rearview mirrors flash red and green alternatly
 

My 1996 e300d with about 190k miles has an intermitant starting problem.

Sometimes the car will not start and the rearview mirrors flash red and green alternatly. Usually after a few tries the car will lights will stop flashing and the car will start. Could this be cause by the ingintion switch or some type of bad relay??? I bought the car used and do not have the electronic key so the car doors and ingition are always operated using the physical key.

As further information the car has stoped running twice when ideling at a standstill. (I have replaced the fuel filter and all glowplugs.)

Mark

Be prepared to buy a new battery. ;)

Replaced the battery
 

Interesting, I just replaced the battry this afternoon, not because of this issue but due to it's failure. It started the car early but not after lunch.

When it got tested it was shown to have been complete toast......

Mark

So you're okay now ? ;)

not the car battery, but the batteries for the remote

Ray. :confused:

In the past whenever red and green lights flashed alternatively in my rear view mirror, there was always a cop parked or cruising behind me.

:)

flashing lights on mirror
 

The lights flash on the mirror when locking/unlocking the doors with the remote. I rarely, if ever locked/unlocked the car with the key, so I'm not sure what the lights do then.

oops:D

better but not sure if it's fixed???
 

this problem seems to have gone away (low voltage from a bad battery about to fail???) however now my speedo seems to have stopped working causing the ABS light to come on....

I'm wondering about some type of relay or switch that is about to fail.....

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated...

Mark

Since nobody brought it up, the lights on the rearview mirror light individually when locking (red) or unlocking (green) with the infrared remote. When you see alternating red and green flash, it means that the start lock-out is active, so I would guess that your '96 is equipped with this.

If not, the original price sticker will have a start lock-out credit of about $450, but even if it lacked the lock-out from the factory, it could have been added with a change in some electronic components.

To activate the start lock-out, simply lock the car from the outside, with either lock cylinder or with the infrared remote. To deactivate it, unlock the car from the outside.

Your low battery was probably confusing the system.

About the speedometer and ABS, if it isn't related to the battery change, it may be a dirty or bad wheel sensor. I'm not sure which sensors are used for the speedometer, but the rear wheel speed is not indicated on mine, as evidenced by driving the car in the snow (it IS possible).

red and green lights are back
 

Car started fine a number of times but now it is back to not starting and the red and green lights are flashing so it thinks it should be locking out the starting process.

Something I just noticed is that when the car actually starts the check engine light will come on with the glow plug light and when the engine starts the check engine light will go off. However, when the car is not starting the glow plug light will come on when the key is turned but NOT the check engine light. when this happens the green and red lights flash and the car doesn't start. however when the check engine light comes on with the glow plug light the car will start.

any thoughts?????

Try unlocking with the truck cylinder. The switch or wiring at the driver door cylinder may be flaky.

Truck meaning trunk.

I'm wondering about the OVP relay. ABS light is also indigative of Over voltage protection Relay failure.

But get the locking sequence figured out first.

Still intermittant starting
 

I took apart the drivers door panel and checked for loose connections etc all looks fine. In addition, once the car is open it may or may not start but if it does not start on the first try it might start on the second or third without locking or unlocking the door infact I stay in the car.

Are there any thoughs on OVP and what I might test.

Masrk

I suspect the OVP relay becaause if it is shot then the car will not run properly and other electrical gizmoes like the locking system may also fail. On my car the OVP is located behind the battery. Remove the plastic wall behind the battery and you will see a little aluminum tower with a clear plastic top. It will have one or two fuses under the plastic cap. The fuses may not be blown but the relay can still be bad. Given the milage of your car... its time for the relay to go Kaput.

Fuel pump relay replacement
 

I just ran across this thread. I hope you have already fixed the issue.

I had this exact same problem with my wifes 96 E300D. It also would just die when driving down the street. It might take 3-4 attempts before it would start again.

It was a fuel relay, actually, 6 relays. They all come together as a board in the computer. I unfortunately do not have the part number for you, I can't find the original receipt. If I remember it was something $600-$700.

If you haven't fixed it, I hope this helps.

sounds like possible voltage control module. it is like an ovp but in module form. it's usually located in the module box or in/near fuse panel

You're talking about the K40 relay module. It's in the module box, which is on the right side of the car, and not near the fusebox.

I believe Slim is talking about the N10-1 module, in the same box.

K40, K40, K40...

I agree. This part should probably be changed as a prophalyctic every ten years, judging by the posts you find if you do a search.

Or (hopefully) opened up and resoldered. There are times when your engine quitting simply won't do at all.