Correct...
Only one on your car, it is electrical, in the trunk, for the central locking system.

This can not effect your GASOLINE engine...

The post you where asking about is for DIESEL engines, as was my answer.

Thats good news. Thanks

Tires For w126
 

What i noticed when was looking to buy a car every owner states that they just put new brakes , tires almost new ..... im laughing now , after i almost got killed when after getting my insurance was going to the get registration for the car ....i was crossing the draw bridge -metal grid in the middle....
second after my rear tires hot the grid i was thrown on the opposite lane went over the devidnig curb and had the incoming traffic 20 feet from me, no theres was no adrenaline rush no crazy heart beat like 300 bpm it all came after,
after i started counterstearing and managed to get back into my lane but thers was problem too ,almost hit car in second lane ....and it all happend a mile from courthouse ....
So the statement they make almost new tires is nothing but a ....( if rubber has cracs in it ,change it right away dont test your destiny )
I went for the michelin hydroedge , $90 a tire total came out $400 ,
and WOW :
1.you can barely hear the road all you hear i engine running
2.wet weather, puddles....no differance between regular sunny day...
I know some people recomend Continental if you have a tight budget but Michelin Hydroedge is #1 if you can choose...

Bump
 

Got to get new set of fuses...
:D

Have to figure out what kind now
:confused:

If you find that the dome light and headlight buzzer don't work when you open the driver's door, but the dome light and puddle lights do work when the passenger door was opened: Check for shorts on the puddle lights. From the driver's door switch these lights get driven through a small trace in the buzzer relay, mounted on the same bracket as the cruise control amp. On my car one of the lights had come loose, smahed when the door was shut on it, and then shorted out. This blew up the trace inside the buzzer relay. Good news is you can repair it with some wire.

-Jason

Anyone know why my w126 literally poured rain water into my rear driverside footwell (from behind the pedal) when it was parked on a slight upward incline?

Gas 126s

* If you are noticing fuel odor, replace the gas cap and the filler neck seal.
* No/Low heat - Check the monovalve solenoid diaphragm for tears
* If the odometer is slow or not working and the speedometer is ok, you probably need a 12 tooth gear for the odometer.
* If you pull your instrument cluster for any reason, go ahead and replace the bulbs for the low fuel and high beams indicators.
* If the HVAC suddenly quits, there is a large strip fuse located in a separate holder near the main fusebox.
* The oil level sender on the oil pan has an O-ring which will harden and slowly leak oil.
* The valve cover on M103 has a breather port with a tiny hole in it which often gets plugged. You can poke it clear with a paper clip. It's the breather port near the center of the cover.
* Replace all the rubber air hoses under the air cleaner, and the vacuum fittings
* If the bearing in your smog pump starts to squeal, get ready to replace the bearings soon.
* Disappearing ATF can be either the cooler lines, or the diaphragm in the shift modulator.
* Replace the rear sway bar links if you hear clunking in the rear.
* Get tint or garage the car if you want to keep your leather soft.
* Big bass boxes in the trunk can rattle loose the taillight lenses and also messes with the fuel level sender. The low fuel light can actually flash to the music at times. No failure yet, but I'm sure it's possible if not likely.
* Don't move the front seats if you have the center console open for repair. It can catch and tear the seat.
* These airbags are no joke. They are as loud as a 12GA shotgun. Be careful working near them.
* COPPER CORE NON-RESISTOR PLUGS ONLY
* Replace the antenna seal if it shows any signs of age. Cheap insurance.
* Temp sensors should be replaced if they are older than 10 years - just cuz.
* If your ignition lock starts getting flakey, replace it BEFORE it quits completely. You will be screwed if it won't turn to position 1.
* Don't use armor-all. Get the MB Cockpit Care. Worth every penny.
* Keep your sunroof guides and your power antenna lubed with silicones.
* Periodically inspect under the rear window for ANY signs of water or rust. The rear window sill can rust away to nothing from underneath and it's hard to notice until it's too late.

I'm sure I can think of more. I'll post back.


-tp

The seal can leak with out major rust, mine did. There were just a few BB sized bubbles starting to form.

Any idea if this recall is still in effect? My light stays on unless I pull the pedal up with my toe several times. I would like to avoid adding a door spring under the dash if I can, especially if MB will fix it. :D

If you can catch it early enough, fit a shaved down copper washer (as a spacer/shim) under the smog pump clutch. It is an electromagnet actuated clutch and mine dragged on the pulley until it was too late to save the bearing, grease got cooked out from the excessive heat. A wee bit noisier when it kicks in and out now (louder click) but no more clutch dragging on the freewheeling pulley.

While I'm here, help please. After searching here, I still can't locate the fuel pump relay. General area I found to look was behind and to the right of the battery. The only thing there is the fault code/reset box. This is a '91 300SE that has been down for a year but was started and run to operating temp regularly. It was running fine until the other day when I left the key on while dealing with a sunroof issue, now no noise from the fuel pump. It will spin over just fine but with no fuel getting up front........

Good tip on the smog pump.


As to your fuel pump issue, first check with a meter to make sure that you've got voltage to the pump when ignition is in the ON position.

Then, there's a terminal you can jump with a wire (I forget offhand, but it's posted here many times) to force the pump on. Then you can narrow down between bad fuel computer and bad fuel pump. I think the fuel pump relay is integrated into the fuel computer (EZL?) on these later 300SE models.

Thanks for the reply panzer, where is the fuel computer located, I read on here somewhere about the "MAS" box on the firewall near the brake master and that if having to use lower octane fuel (foreign country) to turn the knob on top of it. I'll check for "fire on the wire" at the pump in the next day or so. It's probably been said many times before that IF there was a manual with pictures.........

Thanks again

Can anyone out there send me a link or exactly how to tighten the fan Belt on
my w 126 1991 300 SE 6 cylinder 4 door ?
I can not find anything on here,

jerri2222@aol.com
Thanks in advance

if your power steering is groaning,and you have fluid.It just might be your idler arm bushing

It's pretty easy jerri, loosen the bolt (16 in lower left of diagram, I think it's an 18mm right there at the PS pulley), look for the pointer (13) on the tensioner, it will be toward the drivers side with no tension, turn the "barrel nut" on the adjuster until the pointer is toward the passenger side (see pic), re tighten bolt 16. If you are replacing the adjuster you will need to lube the threads, I used "never seize" paste as these threads have a LOT of force on them. I have a couple of pics that are too large to post on here, check your e-mail for them