making new holes for switches on wood trim?
 

Does anyone know of how to or who can make the switch holes on the wood trim of w124 and w210 wood? I need it to be exact like factory. I am not sure what the factory uses but it looks laser cut.

They use a router with a template. The dealer can probably do it for you.

That takes too long:rolleyes: ...try a little thin roll of C-4 in a circle....does 'shaped charge' mean anything ?:thumbsup:


.

If it's just the veneer, maybe die-cut?

I believe you have to clamp another thin piece of wood over the pretty side of the wood to keep it from splintering. A dremel might do the job. Find an old switch and use it's parts for a templet.

I dont thhink a dealer can do, if under warranty its a replacement, after warranty its on you. There is a part # for each variation. Do you have any friends who are dentists ?

I agree on a Dremel. I think that jewelers have fancy tools for engraving that might actually do the trick, try a jewelry maker. MB has a tool available for doing this but I think it is rare, it's not a tool MB would "make" the dealer buy like alot of them. Just so you realize this, it's NOT just wood, it's wood bonded to aluminum sheet, which keeps the wood from splintering in an accident, but aluminum shouldn't pose a problem to a jewelry maker.
Gilly

Look at the switch between the sunroof switch and the hazard. It's a window switch transplanted into a hole cut with a dremel and hand files. It runs the electric sunshade transplant.

It looks good for what it is, in a well maintained 22 yr. old car, but it is a touch short of "factory finish" for a new W210, took a bit of time and care; and as Peter implied earlier it is best if you work with your hands on minute, delicate things everyday :)

All you need is a router and a ball bearing straight bit. You will have to make a jig that will guide the router and bit. The ball bearing will ride against the jig walls to guide the cutting. A plunge router woudl be best but not necessary. this is basic wood working. Do a google search on routing and bearing guided bits.
Either the router will move or the wood piece will move. You have to decide that based on your tools.
A carbide bit will minimize tearout, better yet tape over the wood surface to minimize tearout.

http://www.tundraware.com/Woodworking/UsingRouterTemplates/

http://www.newwoodworker.com/guidebush.html

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/hi_tools/article/0,2037,DIY_13936_3207650,00.html

http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/pnc/hardware/index.html

Also consider going to a book store and reading up on routers.

Dave

Wouldn't a normal router bit get damaged by the aluminum below the wood veneer?

Yes the panel has a an aluminum panel in the rear. A high speed steel router bit will cut through this thin aluminum. It looks about 22 gauge. It will dull the bit, but it is doable.
The cut will be complicated. Notice that the wood has 2 small tabs on it to control the depth of the switch. So a controled depth router cut to the depth shown, and then a complete cut to remove all the material. A HSS bit can be used, a milling bit would of course be more ideal.

It would be better to find a panel with all the holes cut and refinish it if necessary.

Dave

The dealer? why are they woodworkers?