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  #16  
Old 12-31-2005, 08:55 AM
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Location: Utrecht, the Netherlands
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With the proper tools (Snapon FLX M-13) it is relatively easy to remove the water pump. I would not recommend to try to force the hose in without removing the pump, you will risk to damage the inside of the hose. Once the reinforcements get wet the hose will fail.

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  #17  
Old 01-02-2006, 04:54 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
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Couple of questions

Okay so I have managed to get the bottom bolt on water pump loose so thats three bolts off... (below the intake manifold) I can't seem to find anymore holding it on, am I wrong and theres a fourth?. Another thing is how do I drain the coolant from the engine, and then refill it? can I just slowly pour it in the resevior but I have a feeling that will just fill the rad. Aswell will I need a new gasket?
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  #18  
Old 01-02-2006, 06:05 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlanta Ga.
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Yes there is in fact 4 bolts holding the water pump on the m103. They will be in a rectangle pattern. I would advise to at least replace the rubber o-ring gasket on the water pump. this is where the leak tends to be
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  #19  
Old 01-02-2006, 06:53 PM
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Thanks lbduke300te seems like the bolt closest to the rad at the bottom of the water pump is a bit tricky to get at, the belt tensioner is in the way. I was hoping I could do this without removing anything. can anyone tell me what this snap-on fx m-13 thing looks like?
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  #20  
Old 01-03-2006, 05:24 AM
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Here is the link;

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=2096&PartNo=flxm13&group_id=257&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

Rob
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  #21  
Old 01-18-2006, 02:38 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 13
Thumbs down flxm13

The flxm13 doesn't fit throught the gap either, I'm going to attempt it the correct way by sliding power steering pump out of the way and trying to get at the belt tensioner. Boo that was a waste of $83 dollars (thats a lot of beer)
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  #22  
Old 01-18-2006, 05:35 PM
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Location: Utrecht, the Netherlands
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The head does not fit trough the gap. It should be possible to enter it somewhere else and slide it to the right position.
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  #23  
Old 01-18-2006, 05:55 PM
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Location: Saugus, CA USA
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There is a block coolant drain under the exhaust manifold under the third cylinder from the back, I think, or somewhere near there.
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  #24  
Old 01-20-2006, 06:55 PM
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Done

Thanks guys for the advice, I completed it today in about 4 hours, after removing the 19mm bolt on the belt tensioner it dropped enough to fit the FLXM13 Thanks again for all the help, car is running smooth!
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  #25  
Old 01-22-2006, 02:20 PM
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Spoke to quick

After running it for a day, I noticed a noise coming from something on the serp belt. Noise got louder and made me believe that water pump is gone. It was the original water pump so I should have just put a new one on in the first place.
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  #26  
Old 01-22-2006, 03:22 PM
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Join Date: May 1999
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Well, take the belt off and spin the pulleys. See which one makes the noise. May be the water pump, may not.
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  #27  
Old 01-22-2006, 05:52 PM
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Location: Utrecht, the Netherlands
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Usually the pump starts leaking before the bearing fails. The easiest way to find out what makes the noise us by using a car stethoscope and check al the belt pulleys. These stethoscopes are very cheap and worth the money. Just put it on the bearing brackets, as far away from the belt as possible, be careful that is does not get caught by the belt!!
In my car the small pulleys from the belt tensioner and the one above the alternator ware worn and made noise. The smaller they are, the faster they turn (and wear).

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