300E m103 fan clutch removal tool
 

Hey everyone. I need to remove the viscous fan on my 92 300E (m103) and I was wondering what you guys use instead of the Special Service Tool 103 589 00 40 00 . I tried a length of coat hanger wire but it was just too flimsy to hold the pulley. Thanks!

Also...can you buy these "off the shelf" anywhere?

I used needle nose vise grips and the biggest allen key that will fit (3mm?).

Sixto
93 300SD

I've got a brand new one still in plastic bag. It someone wants to buy it price is $10 plus shipping. If interested PM me with you shipping address I'll figure total cost. I use FedEx ground insured.

on my 260E 1988 I made it from a 6mm diametre steel rod bended +/- 30 mm at 45degres, total lenght 300mm.
I dont know if it will work on your car.

Thanks for the tips. I ended up rubber banding a 3mm allen key to a length of coat hanger and it worked like a charm.

I too used some thicker-diameter rod, in this case some battery holddown rods from a Hyundai Elantra which I bent at the proper angle (90 degrees) - works like a charm!

I think I do have one of those around here, but yeah it's not too hard to come up with something. Hard part is knowing what the pulley hub looks like so you know you are hitting the right spot. $ of the hollows you see are the back of the bolt holes that hold the pulley on, 2 of them are the "real" holes to engage in to.
Gilly

How I removed the Viscus Clutch
 

Car: 1988 300TE
Tools Needed: 5mm alan key, 8mm alan key, 18" x 1/2" black pipe ($5 at home depot in plumbing section), Coat Hanger
> Remove two top clips that secure the fan shroud, pull up and slide back over the fan exposing the front of the fan and access to 8mm bolt.
> With a 5mm allen key, grind down the L so only 11mm sticks out, fasten it to a wire coat hanger with rubber bands.
> Turn the pully with the 8mm alan key to line up insertion hole with the engine block securing point and insert the key. Use a long thin screwdriver to push it in tight.
> Insert the 8mm alan key securely into the viscus clutch holding it in tight with one hand, while with the other slide the 18" pipe over the long end of the key. Be sure to hold the key tightly into the nut with one hand while breaking the initial bolt hold you don't want to strip it out with a poor alan key insertion.
> The bolt should come out easily and you may need to rock the fan back and forth to remove it from the pully.

This tool works well too - Pulley Spinning Tool

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...mage_16292.jpg

Sixto
87 300D

A steel valve cover bale from an aircooled VW works great with slight modification. :)

I did this job today and used a bent framing nail! Held on to it with a set of slender vise grips. worked well! What was hard was torquing the bolt without the proper shallow 8mm hex socket. I need to procure some more allen headed tools. I can't believe the widespread use of allen heads on our cars.

Are you talking about the lock or the socket for the bolts? I have both of the special tools I bought many years ago. The lock is nothing more than a bent piece of 1/4" (or so) rod. It would be easy to fabricate. The special socket I bought had corners that were not sharp after plating and it won't grip the bolts worth a hoot. It is kind of necessary due to the lack of room.

I expect that the bolts will be a bigger challenge than the lock.

If you can find one of those cheap yard signs, you know...the ones for yard sales or real estate, you can cut out one of the metal rods and bend the last 1 1/2 inch into an (almost) 90 degree angle.
I liked this because you have plenty of length to work with (almost 1-1/2 feet) instead of trying to get your hands in there to hold an allen wrench.

Here is what I used:

http://www.w124-zone.com/downloads/p...or/clutch1.jpg