300ce M104 Ezl
 

Yet another EZL failed on a 3.0 M104 (my parents). I have tried all yards with a 300SL on car-part.com and all the usual yards, no luck. I have sent it away to 4mercedes.com but there is a decent chance that it is fried and unrepairable. I would rather try something before having to pay $1100 for a rebuilt. Has anyone used an aftermarket ignition or tried to get a M103 EZL to work. Who really needs a knock sensor anyway:) It seems that the M103 option would be the easiest to retrofit, all I need is some spark!:silly: The EZL is no longer available from MB either new or rebuilt, and their last price for both was $2,700!!!! Thoughts?

I'm no help here but figure this out and you could have a valuable product for a market in great distress.

Bart, I've been searching for a replacement EZL ignition control module for our 1991 300CE for sometime now. They can't be reconditioned ... apparently epoxy on the internal components prevents that. The Haynes Manual recommends replacing the heat conducting paste on the backside if it dries out and becomes hard. Obviously our EZL's are past that point. I'm trying to get in touch with a distant relative in Germany to search for an EZL there.

300ce ezl
 

up to chassis #B023162 the ezl is available from benz for $1370.why go used when failure is as certain as death and taxes.

I've heard of people adapting later M104 EZL's, but the stepping in the VVT is not matched so things don't work ideally.

I think your biggest hurdle hear is coming up w/ something that does match the VVT steps..otherwise a lesser aftermarket engine management could solve your problem.

This makes the 5th 300CE of this vintage that I know of w/ a dead EZL and no answer..Find yourself one and you'll have a market ready and waiting!

Jonathan

Anyone actually try later EZL's on the 90-91 CE or have details to this?

It seems the later 92-95 300CE, SE, SEL EZL's are more available and have the same connections. How does it work with the difference of fuel injection types?

90-91 300CE compatible #'s
016 545 0432
101 545 9532
012 545 2132
012 545 2032
007 545 7132
007 545 7032
010 545 3932
010 545 9632
013 545 8332
010 545 9532

92-95 300CE 300SE, 300SEL compatible #'s
014-545-2332
012-545-8032
012-545-8132
014-545-2432

PM me, I got 4-5 used EZL (for 6 and 8 Cly) may be you can try it on. I got to see what number I have.
I live in West Chester, PA.

I know what I would do and that is put in an aftermarket ignition. You could go cheap with a msd or something. You do need something with a adjustable timing curve.

Let me know if it's one of the part numbers listed. They are unique to these years and models. Thanks

Sorry, what I have are

006 545 76 32 ( Siemen 6Zyl )
005 545 85 32 ( Bosch 6Zyl )

033 545 92 32 ( Bosch 8 Zyl )
004 545 53 32 ( Bosch 8 Zyl)

Anybody know what product this is and the procedure?

Thanks,

glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280

glenmore, Radio Shack sells heat conducting paste. It's used for computer components also.

Radio Shack sells heat sink paste for computer cpu's, that's what I'd use. Shouldn't cost more that a few $. Just take the EZL off the inner fender and scrape the old stuff off. Put a thin layer of the new paste on and reassemble. You don't need a lot, just so a bit gets squeezed out the sides as you tighten things. This will probably extend the life of your EZL.

read this:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/180397-ezl-ignition-module-thermal-conductor-paste.html?highlight=
and this:
http://mbworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=212192&highlight

From what I gather the bottom of the EZL uses the top of the fender as a heat sink. Seems it would work better with an aluminum heatsink and fan as used with CPU's unless the engine compartment is too hot. Ideally it should have more exposure to ambient outside air to keep it cool. If they fail because of inadequate cooling I question whether the original cooling design is at fault or fails when the conductive paste fails to cool it after age and must be replaced on a schedule.

The other concern is insulation from metal to metal indicated by a plastic film. I haven't removed mine yet, is the fender is painted or bare metal under the EZL?

pifcat2, the entire fender is painted. I don't think the heat conducting paste really needs to be replaced on any schedule, only reapplied if the original coating is compromised for some reason. The thin plastic film seems like it prevents getting paste on the fender more so than it prevents galvanic action ... perhaps it serves both functions.