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  #1  
Old 02-05-2006, 04:40 PM
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Some serious transmission help ASAP!

after rewiring my ETAs I really thought that I can do anything so this morning, went under my SL600 and pulled out transmission pan, it was leaking from both pan and overload protection switch. Anyway i pulled out overload protection switch and this long cylinder, I replaced the o rings on overload pressure switch and the piston, but now I have two question, there is a spacer I dont know where this spacer goes and I forgot which way to put the pin inside the transmission. I am including couple of pictures so you can understand my dilemma.
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Last edited by stsintx; 02-05-2006 at 04:48 PM.
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  #2  
Old 02-05-2006, 04:58 PM
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Yea, it holds the pin in. The key to this is that the pin must engage the band and it won't do that unless it sticks straight out. You must apply viagra all over it.
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  #3  
Old 02-05-2006, 05:03 PM
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thanks steve, I was looking inside the housing with a mirror I guess old spacer crumbled by time because it wasnt in its place, I pulled the piston and the switch out and had to use magnet to pull the pin out if was just sitting there. Now I put the ring in its place and its holding the pin str8, I will make sure it goes in the band, wish me luck, in an hour I will let you know, either i will take a drive to a tranmission shop or a cruise in town.
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  #4  
Old 02-05-2006, 06:24 PM
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Viagra only works if you use Vaseline. Use cold Vaseline as glue to hold the band pin
In the B1 switch. The Vaseline will melt when hot.
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  #5  
Old 02-05-2006, 07:13 PM
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Oh yea, vasoline not viagra
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  #6  
Old 10-26-2007, 12:13 PM
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Been tracking down leaks from my 1991 500SL tranny and just had a new pan, gasket and oil fill, however its still leaking from my overload pressure switch.

A couple of questions :

1). Do I need a new pressure switch or can I just change the O-Rings and are they available from the dealer as spares?

2). Can I do this without too much fluid loss? Or do I have to drop the fluid, and dare I re-use it? a fill these days is $100

Thanks,

Richard
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1991 R129 500SL
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  #7  
Old 10-26-2007, 03:50 PM
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My switch was leaking internally - out between the plastic and the metal, so I had to replace the switch.

If your's is leaking between the switch and the housing, o-rings are readily available at the dealer.

Fluid loss is very minimal, if any at all.
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Old 10-26-2007, 03:52 PM
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Great, thanks for the information, doesn't sound like too bad a fix.

You don't remember how much it cost and have a part number do you?

Cheers,

Richard
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1991 R129 500SL
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2007, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrian63 View Post
My switch was leaking internally - out between the plastic and the metal, so I had to replace the switch.

If your's is leaking between the switch and the housing, o-rings are readily available at the dealer.

Fluid loss is very minimal, if any at all.
I am hoping to change the switch this weekend, however I am not sure how the switch relates to the extended 'plunger' that I can see in the photos on this thread.

If I unscrew the switch and pull it out, will all that mechanism and rod come out as well? And am I going to have problems putting it back into the tranny?

Thanks,

Richard
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1991 R129 500SL
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  #10  
Old 11-05-2007, 01:36 PM
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bump ! I really don't want to get into trouble doing this on my drive, anyone got any experience of this switch change?

Thanks,

Richard
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1991 R129 500SL
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  #11  
Old 11-06-2007, 01:20 PM
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Well, it's done, now lets see if there are any more leaks, fingers crossed there are not !

For anyone who follows and might want to change this switch, the following information will be of value.

1). You will hardly lose any fluid at all, just a few drops
2). There is a plunger and rod inside the transmission that will pull out with the switch, the rod on the end will 'wobble' and is only loosely attached with a plastic collar. This must be re-inserted into the transmission, and will need to be 'wiggled' to fit back into the transmission.
3). The knurled collar holding the electrical connector will probably be stuck, make sure as you undo it, you don't tear the rubber boot over the connections.
4). The switch itself is torqued in pretty tightly, you will have to swing on it a bit to remove the old one.

Other than these points, it's a piece of cake ;-)
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