I have reviewed the DIY article above for the later model W124 and found it to be very detailed. I now have my earlier W124 (1988 300E)up on jack stands with the wheels off and all the parts ready. The caliper looks to be different from the one used in the DIY article. My question is do I get access to the pads by removing the two bolts/nuts on the top back of the caliper? I noticed that this piece has a flap cover that closes over the sensor. Any pointers would be welcome before I tackle the job in the morning.

How large are the bolts that you are referring to? If they are large, and there are two, taking them off is what you want to do if you want to take off the caliper. Perhaps your car has a n upgraded brake system installed by a previous owner? Look carefully for the ends of the pins as stated in the DIY. Can you post a picture of your brake caliper?

you should not have to
 

remove the caliper to replace the pads. Look down "edgewise" at the brake pad. The "slot" that you are looking down into should be big enough to pull the pad straight out - like away from the center of the wheel. There should be something holding the pads in against this outer edge you are looking down into. Unless the rotor is worn out you really should be able to do this job without removing the caliper.
Jim

Stock brake system for 1988
 

The caliper looks different from the one in the DIY. You can not look down edgewise and see the top of the pads. The top of the caliper wraps over the top of the rotor. There is a very small opening where the sensor connects. It does look like the caliper may have to be removed or at least this top half to get access to the pads.

Have you removed the "flap" that is covering the sensors?

In the DIY article, in the picture which shows the removal of the wear sensors, you can see the pads. There is a window in the caliper that should be roughly at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock depnding on how the caliper is situated. Referring to the same picture, the sensors are situated on the side of that window.

There should also be two pins, which traverse the window. They are what hold the pads in. If you can find the senors and see the pins, you should be able to see the pads.

Success!!
 

Just completed the job and returned from a test drive. The job is definitely a DIY'er. For my vintage of the 300E you have to open up the caliper to get access to the pads. There are two bolts that hold the caliper on and you need a 13mm socket to unscrew the bolt and a 15mm wrench to act a counter hold on the "inner" part of the bolt. Once you have the car jacked up and securely on jack stands. Remove the tire and you will see the top and bottom bolts which hold the "floating" caliper closed. Remove the bottom bolt and then just loosen the top bolt. You can then swing the caliper up and remove the pads. Next remove the cap on the brake fluid reservoir and place a rag over the opening to absorb any lost fluid from when you "squeeze" the caliper piston back. I used a large "C" clamp with a flat piece of wood to cover the end of the piston. Tighten the clamp till the piston is back in position. Apply anti-squeal paste to the backs and sides of the new pads. You should also install brake sensors to two of the pads. My '88 300E has one sensor on each of the front wheels. Some other models may use four sensors. Place the new pads in the pad guides in the same order as the old pads. Then lower the caliper housing down, being sure to "fish" the sensor wire through the small opening in the caliper. Re-tighten the bolts and plug in the sensor wire, then close the sensor cover. Repeat the procedure for the other side. Replace the wheels and lower the car. Pump the brakes up until the pedal gets firm and check the fluid level. Take a test drive.

[Edited by Crowe on 04-14-2001 at 03:28 PM]

An added note for the DIYer.
I find that breaking the bleeder open when pushing the pad pistons back in makes it easier and at the same time, gets
rid of the dirt and crud that accumulates at the end of eack line. Otherwise , you are pushing the dirty fluid back up the line and into the system/master.
Also a good time to change the fluid.

good tip on loosening the
 

"bleeder". First time I have seen this one.
Good way to get rid of used fluid at the caliper.
Jim

Can anyone please provide a direct link to this DIY article? I have a 1993 300E 2.8. Thanks!