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LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#16
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Big thank you to skiier for this write-up! I replaced my door check today and was in and out in about 35 mins. No way I could have gotten the door panel off so eaily and without breaking any j-clips if not for this write-up and the attached pictures. Thanks again!
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1987 300d Turbo |
#17
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Very nice!
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2012 E350 2006 Callaway SC560 |
#18
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Thanks for the great door check replacement write-up. This should save me $75 for the hour of labor I can avoid.
Wow - my door check is broken exactly as yours is. I was wondering how the previous owner manhandled it but apparently these things happen. Am I to understand that aftermarket door checks do not come in the car's original colors? My 560SEL is anthracite gray metallic clearcoat so I assume I need to get some spray paint and paint the check prior to installation. |
#19
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Helpful supplement
Great instructions and great pictures! I've had my door panel off several times, and tonight had forgotten one step, which had me freakin out for about an hour. When reattaching the door handle to the cable, don't forget there is a cable end that has to be inserted into the back of the plastic handle frame. Here's the link that saved my a$$!
Interior Door Handle Problem - 1994 C280 Thanks again everybody. |
#20
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Great pics and writeup. I broke the plastic part on the map pocket that the bigger J clip in the middle attaches to, not sure how its going to go back together....
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1995 E300 diesel |
#21
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well it went back together OK and seems fine even with the broken bottom tab and also the mirror cover piece in the top corner has a broken tab. At least now my door handle is tight.
i also bent the metal clips that hold the center panel back into shape so they hold tight.
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1995 E300 diesel |
#22
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Great pics
I have removed my door panel but several of the black plastic J shaped clips were broken. Does anyone know where I can buy these?
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#23
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MB dealer. Give them your VIN and they'll show you drawing with all the parts.
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#24
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Before you remove the panel, looks like you need to remove the black trim piece around the door latch. Held in with one phillips screw.
This is a great write up. I think I need to remove my door panel to access my door lock switch. It is not arming/disarming the alarm nor is it opening/closing the windows when held in the unlock/lock position. Any advice on inspecting and testing this switch in appreciated. |
#25
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Does anyone have any suggestions for replacing the clips that hold the map pocket section to the door? When I removed the door panel it turns out all 3 are broken, the white parts were sitting inside the door and the black parts are all broken off - one is salvageable.
Has anyone had to do this before? Thanks, Luke |
#26
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Panel removal
Do you have to remove the panel to fix the
door lock.My key won't turn the lock on the driver's side?? |
#27
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Quote:
We can assume a MB of some sort.....vintage and Model are a guess. It may be possible to unbolt the door handle at the rearward edge of the door, and pull the handle out. Thus the answer would be "no". Give it a try.
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83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive) 84 300SD Daily driver 85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily. 98 E300D *sold 86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home. |
#28
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FYI, the thread he posted this to is a DIY that names the make and model in question...AFIK you do have to pull the door panel to get to the tumblers which may be "sticking".
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1991 300SL 71K miles young |
#29
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Data from your profile
Quote:
1995 E320 1986 MB 560sl 1999 Buick |
#30
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Bump for a good thread!
Any particular preference for the adhesive for the plastic film? I managed to get the film to more or less stay in place with the old adhesive, but, if I do another door (next weekend, probably ), I'll definitely want to glue it back on.
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1982 240D, sold 9/17/2008 1987 300D TurboW124.133 - 603.960, 722.317 - Smoke Silver Metallic / Medium Red (702/177), acquired 8/15/2009 262,715 and counting |
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