Trans Removal Help - 86 300E
 

I'm planning to remove my transmission and replace all the seals, o-rings, gaskets and clutch plates. I've got the special tools for disassembling the trans.

Can anyone point me to a step-by-step procedure for disconnecting all the essentials from the trans before removing it?

Also, is there a special thin-wall socket required to remove the 12 point output shaft nut?

Where the collar of the nut is knocked into the recess on the shaft, what's the easiest way of moving it back out? A small punch, or will unscrewing the nut force it back out without any damage to the shaft?

I've got the car raised about 18"-20" off the ground and I've got a HF scissors trans jack that lowers to about 6". Should that be enough to allow me to remove the trans from under the car? BTW, the driveshaft, exhaust system, rear suspension and rear subframe are removed from the car.

Is there any thing in particular I should watch out for, either in removing or replacing the trans or in rebuilding it?

I'm going to check and probably replace the B2 piston just because, should I do the same with the B1?

I've got the ATSG 722.3 & .4 transmission manual to work with. Any known problems or mistakes in this manual I need to be aware of?

The trans has about 150K miles on it. Should I have the converter/front pump rebuilt while it's out? What should I expect to pay? Any good rebuild sources in the L.A. area?

Thanks for any help

The disconnecting things should be pretty obvious I'd think. Be sure to at least remove the bolt holding the dipstick tube to the back of the head, and you are a little limited on space so actually it's easy just to remove the whole tube (1 bolt holding the tube to the case of the trans, goes in from on top, still easy to do it, 10mm bolt, replace the o ring on that tube). Remove the air cleaner from the engine to remove totally the TV cable. Vac line at the modualtor, shift rod, safety switch wire connector, easy shtuff. You amy be short on clearance but you could probably drop/roll the trans off the jack to the floor if neccesary. MB has purty good torque converters, maybe see if someone does flushing of the component itself (trans shop maybe) but you can always just drain it and call it good enough, up to you. I'm sure you'll be resealing the front pump, hopefully your book tells you how to check the pump, I'd just do that and see what you think. Or I can tell ya if it doesn't. Replace that radial seal on the pump!
I think the nut on the yoke is a special tool, not "too" special though, just big and thin walled, yes. 27mm?? I think. Yeah just knock the thin part of that nut back a bit with whatever seems like it'll work. Exactly right, no need in knarling up the threads with it, although "probably" would survive OK.
Make sure, of course, that you remove the 6 bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate.
I think that's all I have to add right now.
Gilly

After you remove the 6 screws holding the torque converter to the flex plate, move the converter rearward into the transmission as far as it will go. Should slide back easily.

Thanks for the tips guys, any more?

Gilly, what's the TV cable?

TV=throttle valve. Goes from the throttle lingage on the engine to the right side of the trans. It has a ball socket on the throttle linkage you can pry off with a screwdriver, then you press the sides of the plastic part that fits into the throttle linkage bracket to remove the cable.
Gilly

Thanks Gilly.

What are your thoughts about the B1/B2 piston question. Is it a good idea to replace them both as a matter of course, or just the B2, as it's the older type prone to breakage.

Also, Any thoughts on the ATSG manual? Is it accurate?

Trans Rebuild
 

Phalcon51,
I just finished rebuilding my 90 300 SE, a 722.351.
Some pointers:
- NO special tools needed.
- Leave TV cable (Pass side on trans) connected to trans during drop, first disconnect from top.
- Drivers side elec connection is a bit tricky - see manual to remove by rotating collar then pulling.
-Cleanliness is key. YOu will see what I mean if you open the throttle body and see a small strainer - the screen must be a 1/10 mm grid - a speck of dirt would clog this. I covered a 4' x 8' plywood with sheet plastic and used every bit of space.
- Power wash before disassembly if possible.
- I used a 6 point thin wall deep oxygen sensor socket (1 3/16) to remove the large rear nut. I filed the additional 6 points in with a metal file - worked like a charm. Use a small sharp pick to open the depressed divot, then unscrew.
- I used the same manual you have - it is not intuitive and it took a couple of reads - also things becme clear during disassembly.
- Disassemble and take digital pics, also group your parts (eg B1 piston assembly) there are hundreds of parts in this trans!
-Your throttle body, front pump, and tc should be OK unless you find metal in your pan. Flush the tc with kerosene. Check throttle body for ease of movement. Take action if sticking or loose.
- Replace front and rear seals - use a puller if none available drill 3 holes then screw in sheet metal screws and pry out.
-Replace all frictions and check the steels for burning - replace if burned or damaged.
-Check all clearances per the manual. You will need calipers to do this - the special tool noted in the manual is a spacer which makes measurement easier by providing a straight parallel surface.
- DO NOT disassemble the planetary section unless you feel or see something amiss - leave in one piece if possible.
- DO replace all lip seals in both clutch packs. You will need to drill out the rivets to replace lip seals.
-PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION to the teflon split seals on the main shaft - I pinched one which resulted in no 4th gear and had to pull trans 2nd time to fix.
- I paid less than $300 US for the Master rebuild kit + both bands. This is less than one way shipping for a rebuilt trans. I got my kit from AXIOM distributors. They also sell tc and all other parts.
- You should pay attention to shift pressure after the rebuild, especially if you have a diesel.
- MB Doc and David Poole are very knowledgeable if you get into a pinch.

Other than the effort, it was an adventure diving into this beautiful work of engineering, especially the ravengaux planetary gear sets!
Let us know how it turns out - maybe a Do-It-Yourself article.

Agreed re. leaving the TV cable attached to the trans, just disconnect it from the throttle linkage on the engine, sorry if I somehow implied you should remove the cable on the tranny side.
B1-B2, my opinion, which when it comes to actually rebuilding the tranny should not be weighed TOO heavily, is to just replace the piston seals, not the pistons, unless they are scored.
Gilly