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Old 01-19-2006, 01:16 AM
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"Anti-lock" warning lamp illuminated - checking system?

My "anti-lock" warning lamp is illuminating on my car (1985 380SE sedan) and I am wondering if (and how) a MB dealer, or an independent MB dealer checks the system.

Here is what happens. When I first leave, my driveway goes down a slight hill/curve and I have to depress the brakes. At that time, I can feel a further down movement in the brake pedal, as if the ABS is activating, then shortly the "anti-lock" light is on. Sometimes if I am in town and on the level, the ABS does not illuminate for a while (sometimes), but most always the first time I depress the brakes (when going forward), after I start the car, I can feel the brake pedal make some funny moves, but then it never does it again.

I have been told it was probably a sensor, but before I shell out $141 for a sensor, I would like to be sure. Can they tell which sensor it is, if it is indeed the sensor/sensors?

Also - I am about to change out the rear brake pads. I keep hearing something about "brake bleeder". What do we need to do and where can I get one of these? Any local parts store? I am confused as to why this is needed, as we have never used it before on any other of our American or Japanese cars in the past when we changed the brake pads.

Thanks in advance!

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Old 01-19-2006, 08:16 AM
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What you are describing IS a bad sensor... They can be checked with OHM meter...simple job... The 1986-89 cars did have ABS sensor problems & Bosch modified those sensors...added better stress reliefs.
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Old 01-19-2006, 09:20 AM
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I have the same problem with my ABS. If you don't care to spend the money, or don't care if the ABS works (the brakes will continue to function, however, as in 'fail safe'), and can live with the funny 'scrunch' at the pedal at low speeds, just pull the light out of the cluster and let it dangle behind in the dash. A piece of tape or rubber plugs the light hole. (I may get flamed for this, but I'm just not a fan of ABS, and an old car like mine has bigger priorities for my money).
You can change the rear pads without bleeding the system, in fact, no need to open it up at all, unless you want to crack the bleeder screw when pushing the piston back to make room for the new pads. It isn't necessary, but some like to avoid pushing the fluid back up the line into the master cylinder, against the normal seating of the seals.
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Old 01-19-2006, 02:51 PM
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Faulty senser figure out which one and replace.
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Old 01-20-2006, 12:16 AM
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Knowing my luck - all will be bad.

Should I buy a new one, or would I be safe getting one off of a crashed car? Maybe getting another faulty one, but worth a try? How difficult are they to change out?

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