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#1
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DIY: Steering wheel removal, Access stalks, Correct loose stalks
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1998 W210 diesel (wiped out by a texter) Baum spring compressor "for rent" |
#2
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Steering wheel pulls off easily revealing this: ![]() After removing the two screws (seen in above picture), you’ll see the view below. You now have access to the turn signal module which is on a short connector and needs to be removed. You need to remove the cruise control stalk which is on a VERY long cable that must connect under the dash (??). Note how all the cables are threaded and where they run. You’re going to have to put this back together in a few minutes! Remove the three screws shown below - - everything will come apart at this stage. ![]() You’ll need to fully retract the electric steering column at this point so you can slip the plastic shroud off and gain access to the machine screwing which tightens the collar. Plastic shroud slips off revealing the errant screw, here it is: ![]() I removed it and there was evidence of LocTite. I applied some fresh LocTite, re-installed the screw, and corrected the orientation of the collar so the two tips were located at 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock. Screw was tightened. Assembly is simply reverse order. ![]() This job took exactly 1 hour with a 10 minute break. While it looks complex, it really wasn’t. The disassembly is logical; there are no odd little pieces or any “tricks” needed. I’ll re-iterate that removal of the 10mm nut holding the steering wheel place is the most difficult aspect of this job.
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1998 W210 diesel (wiped out by a texter) Baum spring compressor "for rent" |
#3
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Great write-up, thanks and especially your pictures and details on which tools. Very helpful.
I would also emphasize the caution referred to on the other sites : Quote:
Haasman
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'03 E320 Wagon-Sold '95 E320 Wagon-Went to Ex '93 190E 2.6-Wrecked '91 300E-Went to Ex '65 911 Coupe (#302580) |
#4
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Well done uberwng and congratulations.
I am interested to know how you succeded to remove the 10mm hex screw? It is so tight from the factory I must change the turn swith on my car.
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Keep us posted especially if your problem is solved Present cars: My car: E-class 420CDI, 2008, W211, V8,[/B] 50 000km Wife's one: C-class 220CDI Sport Coupé, Euro, 2002, W203. 245000km Son's one: GLK class 220CDI, 2009, W204 Sold E class 260E, W124, 1988 beloved car sold after 489 000 kilometres of reliable services (engine M103, clutch and 5 speed manual gear box all original). E-class, W210 320CDI, 2000[/B], 225 000km, Sold |
#5
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Thanks, guys.
Quote:
That 10mm bolt is tough and I was getting ready to give up. I used my impact gun on it for a few mins and I think it helped. I went back for one last attempt with the long breaker on it and it came loose. The real problem is counter-holding it. It would be ideal to have a friend/helper (male) that could counter hold the steering wheel while the other person torques on the breaker. Counter-holding is the whole problem. Would it be possible to put a long 2X4 thru the steering wheel spokes and brace it against the floor? Maybe. I'd be concerned about damaging or breaking the steering wheel.
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1998 W210 diesel (wiped out by a texter) Baum spring compressor "for rent" |
#6
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That bolt either has loc-tite or is micro-encapsulated. Next time apply a little heat with a micro torch to soften the plastic. It makes the job much easier.
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Auto Zentral Ltd. |
#7
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Quote:
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2012 E350 Bluetech |
#8
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Quote:
Forp - I understand the 3 ft. extension. Did you have an extra pair of hands to use as a "counter"? Thanks.
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Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" Libertarian Because... Your Party and the other one you hate so much have both made a Mess of this Country |
#9
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No extra hands. I just arrange the pipe and breaker bar ends so that they are about a foot apart with the breaker bar above the pipe(this is all happening on the left side of the steering wheel), with a good grip on the two ends, push on the pipe while pulling on the breaker bar so no torque is applied to the steering wheel. It takes a little ooomph but no too bad.
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2012 E350 Bluetech |
#10
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Bill Wood - Retired Webmaster My Personal Website 1998 Mercedes E430 2010 Toyota Sequoia My Photo Albums |
#11
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Forp - Thanks.
At first I thought you were using the pipe as an ext. to your breaker - I've done that for added leverage. I see what you're doing. Good "one man" plan.
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Mike Murrell 1991 300-SEL - Model 126 M103 - SOHC "Fräulein" Libertarian Because... Your Party and the other one you hate so much have both made a Mess of this Country |
#12
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The one thing I learned with many years in the US Navy was to never work hard when you can work smart. A little heat on the bolt with a micro torch, and you just zip it out with an air gun.
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Auto Zentral Ltd. |
#13
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I just used this procedure to tighten my loose turn signal/cruise controls and found it to be very useful.
I do have a couple of comments/suggestions. Note: My vehicle is a 1998 E320 wagon. 1 - I did not disconnect the battery. If you do and you extend the steering wheel all the way out to remove the airbag you will have to reconnect it later to move the steering wheel inward. All of the connector except two (horn contacts?) are shrouded and recessed so the risk isn't too high. 2 - The DIY recommends a 3" Torx bit but a 2" will also work if you're using a 1/4" drive ratchet or other right angle tool. 3 - I found the steering wheel mounting bolt to be very hard to remove. I ended up using heat followed by impact wrench followed by long breaker bar to finally release it. It had been installed with medium strength thread locker. Be wary of using a torch near the wires coming thru the steering wheel hub. They could melt easily. 4 - Be sure to mark the position of the steering wheel hub on the steering shaft. The splines are pretty fine and it's easy to be off by one. You'll notice that the there is a gap (two splines wide) at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions in the splines in the steering wheel hub. Use this gap ( at the 6 o'clock position) to guide a fine felt tip marker like a sharpie and make a mark on the end of the steering shaft. The steering wheel hub splines extend beyond the end of the steering shaft so this is easy to do. 4 - The two screws holding the steering wheel position device are #1 Philips. They are fine threaded and will take a few turns to come all the way out. This device is also held in place at the back by two electric connectors. Pry gently and it will pop off. 5 - The final three screws (#2 Philips) hold the Cruise control and Turn signal control in place. The one at 12 o'clock is for the cruise. Remove it and hang it aside. After removing the other two screws, slide the turn signal device foward and down. There are three electrical connectors. Start with the yellow one at the top. Notice the you must depress two clips on the sides and then slide it forward. Once it is far enough forward you can feed the wires thru a slot in the bracket to release it. The second, black rectangular, connector has one clip to press at one end. The third white connector is like the yellow however the leads are not nearly as long. If the steering shaft is extended all the way out, there will not be enough slack in the leads for this connector to slide it forward and pass the leads thru the slot in the bracket. You will need to retract the steering shaft to get enough slack. Also note that both the yellow and white connectors have a 'key' on one edge and a corresponding notch in the opening in the bracket. 6 - Slide the plastic shroud off the steering shaft and let hang at the end of the cruise control device. 7 - The pinch bolt (the cause of all the problems) is a #2 philips and requires a torque of 5 Nm. I did not find any evidence of thread locker but I put a little medium strength on anyway. 8 - Reassembly is straight forward. Torque for the steering wheel mounting bolt is 80 Nm. You may want to drive around the block after reassembly just to make sure of your steering wheel alignment before adding any thread locker. NOTE: As mentioned do not turn the ignition key without replacing the air bag. Thanks again to Uberwgn for the pictures and procedure. Last edited by RichardM98; 07-11-2008 at 07:33 PM. |
#14
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THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU for this thread. I have to replace the turn signal/high beam switch in my 95 E300.
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1995 E300 diesel |
#15
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Uberwgn,
Is this procedure necessary to correct my problem of the turn signal lever not turning off after I signal go make a turn on my 1986 560SL? Or, is there a more simple adjustment to be made somewhere without getting into the steering column. Please replay to SMihaly137@aol.com Thank you. Steve 1986 560SL, 90K |
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