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Yes, you can get a REALLY nice car for not a lot of money these days. Wish I had a bigger garage. Of course, the wife would look like this,,,,:eek:
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KBB comes up with approx. $7800.00. I realize this sort of evaluation is subjective; nonetheless, quite a spread from $7800 to the $4900 & change seen at the 1st URL in the initiating thread above. If KBB claims that a primo '91 420-SEL could go for $7800 on a car lot, one would have to wonder just HOW MUCH of a 420-SEL you'd get for 3K? My guess is you'd spend the "spread" and then some getting it up to par. While I agree the 126 series is one of the best ever made, they are old and irregardless of maintanence performed over time, are going to likely become cash pits for the buyer. Most all old cars do that eventually. If you can do 90% of the work that will likely need to be done, you may do OK for yourself. Just my 2 cents. |
Well I do everything myself except for an engine or trans rebuild and body work. Plus I know the W126 up and down and inside out. I can evaluate a used one and come up with a to do list pretty quick.
I really don't care what the blue book says about MB's. They are either way over like diesel W126's are way under like these cars, or W140's. My friend paid $11,500 for a W140 with a blue book value of $21k. In todays market that is considered only a "fair" price not a deal by any measure. I see nice W126's languish on local lots for months on end. So I find one with $6k on the windsheild that is in good shape. Offer $3k since it has been sitting for 6 months and has a few issues. Ignore certain things like AC because its a winter car, don't need that.:cool: I bet I can get 4 years out of one with $1k in parts after the purchase and for a couple grand a year after that. So $4k up front figure $1,500ish a year for parts, that would be $10k. After 4 years what would it be worth maybe $3k? So $7k lost. vs buying a $17k W140 with $5k down and a $12k 4 year note. hmmm interesting.... |
Be prepared for front end work, all of it. Then thre is the timing chain issue. Pass on one if you can't do the work yourself.
That is a nice 560SEL though. (I can do the work). :) |
shoot, I paid $1500 for my 86 420SEL...170K, rust under both front marker lamps on the fenders, front end needs attention and it has a power steering fluid leak. It runs like a scalded dog and the day I brought it home one of my boys said "dad, you bought a limo!"
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I have often been misslead by KBB pricing. the better indicator (no surprise here) is the actual market value. In other words what are these cars actually selling for in a particular market place. I check out the internet (with my zip code) and hardcopy ads and call to see if they actually sold. I bought my excellent condition '82 300D over KBB estimates because that's what they were going for at the time. i sold a few early and mid 90s BMW s and had to price below book value to get them to sprout wings and move them out. I'm not really sure how KBB bases prices, it would be sad if they simply use some sort of formula with new cost, age, etc variables and little consideration on imperical data. Maybe someone else has some insight on this.
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I deal with insurance companies in settling total losses. Some companies use NADA blue book values, others do actual market surveys. In the case of passenger cars, my experience is that "book" retail is FAR above actual street price. Example, 1999 Audi A8, 99xxx miles. The NADA value is roughly $21K, local cars on the ground are fetching $12-13K ASKING price at local dealers. Take prices are likely 10% below that, so this is one that's running 50% below book. We have this Audi at my shop, with about $10K in damage, the seller wants $6K for the car, as it sits. If it was really worth book, it would make sense to buy it, with the local market as weak as it is, there's no point in getting involved.
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