98 E320 quits inexplicably
 

'98 E320 104K miles

The car will start and run normally for about 30 seconds, then quit as if the ignition switch had been turned off. No stumbling or sputtering, just dies. It will restart immediately (after turning the key obviously) and run normally for 30 seconds, then quit. Again, will restart then quit after about 30 sec. After 3-4 restarts, the quitting will cease and then the vehicle can be driven but I'm certainly not going to in this condition.

I changed the thermostat last week (OEM 87 degree) but I cannot imagine that has anything to do with it...

To add to the fun, the check engine light is not on.

Stumped,
-Mike

It could be the fuel pump relay. Do a search on this site on jumping out the relay with a jumper wire to verify it is bad. Pretty quick and simple test to rule out the relay.

At your suggestion (thank you for that, BTW), I did a quick search and found that the most likely culprits are fuel pump relay or crank position sensor.

Question: where is the fuel pump relay located?

Where's the fuel pump relay?
 

Can't help you there. 1998 seems like next year's model to me. I'm a mid 80's guy til I get a raise. Someone should pipe in to help you find it. My experience puts them behind the glove box, in the fuse box, or right next to the fuse box. Do a parts search on one of the web sites for a picture of it to help you ID it.

Anybody else have anything to add before I start to throw parts at it? :D

Fuel pump relay on that car is part of voltage supply module....the crank sensor on any V6 motor is a MORE likely cause of that problem.

Thanks DOC,
 

So you're saying that the voltage supply module is unlikely (not a high fail item)?

different parts listed...
 

Can anyone tell me which "reference sensor" my vehicle needs? There are two listed for the M112.941 engine at most MBZ online parts retailers with no further guidance:

1. up to 370998, and
2. from 30-370999

For a 1998 E320 4matic wagon

:confused:

That's the last digits of your vin. Check where it falls...

I would say is probably the crank sensor,I'm having almost the same problem,fuel pressure regulator went bad and I changed it then I left lights on so I had to change the battery,it was about 4 years so i got my money out of it then went to start the car and it started a couple of times and that was it so I checked the fuel pressure and the injectors and they were good so next I changed the cam sensor which is in the front by the pressure regulator and nothing so today after work I located the cranshaft reference sensor and took it off now I have to order a new one (I'm hoping that is the problem because I'm not getting any juice to injectors and I believe that the crank sensor sends the signal to the computer telling it what piston is at top dead center so it can fire the injector,

Thanks, the problem has stopped. The car starts normally and has been driven a few times with no abnormal symptoms. Just for grins I pulled the CPS today (to see which one I needed) and it *looks* fine (I know you can't diagnoe these things by visual examination :D ). It had some sort of goop that looked like anti-seize compound on it. I wiped it down and reinstalled it - car continues to run normally.

I have read other's experiences that this tends to be an intermittent problem -- next time it happens I'm not fooling around with it; I'm changing the sensor pronto. Only took me about 10 minutes today to find and remove it.

Thanks for everyone's help.

E320 Cps
 

Aviaator, (or any other DIY mechanic), I have a E320 98 sedan with a possible faulty crankshaft position sensor. Car stalls out and will not restart until it has sat for an hour or so. Where is it and how did you get to it, from underneath or above? Did you have to calibrate the part after installing. Would greatly appreciate a reply. Thanks!!!!!!!!