Rear Rotors.
 

Would it be wise to have the rotors turned in my 300TE?? The rear rotors squeak like a mofo, and I read that the only way to fix this is to have a new, flat rotor put in. I can have the old one machined down so it is flat, but I just want to make sure that this will work, and that it will not mess anything up.

Please let me know what you guys think.

The rotor itself isn't usually reponsible for the squeek. If they are warped or have worn too thin, it's best to replace them.

I used the stuff called Disc Brake Quiet. It worked wonders on the front pads and rotors on my car, however it did diddly squat for my rears (DAMN). I called the machine shop, and it costs 13.50 per rotor, and it takes a whole 15 minutes for both.


Still though, I am debating on whether or not this is a feesable option. Has anyone had this done?? Please let me know the results.

If the rotors are still within spec try another set of rear pads and put some brake paste on the back of them.

I would never consider turning rotors on these cars, they are pretty thin as it is. Besides MB brake rotors are cheap, rear rotors for my W126's can be had for $30 each. Don't mess around do the job right.

I know $27 sounds like alot of money for a few minutes work. There is a way around it. Plunk down $3000 to $4000 and buy one of the machines. Then you can do rotors in the convenience of your garage.:D

Should the machine shop do the work for free?

No, what I meant is that I can buy new ones for about $80.00 or machine down the ones that I currently have on my car for $27.00, and save myself a few bucks, and get it done today, instead of having to wait for the part to come.

I just wanted to make sure that it is OK to turn Mercedes rotors. I am perfectly happy with going either way (New rotors or turning existing ones), but I just wanted to save myself a lil bit of money by re-using something I already have.

MB's official line is don't turn the rotors.

Long as they are within spec you can, the problem is they are pretty thin and very often after turning they are not within spec.

I found that doesn't work too well compared with anti-sieze paste...
http://www.bikernet.com/news/images/PhotoID3032.jpg

There is nothing wrong with turning MB rotors, per se. The issue is that the min thickness of the rotor is preserved. Usually MB rotors are thin enough that once they are worn by a set of pads and then turned, they are close to or worn beyond min thickess. But, if the rotor has enough material left and can be turned and be enough above min thickess to run down another set of pads, then it is ok. I find that they can usually survive 2 sets of pads with no turning in between before they are worn to spec.

Damn, this would be pad change #3....


Does that antiseize paste work as a brake quieter???

If the pedal doesn't pulsate, the rotors are smooth, and there isn't much of a lip, I'd just throw a set of pads on. I've been round and round on this with a couple of other professional mechanics. They call me a pad slapper, but I have read bulletins from some of the major car mfgs who state that if the conditions I stated in the first statement are satisfactory, just install pads. As to squeaking brakes, that comes with the advent of disc brakes. MB sells teflon coated plates to install behind the pad, and most pads now come with them attached. They really work. A couple of other factors also affect brake noise. Low humidity seems to cause more squeal. Also people who start braking for a stop light in the middle of the block seem to have the most problems with noisy brakes. People who drive full throttle or full stop tend to have quieter brakes. As an example wet your finger and continue to circle the top of an empty wine glass with light pressure. Soon the glass will start to sing. Increase the pressure and you get no sound.