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94 w124 door panel removal, door check replacement, map pocket fix - DIY
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Door Panel Removal
I. Remove door catch trim (black - one phillips screw) and lock knob (unscrew) II. Remove mirror trim (see pics) 1. Gently pull/pry the top out 2. Lift the bottom up AND outIII. Remove courtsey light 1. Pry light out and disconnect the two plugsIV. Remove seat switch/door handle (pics) 1. Remove individual seat switches by pulling them out (here I pried them out with my fingers) 2. Gently pry out the black trim around the handle and seat switch (this is actually 2 pieces - see the pics the yellow arrow shows how they line up and attach) 2 (cont.) This is a slightly difficult step - you should start at the front of the door handle and pry the trim out, then move back towards the seat switch. The bottom left of the seat switch should be last, you must lift it up, then out (again, refer to the pics) 3. With the trim removed it should look like the last pic attached 4. Remove the two screws holding the seat switches in place 5. Remove the 8mm (10mm?) bolt holding the arm rest/handle on - covered by some foam in the pictureI also took pictures of the back of the items so that you can see the attachment points. |
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Door Panel Removal (Continued)
IV. Handle Removal (Cont.) 6. With the arm rest and seat switch out of the way you can remove the door release lever by prying it up (see pic) 7. Now slide the door handle left (towards the back of the car) then pull it out----WATER BREAK, GATHER COURAGE----(Trust me you'll need it) V. Panel Removal 1. Basically the panel is held on by inverted "J" clips so you just need to push it up and then pull it out 2. I found it quiet difficult to push it up because there are no good grip points - it can be done though, I used a fist to tap/pound up from the bottom of the panel and the bottom of the door handle.** I also used the arm rest handle to pull up - be careful. 3. With the panel off you can celebrate - the hardest part is over. Set it somewhere safe so that it won't get dirty/stepped on etc.**I ended up breaking two of the clips (just above the speaker) by pounding too hard on this region. I JB-Welded them back on for reinstallation and they worked fine. NOTE: It is a good time to tighten the wood trim (green circles) -- one of mine was loose but not rattling. |
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Map Pocket Removal and Fix
If you're like most w124 owners, the map pocket vinyl has peeled off. I found it easiest to fix with the pocket removed. I. Remove map pocket from door panel 1. Everything circled in yellow must come off (above pic) 2. Slide the large clip in the middle left and then pull it out the bottom. 3. Remove the white clips - pinch the exposed sides together with a good pliers then pull out. 4. Remove the two screws holding the speaker grille on 5. Finally, there is one plastic rivet that must be broken. If you look at the pictures you will see that I used a small wood screw and washer when reattaching this partII. Re-Glue the Vinyl 1. Get your blow dryer out to heat the material 2. Heat the material for ~10 seconds, then pull as much as you can over the lip and secure with a binder clip (pic) 3. I had a few inches secured with binder clips, then started at the beginning with the gluing. 4. Remove one clip at a time, heat the material again (~5 seconds) apply Super Glue Gel to the inner pocket, then strech the material over and reclip. (**Note: the metal clips can become quite hot) 6. After removing/gluing a few clips I would return to the part that I hadn't heated/stretched yet and repeat this processThe super glue dries relatively quickly (5 - 10 minutes) so I was able to get by with only 12 clips. You'll also see that I noted which clips had glue under them by folding down the inside part. |
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Door Check Replacement
My door check started making this terrible cracking noise whenever I would open up the door so I knew it was time for another one! p/n: 126 720 05 16 (Replaced by 126 720 00 16 OR 124 722 00 08 - however, when I called dealership they only had the first part number in their records/stock) I. Remove door panel (See above) II. Peel back the plastic sealant and/or felt sound deadening III. Remove the door check pin retaining clip and then the pin 1. I used a hammer and a punch to drive the pin out from the bottom with the door open all the way.IV. Remove the three 8mm (10mm?) retaining bolts (My door check was severly broken so that the two bolts in the door weren't holding anything) V. Reach into the inner-door and remove the check VI. Install the new check, I found it easiest to start the bolt on the interior side of the door then align and install the pin/retaining clip, then install the other two bolts. |
Looking forward to the door check info...thanks for the binder clip tip for the map pockets...that's next on my list of things to do...should've done it when i reupholstered the door panel (PO had those screw in fold down cupholders...how American)...
Fantastic job with everything...the clips and bottom bit of the door panel easily break after 10 or more years of heat and drying out...usually the mirror trim has a clip snap off... Thanks for the pics and the writeup. |
skiier, thanks for the writeup. I question if superglue (cyanoacrylate) is the best glue for this application. I'm not sure if it's a long-lasting glue. I'd suggest contact cement, but it wouldn't work with the method you proposed.
Also, if your resourceful (or cheap) enough, the check strap can be relubed if it's still basically healthy. Mount it in a vise and take it apart. A big caveat is that you're working with a strong spring under a lot of load, so there's a potential to hurt yourself by going this route. |
If you look at my check (in the pic) the wings (where the two bolts on the inside of the door secure) are actually broken off.
I used super glue gel as it was recommended in another door pocket thread posted here. I will definitely post back if I see peeling. |
This is a definite candidate for the DIY Wiki. Should go in there asap.
Rgds, Chris W. |
I'd be happy to write up an a file w/pics and description (html format?) for the DIY wiki if the moderator of the DIY wiki would like.
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So after a few months the map pocket is still holding GREAT! No peeling what so ever with teh super glue gel - even with some really hot days in Aug.
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Great post and thanks for posting the photos.:)
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Thanks!
That was just what I needed ! The seat switch on mine is stuck, and I couldn't figure out how to get the cover off to get at the switches. I was scared of breaking it.
The pictures and clear write up have restored my waning confidence. I was going to resort to alcohol, so thanks a lot! (I think!;) ) |
Nice
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7. Now slide the door handle left (towards the back of the car) then pull it out
I believe this is incorrect. The handle needs to be slid forward to remove. Step 4 of procedure 72-100 "Removal and installation of door lining..." says "disengage linkage on door handle, push door inside actuation forward and remove" I have included a picture of the door handle--note the orientation of the clips on the back side. Otherwise great "how to" article. I'm off to the hardware store for some super glue gel.... J. M. van Swaay |
This DIY article is now in the Wiki HERE.
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Big thank you to skiier for this write-up! I replaced my door check today and was in and out in about 35 mins. No way I could have gotten the door panel off so eaily and without breaking any j-clips if not for this write-up and the attached pictures. Thanks again!
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Very nice!
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Thanks for the great door check replacement write-up. This should save me $75 for the hour of labor I can avoid.
Wow - my door check is broken exactly as yours is. I was wondering how the previous owner manhandled it but apparently these things happen. Am I to understand that aftermarket door checks do not come in the car's original colors? My 560SEL is anthracite gray metallic clearcoat so I assume I need to get some spray paint and paint the check prior to installation. |
Helpful supplement
Great instructions and great pictures! I've had my door panel off several times, and tonight had forgotten one step, which had me freakin out for about an hour. When reattaching the door handle to the cable, don't forget there is a cable end that has to be inserted into the back of the plastic handle frame. Here's the link that saved my a$$!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/200588-interior-door-handle-problem-1994-c280.html?highlight=door+cable Thanks again everybody. |
Great pics and writeup. I broke the plastic part on the map pocket that the bigger J clip in the middle attaches to, not sure how its going to go back together.... :(
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well it went back together OK and seems fine even with the broken bottom tab and also the mirror cover piece in the top corner has a broken tab. At least now my door handle is tight.
i also bent the metal clips that hold the center panel back into shape so they hold tight. |
Great pics
I have removed my door panel but several of the black plastic J shaped clips were broken. Does anyone know where I can buy these?
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MB dealer. Give them your VIN and they'll show you drawing with all the parts.
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Before you remove the panel, looks like you need to remove the black trim piece around the door latch. Held in with one phillips screw.
This is a great write up. I think I need to remove my door panel to access my door lock switch. It is not arming/disarming the alarm nor is it opening/closing the windows when held in the unlock/lock position. Any advice on inspecting and testing this switch in appreciated. |
Does anyone have any suggestions for replacing the clips that hold the map pocket section to the door? When I removed the door panel it turns out all 3 are broken, the white parts were sitting inside the door and the black parts are all broken off - one is salvageable.
Has anyone had to do this before? Thanks, Luke |
Panel removal
Do you have to remove the panel to fix the
door lock.My key won't turn the lock on the driver's side?? |
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We can assume a MB of some sort.....vintage and Model are a guess. It may be possible to unbolt the door handle at the rearward edge of the door, and pull the handle out. Thus the answer would be "no". Give it a try. |
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Data from your profile
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1995 E320 1986 MB 560sl 1999 Buick |
Bump for a good thread!
Any particular preference for the adhesive for the plastic film? I managed to get the film to more or less stay in place with the old adhesive, but, if I do another door (next weekend, probably :) ), I'll definitely want to glue it back on. |
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Best to list in signature and simply reference as needed. |
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Back to this thread again after removing several door panels and fixing a few doors. ;)
I did notice that the OP's DIY does not include removal of a clip I encountered working on a 1987 W124 300TD. Removing the buttons for the seat switch to then remove the trim over the switch and the Egress lever, it is also necessary to remove a retaining ring from the center pin of the seat control. I modified the OP's pic to show the location of the clip in question. Again, great write up, thanks for sharing. Someone mentioned getting replacement J clips from the dealer. Is this possible? |
Answer
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MB# 201 990 06 91 |
awesome, thank you.
Which of the (bunch per panel) do these (2) replace? Suggestion what to do with my left rear arm rest that is missing both J clips? Trying to find a replacement. No luck. I may drive screws into the door from the corners of the speaker. |
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Data needed
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I may have good used parts or a fix/patch. |
will try to get something tomorrow.
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If anyone is still looking for a DIY on door panel removal, please check out the below links.
Mercedes-Benz W124 Front Door Panel Removal | 1986-1995 E-Class | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article Mercedes-Benz W124 Rear Door Panel Removal | 1986-1995 E-Class | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article |
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