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#1
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Tools for W126
Hi,
I have got a free weekend this week, so I have decided to perform my own little service on my 1989 300SE. I haven't done this before, but I am confident! I have the whole weekend to put right anything I mess up. I want to change the air filter, oil, oil filter and spark plugs. I just need to know what tools I need. Also, is it a bit of a challenge to change the plugs? Any tips appreciated. Thanks for all your help people.
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Oliver |
#2
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Air filter, 10mm wrench of any kind and fingers to release wire catches.
Oil filter, hands and rag to keep from burning hands. Drain oil and remove filter while hot, let the oil drain as long as practical, those last drops are the real sludge that you're trying to get out. Drain plug, 13MM wrench (I think, I have replaced my drain plug with a magnetic plug which is 14MM) Spark plugs, standard spark plug socket and various length 3/8" drive extensions and ratchet. These are about the easiest to replace spark plugs you will find on any car since a Chevy inline 6. Twist the spark plug boots until they are broken loose then pull. Do not pull on the wires themselves. Use silicone grease inside boots before replacing. You can get this spark plug boot release agent at the parts store when you get the plugs. Use Bosch plugs, don't use platinum, but copper core. Good luck, |
#3
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Thanks Larry, you have been a great help. I will post the results at the end of the week!
Thanks
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Oliver |
#4
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One more thing, the spark plug sockets come in different sizes in mm. Ranging from 10mm-14mm, what size do I need?
Also, I have seen this tool kit, will this work for the job? Contents: • 11 x 12 point sockets size: 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20 and 22mm • spark plug socket size: 14mm • reversible ratchet • 2 extension bars size: 125 and 250mm Thanks again, sorry for being dumb [Edited by Oliverp on 02-26-2001 at 10:07 AM]
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Oliver |
#5
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Oil filter tip
Oliver, Before you remove the filter, take a long thin phillips screwdriver and a hammer and drive the screwdriver down into the top of the filter about 2 inches with the hammer. Do it at a slight angle. This will drain the filter element so when you remove it, very little or no oil will come out, just don't turn it upside down otherwise oil will come out of the hole you made. Remove it straight out. Lube the new filter gasket with some clean oil and install.
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Regards, Aaron |
#6
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Thanks Aaron,
It's little tips like that that make the difference. I'm looking forward to doing the little service, it should be a challenge! Thanks again
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Oliver |
#7
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Hey, why not hit your power steering fluid and filter while you are there. All you need is a turkey baster, filter, and some ATF.
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#8
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Is it easy to replace the power steering stuff?
Thanks
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Oliver |
#9
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On my 380SE, you just unscrew the thumbscrew that holds the cover on, suck out enough fluid to get to the filter, lift the filter out, suck out the rest of the fluid, and then replace the filter and fill with ATF. You'll want to replace the cover gasket while you are there if it hasn't been touched in a while. Mine was cracked when I got to it the first time. You won't get all the fluid out, because it is still in the steering gear and lines. You might want to try sucking out the fluid a second time after the new stuff has had a chance to circulate around a bit and mix with the old dirty stuff. That way, you get a greater ratio of clean, fresh fluid in the entire system.
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#10
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If you're going to change the power steering fluid, you need to drain it at the box, and refill with power steering fluid, not ATF. You can get power steering fluid at the parts store, it's a little more expensive than ATF, but you don't use much. The latest ATF's have additives in them that are not good for the pump seal.
Good luck |
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