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-   -   Should I buy a 300CE? (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/155018-should-i-buy-300ce.html)

smcpc 06-03-2006 10:10 PM

Should I buy a 300CE?
 
I'm looking at buying a 1990 300CE with 55K miles. The price is at retail, the car looks terrific inside and out. The downside is that it is abysmally slow from a standing start and almost dangerous with the air conditioning on. I've heard they are slow, but are they that bad or is there something wrong with the car. It is excellent in all other respects.

t walgamuth 06-03-2006 10:23 PM

that sounds like something is wrong with it.

i had a 1991 300e 2.6 which has a smaller engine than yours and though it was no tire burner on takeoff it would wind up and get there fine.

tom w

deanyel 06-03-2006 11:39 PM

I've heard several comments over the years that a 88-89 103 motor feels like it has more low end torque than the 90-92 104 motor, although the torque numbers are actually very similar. What this mean "the price is at retail"? An argument could be made that that was $5,000 or $15,000. I certainly wouldn't pay much for a car that you don't like the way it drives. You'd be better off with a 93-95 3.2 even if it had higher miles.

AustinsCE 06-03-2006 11:43 PM

They're pretty bad on takeoff. Also, it may or may not be starting in second? If you thought of and remedied that, they still require patience, try racing against something that it initially appears slower than, and pass them at around 60-75 mph and you kind of appreciate it... or not, but its definitely much stronger once its moving.

lee polowczuk 06-04-2006 12:58 AM

our 300e seems to have a bit more pep than the 300ce...both 89s

i would not call them slow by any means.... unless you compare it to a 1990 q45 that i owned before this... now that was a rocket...

the 124's are very competent.

glenmore 06-04-2006 02:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smcpc
I'm looking at buying a 1990 300CE with 55K miles. The price is at retail, the car looks terrific inside and out. The downside is that it is abysmally slow from a standing start and almost dangerous with the air conditioning on. I've heard they are slow, but are they that bad or is there something wrong with the car. It is excellent in all other respects.

That is a pretty accurate description of the car when you drive it modestly. You have 2nd gear start and the AC is a big drag. You can stomp on it though, like on a long freeway on ramp, and it will fly and there is plenty of power after you get up to speed. You can start in first gear but your time there is very brief. I've never tried stomping on it in 1st gear. I wouldn't pay an enormous amount of money for the car because of the 55k. A head gasket can go at any time. Mine went at 118k but there are plenty of stories of them going much sooner.

glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400

Ferdman 06-04-2006 11:03 AM

smcpc, I own three 300CE's (one 1992 and two 1991's) and don't consider them slow at all. The 1990 - 1992 300CE's have the 104 engine rated at 217HP. I suspect that replacing the Oxygen sensor will improve substantially the standing start performance. When the car is stopped at a traffic light or stop sign move the gear shift lever down to "2" momentarily and then back to "D' ... when you accelerate the transmission will start out in first gear instead of second gear which should make a noticeable difference. The 104 engines perform better at higher RPM's. You should check the condition of the spark plugs (recommend Bosch F8DC4), distributor cap, distributor rotor and ignition wires ... they may all need replacing due to their age ... all may be original parts. Also, change the fuel filter ... due to be changed every 60,000 miles. Your best bet is to have a PPI (pe-purchase inspection) done by a MB-trained tech and get a comprehensive evaluation of the car's mechanical and cosmetic condition. Be careful about buying a car that has had major body and paint work done. A complete set of service records is very valuable so you know how well the car has been maintained and what components have been replaced and when.

JCE 06-04-2006 11:40 AM

There are several threads in the archives about which year 124 cars were fastest, and what the differences were on a year-by-year basis in rear axlle ratio, weight, and transmission settings. ( example ) There are huge differences: For example, if you look under the 'CARS' tab at the top of the page, a review of the 300E says "The 1986 300E outperformed the 380 and 500 engined S-Class cars plus the contemporary Porsche 944 and IROC Z28 Camaro. A 300E is your best overall buy in a used Mercedes-Benz. Period. End of discussion." My 87 is a very quick car, and leaves my son's 93 E320 in the dust up to about 40, at which point he can accelerate away without any problems.

The downside is that it has such a stump puling rear axle that it pulls ~3500 rpm at 70 and gets 3-4 LESS mpg than my son's 93. So you can vary the performance a lot by choosing the model year.

smcpc 06-04-2006 12:22 PM

Should I buy a 300CE?
 
Thanks for all the comments, information and observations. Please keep them coming. I'd like to add to my original question. The dealer asking price is $5500. As I said it looks great - paint isn't perfect, interior is excellent. He admitted to it being damaged in an accident, but it has a real, not salvage title. If the repairs seem well done, is there any reason to be wary of the car? If Ferdman is correct about the work needed, what would a guess be as to cost of having that done. I'd like this car to be a daily driver, but, no not my only car and want to trust it for long trips. Is that realistic? By the way, my regular car is a WRX. I have to remember to turn off the air conditioning in it when starting from a stop - so I'm used to that slowness.

autozen 06-04-2006 12:54 PM

There is something wrong with that car. The M103s are pretty quick. If you guys want real speed you need something like my neighbors Trans Am which has been totally tricked out with special clutch, beefed differential, sticky rear slicks, tuned exhaust, and nitrous oxide ingection. He eats motor cycles. I have owned several M103s and still own a few and find them quite adequate for passing on two lane roads. Most of the time we drive my wife's 89 300CE. It is a beautiful car. I could buy a newer car, but why? It does everything I want it to do, and the beauty of the 89 is if the fuel pump relay craps out I toss in the one from the glove compartment. If that craps out, I use a paper clip to keep the car running to get back home. If the main computer craps out, I take it out and toss it in the trunk and complete my trip. You lose a computer in a 91 and newer and you're screwed.

I think the price of the car you are looking at is over priced though. I'd look around for a better one at a better price. You don't say where on the planet you are, but even in the S.F. Bay Area, that's way too much.

Ferdman 06-06-2006 02:00 PM

smcpc, $5,500 seems low to me for a 1990 300CE with only 55,000 miles. You better have a PPI done to determine the extent of the accident damage. If it has had structural damage I'd pass on that car ... if only cosmetic repairs and the repaint is top notch then you're getting a good deal. As for parts figure: Distributor cap - $89, Distributor rotor - $62, Ignition wires - $219 for Beru, Fuel filter - $24 and Oxygen sensor - $127. These prices are from an online supplier with free delivery and you doing the installation. If you're unable to do the work yourself check a local independent or local MB dealer for pricing ... be prepared for sticker shock. These cars are quite affordable if you do your own work.

dynalow 06-06-2006 05:33 PM

smpcp

Follow Ferdman's advice on the PPI.. a must do.. Also, I 'd do a carfax to see how many owners have shared (or skipped:rolleyes:) the maintenance! Cheap price for peace of mind.
Maybe you are getting the real deal, maybe not. Those odometers are easy to change or replace. They will break too! (Mine broke about a year ago. Had it replaced by an indy)
Did you check the appearance of the engine compartment? (Should still be reasonably clean.) Or the wheel wells ( should still have a good paint surface)? If the steering wheel is "soft" to the grip that may indicate more use than 55,000.

My 88 had a small leak in the head gasket, which was changed before I bought it (in 2001 w/41,000 miles).
The valve seals had to be replaced at 55,000 when it started guzzling oil (qt every 500 miles): $400.00. Problem solved. My guess is the seals dried out with time.

I am at 83,500 now after 4 1/2 years. I think the only other thing that's been replaced (other than tires) in that time is the flex coupling. Still has the original exhaust 18 years later.)

I don't think 5,500 is a bad price for the car, depending on how badly damaged and how well it was repaired & repainted. If I was going to sell mine, I'd ask about 7-8,000.

No,your'e not gonna keep up with that blonde honey in her mustang pulling away from a red light, but when you eventually pass her, you're riding in much more style.:D :D

All that said, your'e on the right track in looking for a 300ce IMO. Timeless looks and styling. A $55,000 car for $5,500. Such a bargain!;)

blueeagle289 06-07-2006 07:49 AM

My "new" 92 300CE
 
Just got this car in May (paid 9750) and love it!! It is in excellent condition overall and runs very well. It is not a line takeoff car, but is not supposed to be. It runs fine at higher speeds and will go like the devil if you tramp it at mid-speeds.

It is also a beautiful car (Black with Camel interior, sun roof and alloy wheels).
I like it so well, I am selling my 68 230S and my 89 420SEL to cut my fleet down to the 300CE, ML320 and Corvette ... five cars is just too many to keep track of ... Ben Carter

jeff (moose) 06-07-2006 11:33 AM

get out of the way!
 
I owned a 92 300CE and you must shift the car into 1st gear and then it will get out of it's own way if you turn off the A/C. I always liked the CE's looks but after looking for a whole Sportline or a Renntech or Brabus car, I settled for a bone stock 500E. 4 years later, a chip and a set of wheels and tires later I am still happy with the decision to INVEST in a 500E. I have never regretted it.

I took the 500E in the divorce and I would suggest that before buying a 300E that you should drive his big brother (500E E500) who is on steroids. Driving a 300CE and then a 500E will be culture shock. Not only will the 500E set you back in the seat at any speed it has balanced set of road manners that makes it happy at the race track or on a business lunch with the boss.

I would suggest a 500E to anyone who is not happy with having to catch up to a plastic car being driven by a plastic person in a plastic world. Blow 'em off the line and never see any view other than through the rear veiw mirror.

To steal someone else quote; to drive a 500E is "PERM-A-GRIN"

blueeagle289 06-08-2006 08:44 AM

Why we buy specific Mercedes models
 
It is interesting to read all the posts in our forum and obvious that we all have different tastes in cars and reasons for owning each one. I love my ML, think my 420SEL and 230S are great cars for driving fun, and really like my newest addition -- the 92 300CE. (If I want to beat almost anyone off the line, I can drive my Corvette of course) Normally, I like cars that are well made, drive well over the road and have reasonable power. The previous comments about the 300CE, compared to a 500E ... simply show that the specific owner wanted quick acceleration more than some other features. Of course the 500E is a nice car -- but does not have the style of the 300CE.
It is good that we can all drive what we want, for different very valid reasons.


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