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#1
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What is this Air Filter Do-hickey? Is it Stock?
I'm starting to realize I have all kinds of air filter problems on my '82 300 SD Turbo Diesel. After examining pics on the skinnerbox site (http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/Service/W123/w123CD2/Program/Engine/617/09-400.pdf), I can't seem to make out what I've got going on here.
1. First off, is the hose running from the top of the engine supposed to go to the top of the air filter case? Is this what is referred to as the "crankcase breather tube?" The reason I ask is that the pics from the skinnerbox site show it going from the engine to a different area (not the top of the air filter). 2. I opened the air filter case and there is no air filter. Great There is however a good bit of oil inside. I am hoping this is because the rubber elbow leading to the top of the air filter tore and oil managed to work its way into the case. Oil in the air filter is typically a bad sign right? 3. My oil filter case isn't secured. The rubber mounts with screws stemming in each direction seem to have melted and one of the fasteners fell off. I assume this is something I can replace at most auto parts stores? Here are some pics: |
#2
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Well, the first thing I would do is immediately put an air filter in there. The tubing going from the valve cover to the air filter looks rather homemade.
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Ali Al-Chalabi 2001 CLK55 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel 2002 Harley-Davidson Fatboy Merlin Extralight w/ Campy Record |
#3
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A.F. and mounts
Ali is right, first thing is to get an air filter in the case (six months ago)[without the filter the baby is sucking grit down the pipe!]
2. is to replace the air filter housing mounts. 64a. The "crankcase ventilation" scenario of these engines will always SUCK oily vapors AND oil from the top of the valve cover and deposit them in the air cleaner housing...allgegedly the oil/vapors will exit the air cleaner housing VIA the return line underneath (to the crankcase)...ALL dependant upon "Blow By" [excessive crankcase pressure][show me a "turbo'ed engine without "Excessive Crankcase Pressure" + it'll only have 30 miles on it] Last edited by compress ignite; 02-08-2006 at 12:21 AM. |
#4
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Hickeys are ususally a sign of passion and romance. Maybe the o'le girl has a boy friend. It would also explain her discheveled appearancee.
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Earl 1993 190E 2.3 2000 Toyota 4x4 Tundra |
#5
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The tube is routed correctly. From the valve cover to the air cleaner.
Other models have other routes, for instance one of my cars goes from valve cover to intake manifold, but same purpose. Yours is better. Three ten mm nuts hold the air cleaner housing onto the intake manifold. Remove them (if these are the melted things you mentioned, replace those rubber mounts with dealer supplied parts). Underneath the air cleaner housing you might have a tube that goes down to the oil pan. It is supposed to have a one way valve allowing oil to flow into the pan. Other threads describe that this valve can go bad. I do not have any experience with this. This replacement tube is also designed to help minimize oil in filter: http://www.**************.com/store/item.php?item=Turbo%20Diesel%20Breather%20Upgrade Take it apart, get it cleaned out. And like the others said, get that air filter in there.
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
#6
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there is no reason
the homemade hose wont work unless it is too tall and hits the hood. be careful when you replace the rubber mounts cause this will lift the houseing and it might hit the hood.
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#7
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1. Yes get a filter.
2. Replace the valve cover to filter hose with the correct one. 3. Get 3 new mounts http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1Q90NZH5R1Q90NZX5O&year=1982&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=B&part=Air+Cleaner+Mount And heat shields to protect them. http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1Q90NZH5R1Q90NZX5O&year=1982&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=B&part=Mount+Heat+Shield 4. While you have the filter out replace the oil separator drain tube Orings. Call Phil for those, there are 2 one at the top of the drain tube and one at the bottom. I find it easier to remove the air filter by open it up, remove the filter, unbolt the 3 nuts in the bottom of the filter housing, then unclamp the U shaped duct (It goes from the filter housing to the turbo) at the turbo. Check the large flat Oring seals in the large U duct. 5. Check the air filter mount to make sure it is not cracked, If it is, either weld it or replace it. http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1Q90NZH5R1Q90NZX5O&year=1982&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=B&part=Air+Cleaner+Bracket Once the filter housing is done you will probably get some oil in the filter but only inside the filter ( filtered air side) not on the outside ( fresh air side). This is common. If it is excessive then post the problem, there are quite a few things to look at. Other things I notice. Oil filler cap is bad, get a new one, it helps keep the engine clean. Valve cover gasket leaking, consider a valve adjustment and new gasket. Clean the engine, I use an engine degreaser and fresh water, the water will not hurt the engine ( As long as cool, not on a hot engine). I will use my high pressure washer on the engine. And of course keep reading here and you will figure out all sorts of things to do to the car. Dave
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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990 1980 240D, owned 1990-1992 1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993 1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004 1999 E300, owned 1999-2003 1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD 1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995 1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons) 1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004 2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver 1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold) 2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car |
#8
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and be careful
around electrical things when washing engine.
tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#9
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Quote:
It doesn't look fully tight to me. Also you can just replace the lil seal on it to retain the metal oil cap too...
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#10
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To me, the tube looks like it is mounted backwards. The L shaped piece gets clamped onto the valve cover - a curved piece of plastic tubing goes from there to the longer rubber piece. The longer rubber piece snaps over the part of the oil seperator that sticks through the airfilter cover.
I found a pic, and attached it.
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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D Last edited by Larry Delor; 02-09-2006 at 09:07 PM. Reason: added pic |
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