Thanks guys!
I planned to buy a leakdown tester anyway, it on my Christmas list, but why wait? :)

I will pressurise the cooling system when cold and see where its leaking. Last time I looked it was the radiator! Done that now!
Next!

If it ( the leak) is coming from the heater hose, it's pretty DIY too. It helps to remove the air filter assm and the oil filter. You'll see the engine lifting hook back there, you'll see the one allen-head holding that on, and there is also one UNDER the part the hose attaches to, called the heater hose nipple. The nipple is all one piece with that lifting hook. Don;t even bother removing the clamp for the heater hose. Just get the 2 allens off and the nipple part will remove from the block. The part that engages into the block has a grey o-ring on it, which is available separately. I'd consider getting the MB part for this.
Gilly

Thanks Gilly,

I think I've got exactly the same leak on my 86'. Heck, maybe I should do the valve seals also- 95k miles. Lot easier on my time than a valve job.


Michael

IMHO the replacement of the valve stem seals don't really have a bearing on the guides. If anything the oil going past the seals might actually extend the life of the guides, but then you have to live with the crappy plugs and oil consumption, so not a good trade-off. I'd replace the stem seals if you have driveability concerns or oil consumption related to them.
Gilly

Thanks Gilly.
We drove the car a bit after cleaning up the plugs.
I will try to get the non resister plugs this week.
At first it ran really nice, then when the temp gauge got to 85/90, it started to misfire agin.
I felt that changing to 20/50 might help it run better, but it seem as bad as before.
I saw in my MB CD, that the usa/cal cars should have the Duty cycle set to 35% to 45%. I knew that last time I set it to 45/50, and when I checked it today, thats what it was. I tweeked it down to about 40% and its close to that at 2500rpm too.

Do you think the misfire we have is just the bad oil seals, and have you seen this before or am I just thinking wishfully that the seals will cure it.

VERY common on the 103
Gilly

Oh my!! :eek: :) I do not think I have seen spark plugs do that before. Looks like something I would want to scrape off of there posthaste. :D


Good luck to you and yours.

Yeah!
I think you can see from the thread header... I was in shock!
We swapped back the plugs for the champions that were in there when we got it until we can get the correct non resisters.

Link to valve stem seal DIY article for M103 below.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/M103ValveSeals

Hey Gilly, does it have to be a special German rope?:D

I learned something today! I never heard of the rope trick, but that is great if no air is available. I suspect once at the point of the rope holding the valves up, you'd want to lock the crank in place somehow, so it won't rotate.
Thanks Gilly!

Yah special German hanging rope or maybe some Shania Twine.
Gilly

Jeez...
All fed up now!
Cant find the correct plugs anywhere.
Even NGK dont have non resister anymore!

Maybe someone can tell me how I will know if the guides are toast?

Hey, I'm as traditional as they come and would LOVE to see non-resistors available. Bottom line is you NEED valve stem seals, those plugs aren't CAUSING this. Just buy whatever is "currently" correct, whether or not it is technically correct. Replace the stem seals and move on.

Gilly

Oh, on the guides you just "wiggle" the stem to check for looseness. At your mileage I doubt they are worn. To be nuts-on accurate you use a dial indicator and find out how much play there is. In other words you wiggle them just as I am suggesting but measure the results, not just a "general feel".
Gilly

Thanks Gilly,
I plan to do these stem seals in a couple of weeks. Up to my elbows in my Jeep waterpump and now it looks like I have a shot A/C clutch bearing and idler too!:rolleyes:

I was just looking for the correct plugs in the hope that it would help the plug fouling and make the car run smoother in the meantime.