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  #1  
Old 08-08-2006, 07:38 PM
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will someone help me with CA smog, please???

I've posted this the other day. Nobody answered. I need direction for proper steps to take. My 1988 300CE is not smogging. I have a smog check from this January. My friend bought the car then. He bought from the 2nd owner. I recently bought the car. Since I have a smog check cert. and the registration is still good, do I need another smog this year?

If I recall correctly, it was that way in the past.

Also, what steps ought I take to get the gummed up HCs out of my motor? I took the car into my uncle's smog man and we were able to dial the mix to within allowable limits but the engine won't start. So I'm driving somewhere between 'Gross Polluter" and Smog legal.

Car is all original aside from a possible valve seat guide job.

Thank you in advance for any and all advice.

Yours,
Jason Carpenter
Los Angeles

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Old 08-08-2006, 09:17 PM
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To change ownership the car must have been smogged within the last 90 days. According to law a seller is required to smog the car before sale. Your friend is legally liable for that car to pass smog before he sells it. Since he is your friend, we won't go there. HC means unburnt fuel. Adjusting CO won't help that much. You need to find the reason all the fuel isn't burning. Plugs, cap, wires, vacuum leak. Can you provide all before and after readings? That car is on the state's list for high emitter profile, but for NOX and not HC.
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  #3  
Old 08-08-2006, 09:56 PM
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this is strange

What you have told me has definitely helped me and enlightened me. Thank you. I recently sold a classic saab 900 that i bought from a neighbor. Since there was a very recent smog cert. with the sale I did not smog the car when I bought it. Now I know why. But I did sell the car without smogging it for the buyer. That was a mistake. And I made a mistake with this merc. My 'friend" has skipped to Oahu. And my wife's uncle (who is a "mechanic" and owns garages) told me about the NOX and that this car is on the state's list. We believe the car has original cats and that it wasn't used much at all in recent years. It's a time warp of a car. I have all the original owners records and he barely drove it. The second owner barely maintained it. But both must have garaged it.
Would taking it in for a complete tune-up get me within range? I think the car has not been driven right for a long time. It needs to get the HCs out of it. I did have it at my uncle's smog guy. We fiddled with the air intake mix. It's not dumping fuel now. we were able to get it right down to ay with in range for all for measurements. it just wouldn't kick over. So I could not get it passed. The car really needs a 100 mile run on an open highway. I figure a spec tune-up first with new plugs and hoses first. Then an italian tune-up. Do you think this may help me? Or is this considered a motor that's just a dog in California? Perhaps doing the injector cleaning and replacing and hoses and plugs and checking the distributor and throttle would help. But maybe a new OE cat is needed too. the list is growing before my eyes.
Jason
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  #4  
Old 08-09-2006, 12:03 AM
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smog report

Also, I did look at the smog history. it has only failed the most recent time. I think there are ways to get this motor to pass.
Thanks
Jason
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  #5  
Old 08-09-2006, 12:15 AM
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Dont forget the air filter. I had a Chevy 350 that wouldnt pass until the air filter was installed on the front floor board and it was re-tested after teh techs break was over.....
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  #6  
Old 08-09-2006, 01:32 AM
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brand new filters

and fluids all around. better double check to see that they are the right ones and that they are in the right way. also, the oil looks like it was overfilled. And I have been using Chevron 91 with Techron. Maybe this is getting some of the crud loosened up.
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  #7  
Old 08-09-2006, 09:37 AM
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You should search 'emissions' ...start here:
Successful CA ASM emission test (KE fuel system)
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Reading your M103 duty cycle:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831799-post13.html
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/831807-post14.html
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  #8  
Old 08-09-2006, 10:48 AM
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Everything you do will help. I suggest having your uncle adjust mixture so car runs right on road and forget about smog for the moment. Get a temp operating permit and drive it for awhile. Changing oil could help if you've got a crankcase full of fuel. Remember HC is unburned fuel which can come from unmetered fuel like a dripping injector or a lean misfire. Also that car requires premium which influences smog readings. Also pull the pass side floor mat, put the car in open loop by disconnecting the oxygen sensor, and read the sensor output. your mechanic should know how to read that.
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Old 08-09-2006, 12:08 PM
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I would get new spark plugs, at least take the distributor cap off and check/clean it, get a tank of premium gas, and head north. Take the 5 north, ignore the sign that says turn the AC off (but keep an eye on your temp gauge) and turn around at Templin Highway, that will take you up the steepest part of the grapevine. And when you test it get the cat good and hot, idling isn't hot enough.
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  #10  
Old 08-09-2006, 07:59 PM
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Agreed. Thanks for the responses. I've read the emissions posts. Thank you.

For what it's worth, I'm getting a higher idle. Must be due to setting the mixture towards the lean side. Seems the motor is cold starting and, also at warm, idling around 1000 rpm. However, before adjusting the mix it was idling right around 600 or so. From what I understand, this motor is set to idle down around there.

I will be getting the car into Enrique ASAP. A much needed 100 mile run North will follow.

Jason
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Old 08-09-2006, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonOne View Post
I'm getting a higher idle. Must be due to setting the mixture towards the lean side. .......................................... idling around 1000 rpm. However, before adjusting the mix it was idling right around 600 or so. From what I understand, this motor is set to idle down around there.

I will be getting the car into Enrique ASAP. A much needed 100 mile run North will follow.

Jason
It would seem you are missing idle control. 1000 rpm is above idle target.....The others, telling you to fill up with premium gas is a good idea ...but....drain or use the old gas with the additives in it first....the additives will fudge the tail pipe emmisions to rich and if the engines warm, will increase NOX at high idle test.

Does this model have a EGR valve ?

Seems you need to do an Italian tune Up too....the cat's may be partly plugged or slow to heat up and quick to cool down..

Any missfire will increase C/O % so need to carefully check spark/wires etc.


.
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2006, 02:19 AM
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fuel additives

Are you saying that the additives are not good if they are in the system for helping me pass smog? OK. So then I will use techron or lubro moly now but for the test it must be drained and then use mobil fuel? Or any fuel besides Chevron?

I am hoping to get this motor checked out completely before the weeks out.

Thank you.

Regards,
Jason
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2006, 01:50 PM
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The reason for not using most of these additives is due to the blend of gasoline ingredients combining with the bottle of what ever, and being poorly matched....very much like oil additives. Additives will/can upset the combustion and produce affects on the readings for emissions tests.

There is one product that guarantees a lower tail pipe reading............
.http://www.rxp.com/Auto-Ad.htm

I have not used it but some here might have.

Older vehicles will not pass due to crank case blow by or the CHECK ENGINE lite is on.
Vehicles that typically get low miles per gallon are hard to get a pass.

There is a new test that does not use tail pipe gases being studied.
They claim t/p tests don't tell the whole story of how efficient an engine is.

http://blogs.rockymountainnews.com/denver/rockytalklive/archives/2006/05/no_more_tailpipe_testing.html


This is another reason E85 fuel is being pushed .

http://www.ucsusa.org/clean_vehicles/vehicles_health/the-plain-english-guide-to-tailpipe-standards.html

( See my other thread..Wal-Mart fuel...... 20 cents a gallon ? )




.
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Last edited by dkveuro; 08-10-2006 at 01:59 PM.
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  #14  
Old 08-10-2006, 07:06 PM
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idle

dvk,

thank you for the links. I wonder if there is a way to retro fit this mercedes gasser I have so it will run on ethanol mix fuel.

I addressed the higher idle by turning back the mix setting. It seems to work. Car is idling back at 700-750rpm today.
What would this be telling us? i assume that the injectors and the throttle are all dirty. It would seem that this car is just really high with HCs. I think that running the chevron techron 91 fuel in the tank while at the pre-check test definitely contributed to higher HC readings.
Also, having the intake set too lean may have something to do with the strange high idle.

One other thing, since the high idle the last two days, the ignition key lock has been sticking. I have been turning it in Neutral to get the key to out of lock. What could this be telling? I'm sure it's all related.

Thanks,
JAson
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  #15  
Old 08-11-2006, 10:19 AM
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E85 = Check with manufacturer.

Idle speed and duty cycle % are inter related.....unless duty % is 50% and ranging + or - 8% the idle will not set to target.
(this is suposing the system on your car is the electronic idle system...must have a idle control valve just ahead of the CIS-e fuel distributor...has a two pin electrical connector.)

http://www.***********************/apw_parts/mercedes~300e~idle_control_valve~vmr-mmp~apw43bc687193231.html?apwcid=V1092232004W411a2344ecd29&apwkwd=Mercedes+300E+Idle+Control+Valve

Hi-test, premium fuel will usually burn clean in a warm healthy engine.
however a 89 might perform better as it will burn better or more complete reducing t/p emissions.....not always the case.

Igniton lock problem is co-incedental.


.

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