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  #1  
Old 03-10-2006, 04:46 PM
Rob MechEngineer
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 11
722.351

You all responded so well to my last post and helped pinpoint the problem.
Here is my second issue with my newly purchased 1990 300SE (Das Boat):
I am planning to rebuild my transmission.
It will not work in reverse and while I have the trans out I will do a rebuild of the other friction surfaces, o rings, etc.
It’s a 722.351 with 212k miles - what rebuild kit do you recommend?
What additional parts should I replace?
Does the torque converter need replacing?
Any acutators/valves?
Thanks in advance,
Rob

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  #2  
Old 03-10-2006, 06:23 PM
Mike Murrell's Avatar
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Posts: 2,580
Can't provide a detailed parts list, but this manual might come in handy:

http://www.atsg.biz/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=EIMP83-7224TM&pricecode=&reference=/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi%3Fsearch%3Daction%26keywords%3Dall%26searchstart%3D0%26template%3DTemplates/SearchResult.html%26category%3DEIMP%26pricecode%3D
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1991 300-SEL - Model 126
M103 - SOHC
"Fräulein"
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  #3  
Old 03-11-2006, 09:26 PM
Rob MechEngineer
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 11
Thanks Mike - I did purchase a manual and it goes through complete teardown. I was hoping to hear some opinions on key parts to replace from the group.
Thanks,
Rob
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  #4  
Old 03-12-2006, 04:14 AM
Fourings's Avatar
It was her idea.
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Denver for now
Posts: 76
I'm almost done with doing a rebuild on my .354 trans due to reverse failure. I had to buy a rebuild kit, filter (doesn't come with kit?), B1 piston (updated self-adjusting version), B3 piston that was damaged when the retaining ring for it failed and all the little springs between the piston and retainer got loose and made mechanical soup. Had to buy a retainer and new springs as well. The B3 is what makes reverse engage it's clutches, hence my loss of that gear.
AFAIK all seals, gaskets, O-rings, and friction disks are included in rebuild kits. You may need a different length rod for your B2 piston, you may also need some different thickness "steels" for your reverse clutch setup. An indy shop may be willing to exchange your parts for the ones you need. If not, the parts aren't costly. I was lucky and found a shop that traded me parts for parts. You may need to make no changes at all. Worry about that stuff when you get to it.
I'm also replacing the rubber hoses that connect the steel trans fluid cooler lines at the front of the car. Both of mine are leaking.
It looks like I will need to replace the front driveshaft donut, and a couple of rubber exhaust hangers. None are really bad, but might as well do 'em while I'm in here.
You might have more, or less parts to replace, depending on whether anything came loose in your trans and damaged something else. You could have a problem with your B2 piston, depending on the age of the trans.
I'm speaking here from my own experience. This is the first time I've rebuilt a Benz tranny, but it won't be the last. Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in here in case I missed anything.


Tips:
You should also plan on rigging up some way to hold the transmission housing in a vertical position with the torque converter end pointing up. I used a couple pieces of angle-iron bolted to the bench with holes drilled so I could bolt the trans to them.
Using a round (as opposed to flat) prybar stuck into one of the holes for bolting the trans to the engine and a large socket will facilitate removing the B1 piston. There are a couple of springs behind that piston, so be careful. Getting it in with the same devices will be quite difficult by yourself.
You will need a depth guage, a straight edge, and measuring calipers.
Take notes while you are disassembling the trans.
When unhooking the cooler lines make sure you loosen the mounts for the lines and not just bend the cooler lines away from the trans or you will not have fun hooking those lines back up.
The driveshaft need not be removed. You will need two large wrenches (forgot what size) to loosen a gland nut at the front of the shaft which will allow the shaft to collapse and get out of your way.
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Fourings

84 Audi Coupe GT with Turbo engine, EFI (buh-bye CIS), Jamex seats, Koni's/H&R's, e-code lights. 210k and counting.
1992 Anthracite 400E, 161k, "Grey Ghost".
1986 VW Quantum Syncro, 192k, gone to the crusher in the sky.
1989 300TE 172k. (Was mine, now also Mom's car)
72 280SE 4.5 (Mom's car)
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  #5  
Old 03-13-2006, 09:13 PM
Rob MechEngineer
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 11
Fourings,
Thanks for the reply - I intend to replace all the items you suggested.
I have yet to do an automatic rebuild, and I am hoping for success not just to save $ but for the challenge of diving into it.
Much thanks for the info - I intend to post the process when I am done...
Rob

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