Harness causing the TBA to fail, but a failing harness can damage the TBA too.
One thing that is of concern is the it sounds like you have some clicking relays too, the 93 has those goofy fuses, take each one out, inspect it, clean the ends, make sure you have no bad fuses as this will cause relay malfunction and can effect your engine controls as well.
Was the car running when you brought it home? You said you just let it sit and now this? You may have to spend some time on it, can you reach the prior owner to find out if the harness has been replaced? just curious, good luck!
Brian

no contact with the previous owner.
the car was running when i bought it but need minor work like shocks and a wax. but for some reason i suspected i was going to be in for a long ride.



today i started it up and it turned on fine (my ASR and ABS lights didn't stay on), so i drove it around the block and it seems to be running fine then i come to a stop and then hit the gas and the car doesnt respond poorly. the rpm went up to 2000 and its feels like the car is not getting any power, so i let go of the gas and quicky put my foot on the gas again and then it responds correctly, this thing went on and off with the response. i pull up to my house to check the oil level but i couldnt really read it, i walk around the car and it starts sounding a little shakey from underneath, when istand in the back of the car next to the exhaust tips it sounds weird kind of like a THSSS THSSS THSSS (like it wants to die out) and then the exhaust makes a lound popping noise, i then get in the car to put it away before it die's on me and when i put it in drive it shuts off.

do you know what this might be.
my mechanic (or anyone else in town) doesn't have the plug-ins to diaginose the car, and the mercedes dealer is 35 miles away.

with my options what do you suggest i do???

i appreciate all the help you and everyone else have given me so far.

thanks

Is the engine wiring harness original? I pretty sure this model has the brittle wiring insulation problem. Some MB mechanics will not move forward with driveability diagnostics unless the engine wiring harness is replaced. This is because of the spurious shorts that occur when the insulation flakes off. Take a peek under the wire wrap to look at the condition of the insulation. You may be shocked.

He has an S-Class and it has been my understanding that the S-Class did not have this "wiring" issue. ?? :confused:

i dont know if the harness has been changed but i highly doubt it has been.
its a 93 500sel w140 i belive some people still consider the 92 and 93 ans s-class, i dont know if the eletrical is different from the actual 94-99 s-class???

for the turning off problem:
ok so i have been real busy lately with my new job (12 hour shifts). but i droped off the car with my mechanic and its been there for about 3 weeks now, and i went in yesterday to check on it and he said, that the problem has to do with fire??? and he ran diagonstic and and two things came up which were the main crank sensor and the distribuator's sensor's (but he said they have another name) which he pointed out were at the top of the distributors, they're circle shaped, and they look like metal. now he said he not sure exactly which one it could be but more likely he thinks its the crank sensor. but says if its the distribuator senors its not going to be both its only going to be onw since theres two.


so i dorve out to the delaership and got a print out of the crank sesnor to confirm with my mechanic the correct part. but i couldnt find on the delaers computer the distribuator sensor, instead they printed the cam sensor ( i dont know if thats the part???). im going to confirm the parts with my mechanic tommarow so that i can order???

would a crank senor cause the shutting off of the car with that exhaust popping noise????

or do these suggestions that my mechanic gave me even sound about right for the problem???

please i really need your guy's help because even though hes my mechanic i still need and want your guy's suggestions and expereince???:confused: :confused: :confused:

thanks

bump

bump

:confused:

Hello,
There is nothing called a Distributor sensor, there is a Cam position sensor and the Cam adjuster. The Cam adjuster sits in front of the intake cam and is round, that is right next to the distributor because the distributor is driven off the exhaust cam. There is also a Cam position sensor, that is located on the side of the head next to the intake cam. (just to the right of the Cam adjuster) There is the Crank shaft position sensor as well, that is located on the engine block in the rear, usually around the starter. Your mechanic stating it has to do with Fire is correct, he actually means spark or timing, the firing of the engine. The Cam sensor and Crank sensor notify the computer of the position and adjust the timing according to the information recieved. Replacing these is likely a good place to start. Have you checked your plug wires, plugs, and coils? Check out our website at www.mbca.org/northtexas click on technical and then engine technical. Review the engine controls, there you will see on the 119 engine where all the sensors are located.

yeah he meant cam sensor... sorry
i took the print outs from the delaer to my mechanica and he pointd out the crank postion sensor which he would recommend changing out, so i did a little bit of reserch and it sounds some what similar but the difference is that most people that need this changed out have problems with there cars turning off when there hot (after driving for a while), where to compared to me where mine turns off after the car is only on (in park or driving) for 10-15 minutes. the previous owner had the problem of it turning off after drivng a long while then he would have to wait half an hour and then it would start, he sadi he fixed the by changing the distribuator???

i got a price from the delaer they said $202 for the crank postion sensor 93 500sel. i tried checking online and the i only found cam sensor for $140, but not any crank sensor. do youn know of any place that i can find a better price than the delaer $200--???

thanks in advance

If there are not any parts listed on the catalog at Fastlane then give them a call, they will help you out. Also check performance products. It takes awhile to get the parts, but they are genuine MB parts at a good price. The dealership is expensive unless you get your MBCA discount.
I would fix your timing issue first and get the engine running, then after that if it dies after it is warmed up, you have another problem. The CAM and Crank position sensor likely has nothing to do with temprature, but keep in mind the engine fuel mixture and idle are adjusted according to temprature, the sensors that feed this information to the computer would be at fault.

Oil
 

Put some goos syn oil in there,youll be glad.
Redline makes a good product.