W124 key cylinder removal without key - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

fastpakr · #1 08-08-2006, 09:50 PM

Due to a series of unfortunate events, my 87 300D is now without an ignition key. Because the unit was replaced at some point before I purchased the car, the ignition and door keys didn't match so I can't just go to the dealer for a new key. Does anyone have info on removing the cylinder without a key? I found a writeup for the W123 cars, but it doesn't look like that applies. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

Gilly · #2 08-08-2006, 09:58 PM

Remove steering wheel and upper jacket, remove/disconnect shaft from steering box, remove entire lower jacket tube. Steering column now in your hands, takes a few hours, roughly (will be a bit harder with the steering lock still in place but just take your time and do it right). Remove band that surrounds steering wheel lock assembly, then pry out the section that retains the steering wheel lock and remove the whole thing. Find nearest trash can. ORDER the correct cylinder for your car, everything will then match, will only take a day or two to get the correct one. Will also need the new steering wheel lock and might as well replace the ignition switch (electrical portion) at the same time so I don't have to even TRY to tell you how to get the switch removed. Put it all back together.
Gilly

fastpakr · #3 08-08-2006, 10:10 PM

Thanks - that helps tremendously. So when this procedure is done, I'll need:

and

As well as a new cylinder from the dealer that's coded to the VIN?

Carson357 · #4 08-08-2006, 10:19 PM

what i have done in the past and isn't quite as involved or time consuming as post #2. take a high speed Die Grinder cutting tool with a small cutting tip and grind off the nipple i have circled in the picture below, removing this will allow you to turn the lock and remove it, i have seen some people also smash ther little nipple with a hammer and punch, i would not personally do this, but you may consider it depending on your options. the other thing the previous poster failed to mention was the plug for the ignition switch will not come off unless the key can be turned, there are three screws holding the electrical switch on, looking at the other picture i have below you will see the areas i have circled in red, these areas are where the screws are, keep in mind they will also be covered by the plastic of the plug connector, you will need to drill some small holes there to acess the flathead screws. start off with small bit and work your way up to the size that will allow you to remove the screws, once this is removed, you can then turn the switch with a screwdriver and remove the switch.
you will need the following parts:
1. coded ignition tumbler
2. black metal cover for ignition lock
3. steering lock, usually will come with switch attached the one in the picture does not show then togeather
4. ignition switch if not sold with lock assy

fastpakr · #5 08-08-2006, 10:23 PM

Thanks for your post - I'll start in on this tomorrow night. All the help is fantastic!

Gilly · #6 08-08-2006, 10:37 PM

I concur, I have seen it dne this way as well. Carson is right, you need to do a bit of work to properly remove the connection for the ignition switch, then you need a new connector as well as the switch. Be sure to make a diagram of what wires went where on the connector before you take the connector apart, but you can do the drilling and remove the 3 screws before you do this, it'll be easier then. If you have access to a good mini-diegrinder yes you can use the deburring tool to grind off the small hardened steel locking pin, you neeed to remove the strap clamp to have access to it, what little access there is. I got pretty fast at getting the whole steering tube removed and working on it on the bench (prying out the whole part the lock fits in to instead of grinding off the lock pin). Do whichever you are comfortable with, but essentially these are your 2 options that I'm aware of.
So the list now looks like this:
Steering lock (you have in your lower picture)
Lock cylinder (has different names, it's the part the key fits in to). YES you can get one coded to the car NO problem, will come with a key or maybe 2, this key should work in the doors and trunk as well, same as Day 1. Dealer needs to order, will need proof of ownership (title or registration and your DL).
Ignition switch (recommend having it, may get busted removing the connector)
Black collar Carson mentioned (this is the part you see around the key hole)
Electrical connector pieces for the ignition switch, 2 pieces
May want to replace the shut-off valve, this is only on the diesel engine cars, or you can transfer the old one to the new lock.
Gilly

Gilly · #7 08-08-2006, 10:41 PM

Oh you need to remove the instrument panel (just the gauges, not the whole dash!) to have access to anything at all. Know how to do it?
Gilly

fastpakr · #8 08-08-2006, 11:36 PM

Actually, the cluster wasn't fully clipped in and I removed it when I was fiddling around with the dash trying to figure out where to start. I've got the lower dash panel off now too, so I've got my work cut out for me tomorrow.

fastpakr · #9 08-08-2006, 11:44 PM

Quick thought - any chance there would be a number coded somewhere on the cylinder once I have a better look that would allow me to order a key before tearing it out of the steering wheel lock?

Carson357 · #10 08-08-2006, 11:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastpakr

Quick thought - any chance there would be a number coded somewhere on the cylinder once I have a better look that would allow me to order a key before tearing it out of the steering wheel lock?

not likely,

Gilly · #11 08-09-2006, 11:34 AM

No, there isn't. Nice thing is you should be able to order it without anything other than your VIN, title or registration, and DL. They have a shop in Joisey that makes these, usually you get them in a day or two, so don't sweat it. I myself would not accept a "generic", take you r time and do it right, get it back to the way it should be. You just create hassles down the road if anyone needs another key for the car. Get the right one. So in other words it'll be just as easy and YES you can order it NOW, no need to wait for anything to be torn apart. And this also shows why it's better to get the right one, because right now there is no way (that I know of) for anyone to order a key for the car, no one probably knows which key code you have as someone installed a non-matching (ie generic lock cylinder.
Gilly

fastpakr · #12 08-09-2006, 11:48 AM

No worries on that - I ordered it with the VIN about an hour ago and it should be here on Monday. I was just curious because the part that's already there is definitely an OEM MB replacement part (which begs the question of why it wasn't matched up to begin with), so if I could have just stayed with separate keys for door and ignition for less money I would have gone that route rather than tearing things apart. Anyway, the cylinder should be here next week and hopefully in the mean time I can get the other pieces out and ready to go. The car has other issues holding me up from driving it, so a few days isn't a killer.

Carson357 · #13 08-09-2006, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastpakr

No worries on that - I ordered it with the VIN about an hour ago and it should be here on Monday. I was just curious because the part that's already there is definitely an OEM MB replacement part (which begs the question of why it wasn't matched up to begin with), so if I could have just stayed with separate keys for door and ignition for less money I would have gone that route rather than tearing things apart. Anyway, the cylinder should be here next week and hopefully in the mean time I can get the other pieces out and ready to go. The car has other issues holding me up from driving it, so a few days isn't a killer.

you can buy oem tublers that are not coded to the vin, that is likely what was done by the previous owner.

Gilly · #14 08-09-2006, 08:23 PM

Correct, this is what I refer to as a "generic" lock. The dealers can keep cylinders on the shelf this way for an absolute "have to have it today" fix. Say for someone who just stopped to eat on vacation and now the key won't turn, and want it fixed asap. The right thing to do is accept this as a temporary repair and have the cylinder replaced with the proper one once they get home. I don't know if anyone really would know how to obtain a new key in this circumstance, maybe if they kept the bag or box the generic cylinder came in, there may be a "code" involved. But I've never seen a list or mention of an actual key "code" from MB, it's just done by VIN.
Gilly

fastpakr · #15 08-10-2006, 11:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilly

Remove band that surrounds steering wheel lock assembly, then pry out the section that retains the steering wheel lock and remove the whole thing.

Can you elaborate on this? The band around the lock assembly is sandwiched between two sections of the dash frame, and the bolts running through it are welded onto one of the sections, so I don't see how you could remove it short of cutting it out. Surely I'm missing something here?

Edit...
N/m on the above. I got it out with a die grinder. I'd initially given up on that approach because I couldn't find a bit small enough, but finally located something that worked. Hopefully on Monday I'll be able to start reassembling with the new pieces. I failed to order a cylinder housing, so I need to figure out how to remove the old one or order another now.
Thanks to all for the help!