W126-Rear Door Panel Removal-MB Service Task Number? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mike Murrell · #1 04-14-2006, 11:53 AM

Vehicle description below in signature.

Drivers side rear door window won't go up - stuck in down position. When I close door, I hear rattling in door and motor appears to be alive when button is pushed. From what I've read, a "sliding jaw" may be broken.

I have the MB 126 CD and have been thru Section 67 - Windows/Windshield, Section 72 - Doors; Section 68 - Instrument panels/interior components and every other part of the Chassis Body section and I cannot find anything that provides instructions on rear door panel removal/window regulator repair, etc.?

Could someone who's located this info point me at the specific MB service tasks numbers on the 126 CD?

I've read many posts here about this, but I'm not interested in pursuing the work until I have the MB instructions on the CD available to me.

Thanks for your time.

MikeTangas · #2 04-15-2006, 12:13 AM

MIke,

72-061 give some info on panel removal with lots of referals to other sections. 72-101 gives more info on panel removal. Don't know for sure if these show in the menu, I found them by looking through the indvidual pdf files (after determining 72 dealt with door panels.

67-415 covers rear window motor removal for the coupe. I did notice that several of these sections dealt with coupes but had the notation that "sedans are disassembled/ assembled analogously". I reckon that is fancy speak for pretty similar.

wbain5280 · #3 04-15-2006, 12:34 AM

To do this the proper way, you have to remove the window mechanism including the motor, replace the slider and pound the rivet a few hundred times with a hammer. A faster way is to use a clevis pin, a pin with several holes in it into which a keeper fits. Replace the plastic piece that rides in the channel and drill out the hole in the arm to fit the new pin. Cut the pin to a suitable length, grease the slider and enjoy.

I wrote something on this a couple of years ago so I'll look for it.

wbain5280 · #4 04-15-2006, 12:38 AM

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/tech-help/21393d1096993267-w126-rear-window-wont-go-up-mb_electric_window_fix.jpg

Another post:

DYI -Window regulator sliding jaws 420sel

Mike Murrell · #5 04-15-2006, 01:47 AM

Mike/Warren - thanks. Warren, I saw your clevis post last night.

Got the left rear door panel off. The glass is all the way down and in a rail under the bottom of the glass is a piece of a white bushing known by some as the "sliding jaw". It's seen in the photo below on the left.

The other photo is of what I'll call an arm that is connected to the regulator. In the photo you'll see the section of the regulator arm that the bushing "used" to connect to. It's reflected in the glass.

OK. The bushing appears to ride in the rail at the bottom of the glass as seen in the photo, but the arm piece that it connects to is now 15" - 16" above the base of the window rail.

I realize that I need to remove the regulator and hook up a new bushing/sliding jaw.

How do I get the window rail where the bushing rides in line to connect to the regulator arm?

Thanks for your time.

wbain5280 · #6 04-15-2006, 03:40 AM

The plastic slider broke, hence your problem, so you need to lower or raise the regulator arm with the rivet pin. Use the switch on the door and lower, or raise, the 'window' as you would normally do until the arm shows up in the hole in the door. Grind off the rounded off rivet with a Dremel tool, then drill out the hole so the clevis pin goes through the hole or turn the clevis pin on a lathe so it fits through the hole.

Insert the plastic slider, with new pin, into the lower runner. Manually move the window up or down so the pin and the hole line up.

You can also use a nut and bolt combo such as a stainless steel bolt and nylock nut. Your choice.

I used the clevis pin and turned it on a lathe because I have a small lathe and I wanted to use it. I think next time I'll use a nut and bolt.

BTW, you might want to get three extra plastic sliders that fit in the slider for the other windows when they break.

Don't forget the grease for the slider portion.

MikeTangas · #7 04-15-2006, 08:50 AM

If you opt to remove the motor/regulator be careful when you pull the last bolt. IIRC when I pulled mine to repair this (when resurrecting the 560) that arm seemed to spring downward. Could have been ugly if my fingers were in the way. I can't remember now if it sprung or swung as the final bolt came loose but I do remember it kind of caught me off guard.

I also cannot remember for the life of me how I managed to get it back together. I remember it took me awhile to figure it out though.

Mike Murrell · #8 04-15-2006, 10:28 AM

Warren/Mike:

Thanks again for your help. I'll use the switch on the console to raise/lower as the door switch is now off. Thanks for the warning about the wayward arm.

I presently envision this scenario.

- Lower arm with elect. control so that it is more or less inline with the slider part of the window(base of window).

-Remove regulator - looks like 1 bolt and a nut.

- Install needed bushings/whatever.

- At reassembly time, slide arm piece with new bushing into slider at window base, then try to reconnect regulator.

I have a feeling this is going to be a learn-as-you-go process.

Regards.

MikeTangas · #9 04-15-2006, 01:04 PM

I'm not sure but I think you'll have to plug in the door switch to operate the motor. I know I have to on the 108, just can't remember if it is the same for the 126.

Brian Carlton · #10 04-15-2006, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Murrell

- Install needed bushings/whatever.

You need to decide if you are going to use the OEM replacement rivet that comes with the plastic sliding piece, or, whether you are going to obtain your own clevis pin and cotter pin.

The OEM replacement rivet needs to be peened over to secure it to the arm. But, if you peen it with the plastic piece beneath the arm, you'll destroy the brand new plastic piece.

You will have to take the plastic piece apart (it's a snap together affair) so that the underside of the rivet is exposed and can sit on the anvil. You'll need some washers under the rivet head for this purpose.

Then, you can peen the rivet to the arm.

I think the approach of a clevis pin with a cotter pin would be a perfectly acceptable alternative and would allow an easy replacement, in the future, if the plastic piece ever fails again. You probably would not need to remove the regulator on a future failure.

Be a bit careful of a standard nut and bolt. You can't tighten the nut too tightly because the plastic piece needs to rotate. A shoulder bolt would be ideal for this purpose, but, you'll probably struggle to find the proper length and diameter.