I removed the accumulators because they may be the reason my suspension is not working on my 300 TE wagon. The shocks do not appear to be leaking.

Can the accumulators be tested to see if they are working? They appear to be the orginals on 1992 with 133K miles.

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I had lot of foam rush out (actually it was mostly foam) when I tried to bleed the system so maybe my problem is the accumulators.

I'll just get new accumulators and see it that fixes the problem.

Have you ever had to replace the rear shocks? Do they have an expected life span?

If ya got them out replace them, they are cheap. The shock is really a hydraulic piston, when they leak they are usually bad. Flush the system use MB oil, change the filter. I saw something once about using pressure guages, but it had more to do with checking the valve.

My source sells them for $104 each, with free shipping, know anywhere that is less expensive?

I have a "clunk" from my left rear wheel when I go over a low speed bump or man-hole cover. Feels like it is on the rebound, not the compression. Like the wheel is dropping without being "checked."

Would this be the strut or the accumulator? I already replaced the sway-bar links, I don't see any oil weeps anywhere, and nothing looks or feels loose.

500E

At that age & mileage it's a sure bet they need replacement; no further diagnosis required.

The 124 shop manual says the struts need be replaced only if they leak or make noise. They don't wear out with normal use. I presume the accordian boots on yours are pretty well shot? It'd be nice if those could be replaced to protect the expensive shocks, but I don't think they are available separately.

The shop manual specifies the acceptable range of pressure within the nitrogen spheres. I don't recall the numbers, but it's extremely high. I suppose they could be tested, but it would require specialized equipment. Citroen automobiles use an essentially identical hydropneumatic suspension and it's common to recharge the spheres. Many moons ago I had the number of a business which did this, but have long since misplaced it.

How is foam a sign of bad accumulators?

- JimY

The accordians are shot and the bump stop on one is gone. I've tried a couple of sources for just those parts but they don't seem to be available separately as you stated.

Many moons ago there was a post about a company that recharged the accumulators for Citroen's. Perhaps that post could be sought out.

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Removing the Accumulators- A few tips

The hollow hex head bolt that goes thru the banjo fitting is a 10mm hex head bolt. torque to 30Nm

The other fitting on the accumulator is 11mm. torque to 14Nm

The three bolts that hold each accumulator are 10mm. torque to 22Nm

All fasteners came off easily except 10mm hex head. To avoid stripping the head I use a 3/8" impact with suitable extension. The other one was so tight 3/8" drive impact would do nothing. I used the ½" drive impact and it came right off.

Yes they can be tested after you take them out, here is how:
insert a mid-size screwdriver in the accumulator hole, if it went inside to the end of the accumulator then it's defected, and if it went inside the accumulator but not too much so you can feel that there is a rubber inside then it's working fine.

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Specific to the W140, but some good readin' ;-)

http://v12uberalles.com/pressure_spheres.htm

http://v12uberalles.com/Rear_Struts.htm

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later this afternoon, i'm going to tackle the 2 accumulators in my 95 e320 wagon. i'm printing out that pdf from buckwheat's post. is it safe to assume thats all the info i need to know? looks like a look of panel removal and whatnot just to get to them. I hope this is an afternoon job. we'll see. I figure if I can get though an evap core, this should be plenty easy.

Good info here
http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/showthread.php?t=16008&highlight=suspension+spheres

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okay dokay.

did some investigative wrench turning and while I didnt get very far, I did learn some things.

1) i took out way too many interior panels. all that needs to be removed is the panel immediately behind the 3rd row seat.

2) I've confirmed my accumulators are shot as when i removed the small line up towards the top, the oil was all foamy. Also, the 11mm crows foot is CRITICAL. I don't really see how one could do it without one.

3) a 10mm hex is required to remove the large center screw that connects the oil fitting. I was using a 3/8" drive and BROKE the universal joint. Its clear to me that these are the original accumulators and the car has 111k miles. needless to say, those screws are in there mighty tight. Tomorrow i'm moving up to 1/2" drive. heck, an impact would be wonderful!

4) be mindful of the shafts that connect to the diff. there are 4 or 5 screws that attach the shaft to the diff, and it just so happens that one if them lined up perfectly so that it was impossible to get the 10mm hex in there.

5) initially i used ramps to lift up the back, but I think tomorrow i'm going to use tall stands.

thats all for now. I'll update tomorrow evening.

What does the hydropneumatic suspension do other than level the car? On 220 chassis cars with ABC (Active Body Control) they actually assist with the handling and ride. What do they do for the pre ABC cars?