well, not quite.....my 87 190D 2.5 N/A was recently converted to R134 and a replaced condenser, new CCU and a host of smaller items by a very good indy here in Denver. I simply didn't have the time and its getting HOT here! $2200 and 2 weeks later BOOM! My manifold hose on the pressure side gave out. I just got a quote for nearly EIGHT HUNDRED DOLLARS for a new manifold hose. Anyone have a better source for these? Any luck with a race shop etc. making a replacement? Gotta be SOMEONE with a better solution to the slightly higher pressure of R134 conversions.......Anyone? anyone?

slightly higher 134a pressure means the system is overcharged. this has got to be the number one mistake by diy's and pro's alike. 134a suffers from a bad reputation because most people who use it don't know what the hell they're doing. if you don't believe me read almost any ac thread or post on this site. very few of them are helpful and most are full of overblown opinions of people who are either inexperienced or just ignorant. i've worked on auto ac systems for 25 years and made the switch to 134a with no problems that weren't inherent to older systems as well. whoever charged you 2200 dollars to work on your system and now wants 800 bucks to replace a hose is a very talented individual, but his talent obviously has nothing to do with ac repair.

Yeah, i stopped reading half way thrugh, you spent 2,200 US $'s and changed it to 134???????????? Change it back to R12 after replacing the parts that failed.

I cannot believe that someone with many years experiance (in A/C) is supporting the idea of conversions to 134.

Ask ackits.com to provide you with a quote to rebuild the hose assuming no other damage and the fittings are in serviceable condition. It should be less than $200, probably a lot less.

If it was the original hose, no wonder it blew out. The original rubber was about 20 years old. The new lined hose material is recommended in any case for impermeability to R-134.

Got to wonder if the altitude of Denver places additional stress on flexible items like hoses and seals.

altitiude has nothing to do with it.

I just purchased a new a/c hose assembly for my 1987 300E for about $357 from www.***************, if this may help. Delivery in about 4 days UPS.

for the thoughtful input, it is much appriciated. The vast majority of folks make this site a truley valuable asset, and enjoyable to be a part of. Some folks think its better to opine about how much you paid and thereby maybe implying they sit a bit higher on the stool of life. The question was about A/C Manifold hoses. Not "Do you think I paid too much?" If ya REALLY NEED TO KNOW why I have $2200 in the system so far, I'll tell ya. I ASKED FOR IT! I told Mark @ Stu Ritter, a VERY good indy, to fix my A/C. The PO had fried a bunch of wiring due to a half-assed attempt to bypass EVERYTHING and hot wire the Compressor directly, 3 hours went to basically rewiring the system, the CCU fried, I ASKED FOR NEW and got it. Klima fried as well, not real cheap. Receiver/Drier, all new switches, PER MY REQUEST. New condenser due to massive leak. New Expansion vavle as well. Kinda see were this is goin? I wanted it to work, I OK'd EVERYTHING. Any more questions?........

Considering the different meanings of the word "stool", I think you did a very good job of making your point!

__________________
2012 E350 Bluetech

When addressed according to all "retrofit" instructions there is nothing wrong with using R-134 in place of R-12 for most, if not all automotive AC systems. A majority of technicians may be overlooking some of the more important details regarding the use of R-134 in place of R-12 because they strive to beat the clock.
In my professional oppinion R-134 works fine when it has been retrofitted properly

I have seen a couple of cars that had a massive problem due to mixing of the 12 and 134 oils. I think 134 is great, for a 134 car, and 12 is great for a 12 car. Have you ever seen or had to fix a contaminated system? I have, and I am a very firm believer to not mix the two up. It's not funt to fix and it becomes a hazard when you have to store the contaminated fluids. Thats my point I am tring to make on a retrofit.
GVB

I can't say that I have had the pleasure and I understand your point; however if the conversion is not performed to a certain standard-YES problems develop........IMHO overcharging a system falls into the lees than standard category.

When retrofitting R-12 to R-134 I have always followed the manufacturers written instructions (for good reason) and I have seen few failures when the instructions are followed to the T. Now contamination from mechanical failure and or the use of unusual refrigerant blends (the low cost alternative mixtures that only reek havoc in the automotive repair world-especially with recycling equipment) I will do several (6-10) of those in a year. As an extra precaution when I convert the AC system from R-12 to R-134 I always go a few steps further mainly because I am from the old school of AC repairs. I flush the condenser, the evaporator and all the lines as best as possible. When the flushing is complete I install a new expansion valve and a new receiver drier as well as new pressure switches (always). I also R&R the AC compressor-drain it and then refill it with the prescribed amount of oil (unless the comp is getting it's triennial replacement.

Regardless of what a vehicle is willing to pay for a repair their expectations for the repair to be performed well seem to always be much higher-meet and exceed their expectaions and charge accordingly simple as that

Ghetto!

__________________
1999 SL500
1969 280SE
2023 Ram 1500
2007 Tiara 3200

Now that takes talent and courage, talent to ghetto engineer the rig and then courage to be seen driving around town in it....

If someone is just determined to change it over to 134, new compressor, new drier, new expansion. Now after that cost, why not just fix the leak and use the reccomended 12???????????????????????????????????????????????
But I am glad to see you do more than a half ass job.