Windows Inop '85 380SE (Have Searched)
 

I've searched on this, I'm aware of the problems with the switches, fuse, and the plastic sliding jaw, etc. inherent to the W126. My problem's a little different in that power is getting to the switches, as evidenced by their lighting up when the parking light is activated, however none of the windows work. Not a click or hint of trying to work, they're just... DEAD. I removed the console wood and noted that everything appears to be plugged in as it's supposed to be. Not sure if the sunroof is wired into the window circuit, but it works just fine. Also, dome and courtesy lights work fine, as does the rear window defogger (I think).

Any ideas?

Turn the key to the No. II position (run).

Open the fuse box and check for voltage on the "a" and "b" fuses. They are the two fuses at the far right side (passenger side) of the box. One in each row.

Report back.

Answer
 

Lighting is a separate circuit.

Here is a DIY that will help you with the theory of how you clean the switch.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/HazardSwitch








Have a great day.

You think all four switches went bad at the exact same moment.....requiring a cleaning??:confused:

Thanks for the help - I will try to check on these things tonight and will report back with results.

As for the switches, I don't think they are bad because all 4 of them are not working (simultaneously) and when I picked the car up the seller said he thought the windows were all working. I think he removed his custom stereo to return the stock Becker and that's where something went wrong, because he said he might have unplugged something during the process. So I think the suggestion to check voltage on the "A" and "B" fuses is most promising...

Again, I will check these and report back.

I just got an email back from the PO and he reminded me that the rear driver side door window motor is disconnected. It's sitting in the trunk as it needed the $7 plastic sliding jaw replaced and he never got around to it. Could this cause the other windows to not operate?

This is just a thought; I am still going to check the A & B voltages and report back. Just wanted to throw this out there...

No.;)

OK, I just checked with my meter. There is zero voltage reading across "A" and "B" with the key turned to the "run" position. Interestingly, it appears that these fuses are in series with one another? Strange...

Any ideas?

Not strange.

Check for power at fuse #7 with the key in the run position. Make sure the fuse is good. Check on both sides of the fuse.

Just checked - #7 has power.

Go into the fuse box.

Behind the two rows of fuses will be two rows of relays. The first row is closer to the front of the vehicle. The second row is behind the first row. There are three relays in each row.

Remove the center relay in the second row.

Remove one of the other relays next to it. Take a look at the relays. They should be identical. Confirm this before proceeding. Check overall configuration and number of pins.

Replace the middle relay in the second row with the other relay that you removed.

Put the key in position II (run) and check to see if the windows operate.

Report back.

I did as you described, and the windows worked!!!

Does this mean the relay was bad???

Excellent.

Change the relay and you're all done.

Help is what we do here.

Thank You!
Thank You!
Thank You!
Thank You!
Thank You!

One last thing - until I can get the relay replaced, can you tell me what the function of the other 5 relays is? I'd like to "swap" one temporarily until the new relay gets here. For instance I might swap out the "power seat" relay since I can adjust the seats once and don't need to keep moving them around. The thought here is that I prefer to have my windows working and sacrifice some other less-critical feature in the interim.

Any ideas?