Replacing window sliding jaw
 

I'm using the bolt and nut solution to replace the sliding jaw (rear window) in my '88, 420 SEL. My question: after I attach the jaw to the regulator arm, how do I get the jaw into the window slot? I'm guessing I have to loosen the arm or am I just not getting the window and arm in the correct position? Obviously, I can put the jaw in the slot and then line up the arm with the bolt. Problem is, I then don't have access to the bolt head to secure it so I can tighten the nut.

I just performed this repair on my 126 car. I have no idea how anyone could use a "nut & bolt" approach. There's no room in the sliding area where the bushing goes for the bolt head and the bushing.

I went to Home Depot and bought a 2" long - 5/16" clevis pin. I cut the pins length so that 2 holes remained. I ran the pin thru the hole in the bushing, slid the bushing into the rail, affixed the arm to the end of the clevis pin, then secured with a cotter pin.

That works, too, but I used the rivet that came with the jaw and drilled about 1/16 hole near the end and put a cotter pin thru the hole. Regreased the rail and it works better than new.

I solved my problem by calling my friendly auto repair guy, five minutes from the house. He said bring it in, and he had it done in a few minutes minutes. No charge. He used an air driver on the locking nut and wedged a screw driver in the window channel behind the screw head. I cringed thinking he'd break the plastic sliding jaw but it didn't break and the screw is secure.

I looked at the clevis pins but thought they were too long, even cut off, but I didn't know how much clearence there is in the door panel as the window is run up.

The "bolt" I used is probably more accurately called a flat head screw with a slot.

I would really be interested in hearing from those who have used a bolt/screw and nut solution and how they actually assembled it and the jaw into the window channel. I suppose this will happen in my other windows sooner or later and I'd like to know to do it. I'll probably go the clevis pin or maybe drill the rivet and use a cotter pin.

Thanks for your responses.

what kind of grease did you use on the reinstallation? thanks.

I used Napa Sylglide...seems to be a good multi use grease for this type of thing and hinges, etc

Thanks Gary

I too have a 126 Body with a Slide Jaw that literally EXPLODED. I guess there is not way to use the existing rivot at the end of the Regulator arm? You have too drill it out? What length Bolt did you use?

I have attempted to fix this 2x and I am getting frustrated! Thanks...

Phil
1991 350SD

I have made this repair several times over the years on my 81 300SD. I always drilled out the old rivet, used a nut-socket-ball peen hammer-cold chisel, and flattened out the head of the new rivet. Then I took the arm to the door and slid the plastic slider in the metal guide. Worked fine.

I also had a 75 (I think) 450SEL and MB actually made the plastic slider so that it could be easily replaced. Not sure why they changed it later.

I am sorry, but I am still confused....I have no idea why MBZ would not make it so you can just order the dang Jaw, conect the rivet head some how and done...It really is a dumb design.

So, let me understand this. Drill out the rivet and replace it with what?

Timely Thread..

My kids enjoy putting the windows up and down in my wagon and now the passenger side window jaw is broken (There is a reason for that child lock). Where is the best place to get those jaws? The dealer or elswhere?

Thanks.

Why not support this site, where you get FREE do-it-yourself info? Click on "Buy Parts" above and purchase it from FastLane.

Indeed I shall. Until I read this and a second similar thread, I was searching on Window and not jaw. Not seeing a window bracket or something similar, I was assuming it was an MB part only. Revisiting my search lead to the "jaw" as noted below. Thanks for the prompt to check again.

Fastlane: Window Regulator Guide
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1642211