sockets-6 point or 12 point?
 

Which type is better, or does it depend on the size fastener to be loosened? I am planning on purchasing some new sockets, particularly a set for my new 1/2" drive ratchet and breaker bar, and I'm seeking advice from those more experienced than I am. Thanks.

They both have their places.

6 point will have more surface contact with your bolt's flat surfaces, meaning it grabs better. This is good. But, depending on the position of your bolt, and how many teeth in your wratchet, you may not be able to always get it over the bolt. Moreso with a breaker bar. you'll only have 6 positions where the socket wil fit, none of which may work with that long handle.
12 points will fit in way more positions, so are handy in tighter quarters. 12 points are also good to hammer over a stripped nut. Once it is hammered on securly, you can remove the stripped nut. Can't do that with 6 points. Hopefully, you dont have any crusty stripped nuts on your Benz, but you never know. I'd get both eventually, but if you only get 1 set, get the 12s, more versatile. But make sure you get the 6s later.
PS don't skimp on the wratchet. It's one of the most important tools in your box. If you can swing a Snap on, Mac, SK, Facom....it is well worth the $$$$. I hate Craftsman wratchets.....their sockets will do ok though. Until i can afford better ones :D

I agree totally the 6 points are better, when you need to use more muscle power, due to the contact surfaces.

richard28, I suggest buying both a set of each ... 6-point sockets are ideal for breaking loose tight bolts/nuts without worrying about rounding off the edges ... switch to the 12-point socket once the bolt/nut is loose and there is limited space to engage the bolt/nut.

And there are 12-point bolts! If you only have a six-point socket set, you're out of luck with one of those. You really need both.

Early on in my wrenching career I realized the only thing I'd be happy with is having 6-pt impact wrench sockets. I've never busted one and I'm still using the set I bought 30 years ago. The 12-pt sockets kept rounding off my bolts.

Are you a square
 

12 point sockets also work on square head bolts and square nuts. What? :confused: You don’t ever use square hardware? Never mind then. I think you should get the six sided sockets first. If you get a good ratchet, you won't have any trouble with tight spaces. Craftsman sockets are just fine. They are about the cheapest lifetime guarantee sockets you can get. Craftsman ratchets do kind of suck. The teeth aren't fine enough. It takes too many degrees to get the next bite. Also, make sure to get a swivel and a few extensions. Another thing you should get is those plastic socket set holders with the magnetic strip. They're good to have in your tool box to keep the sockets in order and if you want to take all the sockets over to the project they keep them together. They are a little pricy :greedy: but they're way better than the metal strips with a handle on the end. IMHO, that is. Good luck

Protect sockets
 

Has anyone heard of a company called protect sockets? I used to see advertising for them in Hemming Motor news . Are they any good? They have a plastic insert to protect against scratching and maring of painted and chrome bolts. I am do not know if they are 6 oor 12 point.are these worth purchasing, and were do I fine them?

Bob Geco

The average mechanic will never need a 12 point socket. (The only place I've ever even seen a 12 point fastener is on the connecting rods of a Volvo.)

And a 12 point socket is profoundly inferior to a 6 point socket when used on a 6 point fastener. It's like using a Torx bit in an Allen head: it'll work, as long as you don't have to apply too much torque. So why not just get the right tool for the job? As far as having more opportunities for socket positions: that's what your ratchet is for.

12 point sockets should be considered a specialty tool. I have a full compliment of 1/4", 3/8", & 1/2" sockets. Not one of them is 12 point -- I wouldn't stand for it.

If I ever need to remove a Volvo connecting rod, I'll go buy the appropriate 12 point socket (then it will likely never be used again for my lifetime.)

Just my 2 cents, arguably worth that.

Jeff Pierce

I just saw that the new Craftsman "Next Generation" ratchets have 60 teeth instead of the 36 teeth of the old style. I bet they're nice.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00933442000&vertical=TOOL&subcat=Ratchets&BV_SessionID=@@@@007135 8588.1149442922@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccgfaddhmgfehlgcegecegjdghldfom.0

I was checking Sears ratchets out last week, and decided not to buy because they use plastic buttons. Is there any plastic on a Mac, Snap-On or Matco tool?

And searching google it looks like Stanley tools purchesd Facom tools.

I want to buy ONE more excellent ratchet for working on my Benz ( I already have a nice Easco 3/8 swivel head, anyone know what ever happened to Easco, seems like such a great product and I never see them sold anywhere) what size should I buy another ratchet in, 3/8?

I also have a 1/2 breaker bar.

If I could only get one ratchet at a time, I would get a 3/8". Then I would get a 1/4", then a 1/2". I guess it all depends on what you are working on, what sockets you have, and what ratchet you really need. Do you only have one 3/8" ratchet and a 1/2" breaker bar? If you have a bunch of 1/2" sockets than you should get 1/2" ratchet.

Ratchets for automobile work
 

I have a snap-On dealer who I like . and I have purchased a new 3/8 rachet that has a feather that allows you to tilt the head and lock it in place. I just order a 1/4 inch ratchet same feathers.
I like to buy quality tools that will last. I have some sears wrenches but if I have to depend on a tool I rather dish out the monney now than be stuck and swearing at the job.
I know the sears special is for 3 ratches for $100.00 but I would rather buy snap-on and get one. You cannot go wrong and snap-on warrentys their tools just like sears. I have no problems with Snap-on tools.

Bob Geco

Unless you work in a shop, Snap-on is hard to buy, much less get replaced under warrantee.

I did buy a 1/2" opening 3/8" drive crows-foot from them after breaking a Craftsman. I needed to use that for 40 ft-lb of torque, and the Craftsman broke on the first job. A piece went flying across the garage, and I was quite glad that there wasn't a car (or part of me) in the way. I did get it replaced by Sears, but didn't use that one for that particular job.

It was a royal pain to buy the Snap-on part. I had to go to a shop and wait for the van to come. If you work at a shop where the van comes, they're very convienent. If you don't, it's very much the opposite. My time is much too valuable to wait for salesmen to show up.