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Old 06-20-2006, 06:06 PM
chazola's Avatar
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: London, United Kingdom
Posts: 1,241
116 rear caliper stuck piston

typical... go to check & replace my rear brake pads and find out what was causing the sqealing I was getting... right-side outer pad was worn down almost to the backing and the piston is stuck in the out position and doesn't want to budge... tried bleeding then moving it but it's still removing to give more than a tiny amount... any tips?!

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1993 320TE M104
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1983 230E W123 M102
1994 E300D S124 OM606 (x2)
1967 250SE W108 M129
1972 280se 3.5 W108 M116
1980 280SE W116 M110
1980 350SE W116 M116
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Last edited by chazola; 06-20-2006 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 06-20-2006, 08:50 PM
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Location: Blue Point, NY
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The only way to remove a really stuck piston is to use the hydraulic system on the vehicle. Get a C-clamp and securely clamp the functioning piston all the way back into its bore. Make sure the C-clamp won't interfere with the stuck piston when it moves away from its cylinder.

Connect up the brake hose and support the caliper so that the brake hose doesn't take all the weight of the caliper. If you introduced air into the system in a big way, you may need to bleed the caliper before attempting this procedure.

Get in vehicle and step on the brake pedal several times. The pressure in the system will force the stuck caliper right out of the bore.

Now, you can determine if the bore is in decent condition and the caliper can be salvaged, or whether it needs to be replaced.

I salvaged one of my rear calipers on the SDL with a slightly binding piston. The bore cleaned up fine.

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