NEVER put a torch to brake lines - whether there's brake fluid there or not. Brake lines are made from a product called bundy tubing, which is basically spiral-wrapped steel held together with braze material. If you heat this tubing, you'll run into a condition called "liquid metal embrittlement", which will lead to a dangerous situation. Even most metallurgists don't know this rare phenomenon.

Tom, most of the wrenching I do in my garage has to do with corrosion issues from the salt here. After living here my whole life, I got pretty good at replacing brake lines.

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95 E320 Cabriolet, 159K

that info about the metal construction and the potential damage from heat is very good info to have.

thanks

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

thankyou for the warning


lots of PB and a wrench it is.

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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)

The tap did it, the lead-in thread was messed up. Although the tap itself ran me $20, which is a lot more than the 90 would of cost.

one side down (it looks SO clean now) one to go.




I'm changing the rear diff fluid also, anything else I sould do whaile I'm down their?

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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)