Where should I place jack stands on my 92 300D 2.5 turbo?
I don't want to bend any part under the car. I would like to get all wheels off at same time.
Also, this car was missing the guide bolt from the tool kit when purchased used. Does anyone have a spare one to sell?
Thanks, Roscoe

I've had to do this a few times to get wheels off to send in for refinishing.It's not alot of fun. You almost have to have a couple good floorjacks to raise the car evenly, but if you only have one, I can suggest a way to do it. You DON'T wanna try this with the factory jack for changing a tire. What I have done is to raise the front of the car at the crossmember under the engine (NOT the oil pan!) and then the jackstands I usually put under the rear part of the front subframe supports (looks like a frame rail, inboard about a foot or so from the factory lifting pad). Then raise the rear, lifting with a floorjack right under the differential, the jackstands on the rear I do use the factory lifting pads. Be careful when placing the right front jackstand that you don't put it under the catalytic converter or converter heat shield. If you do have a pair of floorjacks, you can lift the front of the car by the subframe supports instead of the factory lifting pads and still get the jackstands under the subframe supports, too. You have to have a fairly good sized floorjack to lift it with. The larger the jackstands, the larger your floorjack is going to have to be (higher lift capability) or else use a 4X4 block of wood on the floorjack pad to help lift the car higher, but only use one block, stacking blocks to do this would seem unsafe, even to a maniac like me!...Gilly

PS Roscoe, forget that guide bolt, it creates more problems than it's worth. I'm sure more than a few people reading this can relate to what happens when that damn guide bolt gets stuck in the hub!....Gilly

I've got an extra guide bolt!! You're better off going to the dealer though, I'm sure they are cheap. That is you feel the need to use it (in reference to the previous post).

__________________
2006 E350 w/ 155k miles (Daily Driver)

Previous:
1993 300E 3.2L Sedan w/ close to about 300k miles
2003 E500 Brilliant Silver (Had 217k miles when totalled!)
1989 300E with 289,000 miles (had for <1 yr while in HI)
03 CLK 500 cabrio (Mom's)
2006 C230k (Dad's)
1999 S420 (Mom's/Dad's)
2000 C230k Sport sedans
2001 CLK320 Cabrio (Mom's)
1995 C280 My First Mercedes-Benz... (155k miles. EXCEPTIONAL AUTOMOBILE. Was Very hard to let go of!)

The problem with the guide bolt seems to be that it bends if you aren't carefull when you put the wheel on it. I've seen them bend enough that once the spare is fastened down, it will hit the side of the hole for the wheel bolt and you can't get it out, not without removing the wheel. And a few times, it seems like they tried with a pliers to rotate the guide bolt out and ended up stripping the threads on the guide bolt. I am unsure what the guide bolt is made out of. You would think it's just aluminum. But the stuff drills out really hard. Maybe it's the same stuff the spaceship was made out of that crashed in Roswell. Oh, I have to go answer the door, a Black Cadillac just pulled into my driveway, and some men in dark suits and sunglasses want to talk to me.......Gilly