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#1
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Help with M103 flxm13 water pump removal
Hi,
So I purchased the Snap-On tool and it was great for removing the bolts from my water pump without moving or removing the tensioner or the power steering pump. The water pump is now free but I cannot get it past the tensioner adjuster rod bracket. I've tried a number of different angles, but I just don't see how the pump can come out. Is there some trick to "rolling" the pump out? Is there any way to move the adjuster rod/bracket without removing the tensioner and power steering pump? Also, I've already removed the first intake bolt, but that didn't help. Thanks! Gary |
#2
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You gotta take the tensioner out and loosen up the p/s.
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#3
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It sure looks that way to me, but I read a couple of archived posts claiming that the pump could be removed without removing the tensioner.
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#4
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I think I just loosen both...
just to get them in the "right position". It has been a while but, it was not that difficult...
Good luck!
__________________
J.H. '86 300E |
#5
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Quote:
as a professional mercedes tech i have never had to loosen the ps pump or remove the tensioner. the snap-on 13mm does it every time, unless the original allen bolts ar in it then i use a 1/4 inch set. |
#6
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Thanks
After loosening all the bolts and removing a couple, I was able to move tensioner bracket enough that the pump came out easily. Just to clarify, I was able to remove all four bolts without touching either the tensioner or the PS pump, but then I couldn't pull the pump out because of the adjuster bracket.
Thanks! Gary |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Geez you guys just want to make it hard. If ya pull out the tensioner you have loads of room. As a professional tech I can have it out of the way in 1 minute so I know it's not like it's difficult. Are you trying to avoid moving the tensioner b/c it might fail? Seems like time to replace it instead of making the job harder than it needs to be, to try to avoid it.
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#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Get the FLXM13 Snapon tool
Just finished the waterpump, a re-seal of the front top cover (behind the distributor), replaced noisy idler pulley, replaced dist-cap / rotor and plug leads. Also had the valve cover powder coated (to get rid of that pesky flaking paint) while I was at it.
The Snapon tool made all this relatively straight forward. Even minor tasks such as removing the 13mm bolt that holds the dip-stick shaft to the block. Car runs like a champ! 190e is now at 136k
__________________
Neil. 1991 190E 2.6 170k 1995 E320CA 57k 1999 Chevy Tahoe 98k 2000 R1150GS 45k 1983 300CD 178k - sold, but not forgotten |
#11
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ooo what color???!?!?!
__________________
2006 BMW M5 "Heidi" @ 109,000 miles 2005 MBZ C55 AMG "Lorelai" @ 165,000 miles 1991 MBZ 300E "Benzachino II" @ 165,000 miles 1990 MBZ 500SL "Shoshanna" @ 118,000 miles (On the hunt for a good used M103 engine as of 6/10/23, PM me if you have one to sell!) |
#12
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Quote:
Question: What is this Snap-On tool everyone is raving about? If it is a 13mm flex socket built right onto the extension, I bought the original MB tool about 30 years ago.
__________________
Auto Zentral Ltd. |
#13
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Quote:
Benzmac water pump Snap On FLX-13
__________________
Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" |
#14
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And you will have to take the tensioner out when it fails in two months. Any teck who works on Benz and does a Pro Job takes the tentioner out, inspecs replaces, and if the p/s pump is leaking reseals it. Cmon all, lets not do a Sears job and screw the customer, or ourselvs. By the way, did you remember to replace the o ring for the Bearing housing? Oh yeah, you would notice if you took the tentioner off
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#15
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What O-ring is this
Quote:
Thanks. |
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