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#61
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I'm just curious, but have you replaced the dist. cap and rotor? You probably already have...but I would look into those if it were my car...
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#62
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Yes replaced both about a month ago. I have a new updated thread with everything inside of it. Its on the 1st page of the thread list.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#63
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it always seems that new motor mounts fix the "misfire" problem.
However, when I did my stem seals...i wound up with a miss, too..made no sense to me... someone on the thread suggested that i loosen up the individual lines on the fuel distributor to isolate which cylinder was misfiring.. i did that... i think it was 4... anyway... i changed wires from another of the cars ....no difference... somehow from the time i did the stem seals to the time the job was done 5 hours later..a spark plug went bad.... 3.32 at the dealer and the car was fine... however, the stem seal job on the CE didn't resolve my oil situation... i did the same job on our 260e and it solved the oil situation
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1989 300ce 129k ( facelifted front,updated tail lights, lowered suspension,bilstein sports, lorinser front spoiler, MOMO steering wheel, remus exhaust,stainless steel brake lines). (Gone) 1997 s320 154k (what a ride). Sold with 179k miles. Replaced with Hyundai Equus 1994 e320 Cabriolet 108k 1972 280se 4.5 153k Owned for 12 yrs, sorry I sold it [/SIGPIC] |
#64
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Quote:
OK, It's been a long time since you asked the question but I didn't see the answer later in the thread. The part you are asking about is called a Ball Socket. I am very familiar with that part because a mechanic dropped one of those into my engine at some point in the past. For years it banged against the oil pump screen and eventually broke through, went into the oil pump and locked it up completely when it lodged between the gears. That caused the sprocket to rip off of the front of the oil pump. You can imagine. Anyway, that's what it's called and they do not come in different sizes. You never did say what was the cause of your misfire...
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2012 E350 2006 Callaway SC560 |
#65
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I still have not figured it out yet unfortunately. I made other threads that compiled everything here along with numerous other things I have done.
I have established that it has gotta have something to do with the idle fluctuations as soon as the engine gets into closed loop. The ICV keeps opening and closing as the vacuum gauge moves with the rpm's. So something in the ignition system is doing it. There are only a few culprits left -- Potentiometer (checked voltage on it and it showed fine), hall sensor and crank position sensor (checked resistance and was within spec). I am going to start by swapping the entire CIS with the one from my 260E to see what happens. If anything changes then its gotta be the potentiometer as everything else I have swapped on that unit. Then swap the hall sensor from my 260E. My 260E drives great, so whatever I swap should show a difference if it is bad.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#66
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My 300E still slightly fouls the plugs after about 2,500 miles or so....but only a couple of them get any significant deposits (cylinders 5 and 6), I am guessing its because more oil pools above those valves due to the slant of the motor and the forces when accelerating etc....thus more gets sucked into those cylinders past the valve seals. I just pull those two plugs every few months and clean them off with a pick and some brake cleaner. They don't get remotely as bad looking as the ones in the beginning of this thread though. Just the #6 plug accumulates a little bit of carbon between the electrode and tip....just enough to ground it out part of the time. The motor only uses a quart per 1100 miles or so. I'm saving my $$ to have the seals done (or, if I become daring enough) do them myself sometime in the future. For now I don't mind the occasional 10 minute spark plug cleaning. With my picks and some brake cleaner I can have a plug looking nearly new in a few minutes.
Switching from Mobil 1 0w40 synthetic to Shell Rotella 5w40 diesel synthetic made a huge difference/decrease in oil consumption and plug fouling.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#67
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