Hard lines: Rear brakes

[Monomer]

Upon redoing the rear breakes (new calipers, new rotors) I decided to change out the rubber hoses also.

The hard brake lines have a bit of rust on them, I thougt nothing of it. Coated both sides in PB, and tried to take the rubber hoses off. Here's where the problems start: The hard brake line (right at the connection) snapped when I tried to brake the connections apart.


So now I've got my can on jack stands (just as it has been for the past month) and no way of re-doing the hard lines (Just because I dont know how) and no way to get it to a shop.

any suggestions?

[Monomer]

I see a junction where the hardline uses a T.



does anyone have an "exploded view" of these type of connecters? it dosnt just want to unscrew - I must be doing something wrong.

[donbryce]

Nope, you're not doing anything wrong. Those fittings probably haven't been disturbed since the car left the factory and are extremely difficult to remove. First, you will need the correct metric size flare nut wrench to work on these.
If you're lucky, you can sometimes grip the T fitting with vice grips and use another pair of vice grips to unscrew the stubborn hard line if the wrench has rounded the fitting shoulders off.
You're likely going to need to remove the 'T' fitting from the car in order to unscrew the old line(s), with the fitting in a vice so you can work at it. This of course assumes that the in-line from the master cylinder fitting can be removed from the T fitting.
Worse case scenario is you'll have to cut off the line at the fitting (or further up toward the front), do a proper metric double flare (requires a flaring kit), and buy a junction fitting to go between the T and this point. You can buy new hard line in various lengths with fittings already on them and the flares done too at your local auto supply house.

[Monomer]

I noticed the line go's into a 90 connecter about a foot down the path.


Which is nice, because the local discount auto store has ready-made peices in that size.




I'll try hitting the 90 with a tourch.

[donbryce]

I wouldn't touch the brake lines or fittings with a torch! Very bad idea, and unnecessary. Anything that corroded should be replaced.

[t walgamuth]

flamable?

tom w

[Monomer]

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

flamable?

tom w

I'm pretty sure theres none in the line, and it wont be a direct flame.




I cant replace the entire system myself - I can do this 1 foot section and then take it to a shop...

[Monomer]

Is there a memo I missed?


The 90 fitting's threads seem to be messed up: or atleast the lead in thread is. Would running a tap (of the right size) into it work?




I've lost most hope in this car... It's been nothing but problems since I bought it.

[t walgamuth]

about the tap. there is not a lot of thread there. the t is also readily available. i think if the threads are bad i would change the t too. you should be able to unscrew the hard lines with care, the right tool and some pb blaster. i dont see any reason to change all the hard lines unless they are all leaking. they dont tend to rust all that badly. when changing the flex line you prob disturbed the hard line.

brake lines arent too difficult, but you have to be careful and take your time.

good luck

tom w

[Monomer]

everytime I try to undue a fitting, it always ends up breaking the hardline.


Seems the fitting will rust to the line and wont turn, unless it brings the hardline with it. If the line to the T breaks, then that hardline will need replacing - and that one go's directly to the master cylinder.

[t walgamuth]

i notice that you are in detroit.

salt in the winter there is more of a prblm than here, so it follows that you will struggle more. so if they break they break. and then you just have to go one at a time til you get all the bad ones gone. and maybe you will end up with all new. the lines arent that expensive, but it will take a good day to do them all.

tom w

[Monomer]

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

i notice that you are in detroit.

salt in the winter there is more of a prblm than here, so it follows that you will struggle more. so if they break they break. and then you just have to go one at a time til you get all the bad ones gone. and maybe you will end up with all new. the lines arent that expensive, but it will take a good day to do them all.

tom w

Thats the problem, time.


It's been right at the freezing point for the past couple weeks, and my body dosnt do all to well with cold weather...

[t walgamuth]

is at hand.

hang in there

tom w

[donbryce]

Not sure what kind of a drive you'd have to the nearest mechanic/garage, but if this is getting out of hand, you could pinch off the line with vise grips (pinch and fold over and pinch again) and limp over with front brakes only. Just before doing this, fill the resevoir and pump the pedal to fill the rear line. I'd only suggest this as a last resort, of course.

[Monomer]

Originally Posted by donbryce

Not sure what kind of a drive you'd have to the nearest mechanic/garage, but if this is getting out of hand, you could pinch off the line with vise grips (pinch and fold over and pinch again) and limp over with front brakes only. Just before doing this, fill the resevoir and pump the pedal to fill the rear line. I'd only suggest this as a last resort, of course.

Before doing the rear brakes, the car hardly had any brakes at all.



Brake pedel to the floor to stop the 3680lb beast. I doubt the rear brakes were doing anything beside dragging anyways.

The new calipers look excellent, They're the A-1 cardone rebuilds. I've never actually seen a caliper that new; clean. I should have looked at the condition of the front brakes before I order anything, I doubt the PO changed them (as he let the rears destroy themselves by over-extending the piston)