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  #1  
Old 04-23-2001, 09:20 PM
Benzman500
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Ok I have tried everything fixed the bad headgasket water pump raditor etc. ANY OTHER IDEAS
btw its the 85 500sel euro
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 04-23-2001, 10:03 PM
240Joe's Avatar
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Dan

I missed the previous posts, but try checking your timing. I had similar problems with my toyota and my saab. After much frustration, I found that both had ignition timing off at idle. The saab was an 1985 so maybe your MB has the same type of vacuum advance.

Check the vacuum advance diaphrams to make sure they are working. If timing is retarded at idle, they will overheat no matter how good the radiator/thermostat/pump/etc.etc is.

Just my experience based on the last two gasoline powered autos I had. Both the failures occurred at 130 to 160kmiles.

HTH

Joe
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  #3  
Old 04-23-2001, 10:06 PM
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First thing I would have tried, and maybe you did, was/is the thermostat. After that I'd llok between the radiator and condenser for accumulations of dirt, leaves, bugs, everthing else that makes this planet great. If it looks all right, send the radiator out for a flow test......Gilly
ps: electric fan/fans working OK?
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  #4  
Old 04-30-2001, 10:36 AM
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What temp are you calling overheat? Up in the red? Is it always, or only when sitting still? Is the electric fan running when it is hot? Also, check and feel if the radiator is hot all over or only at the bottom at the inlet. It could be clogging up....it should be hot all over it when the car is hot. The side furthest from the inlet, and on the bottom will clog first. Feel there.

Did you convert to R134 from R12 in your a/c? If the pressure switch is not changed on the dessicant chamber, the electric fan will not come on with the a/c. The pressure for R134 is not enough to trigger the R12 switch. So overheat when you use the a/c.

Take look and post more info. You will get it fixed!! Good luck!
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  #5  
Old 04-30-2001, 01:44 PM
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I had a heating problem three different times. One was fixed by an updated fan design, another was a bad viscous clutch on the fan drive, and the third was a bad temp switch on the aux fan. There are alot of mechanical, electrical and physical systems on these cars. Keep digging, you will eventually find it.
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  #6  
Old 04-30-2001, 07:24 PM
Benzman500
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Every hose that has anything to do is changed. I call over heating when its 105 -120 which it runs on the interstat and even hotter just driving around. The a/c is still factory and doesnt work right now. All the fans work and the aux kicks in to high all the time I am Stumped. No where like it was when it had 48k on it.
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  #7  
Old 04-30-2001, 07:51 PM
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yal yal is offline
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Um maybe your gauge sender is bad?

If you are running a proper mixture of 50/50 or 60/40 and all that stuff has been replaced then its the gauge.
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  #8  
Old 04-30-2001, 10:30 PM
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overheating

Hey 500. I know how you feel about the heating game.
This is what I have experience being a factory tech.
One time I had a over heater a pretty good one. I had to replace 3 t-stat all defective. What I rec is going to get a new thermostat but ask for a 75 C opening temp they sell them. Also when you get it, on the outer ring looks like check valve almost looks like a ball bearing/get a pair of pliers and remove it you should have a clean hole after that/that lets more coolant/better circulation. An old timer benz tech told me when i start 13 yrs ago. If it doesnt have this checkball looking thing/drill a nice clean hole on the outer ring. Trust me this will help I have a 500E that runs hot all the time and I did all what youve done so far. But rem/ make sure the radiator has suffcient thermal effiency all areas of the rad needs to be hot and up to temp for all fans to work correctly.


bye
Guido
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  #9  
Old 05-01-2001, 08:07 PM
Benzman500
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The gauge is fine you can feel the heat off the engine and the fan kicks on the senors are good at least all i can find.
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  #10  
Old 05-01-2001, 11:15 PM
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Overheating

My advice, based on past experience with several cars, is have the radiator taken apart and rodded. or replace it. You may have been using 'green' stuff rather than MBZ cooolant. There IS a difference. Works fine 75% of time, then water chemistry changes with age and BLAM--insoluble white hard deposits starting at the cooler ends. Quickly plugs tubes solid (as it plugs less flow, cools the slow flow more, more deposits, etc, etc.

If replacing, get the thickest core you can, desert service.

Also do not overlook the water pump. Use ONLY MBZ dealer supplied pump (many rebuilts are available from dealers). After market rebuilders do not hold the close tolerances required for the pump to work efficently in hot slow conditions. Also run less glycol in th ecoolant mix (70% water, 30% glycol) will control corrosion, but cool better.
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  #11  
Old 05-02-2001, 01:01 AM
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OVER HEATING WON'T GO AWAY

Are you using a 3 core or 2 core radiator? I seem to think mine has a 2 core but 3 cores are available ('84 300D). Are you sure headgasket is OK. Have you put a pressure guage on the system. (Probably will need a tech to do this, unless you are Tim the Tool collector) If the headgasket is still putting pressure into the system it will never cool.
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  #12  
Old 05-02-2001, 08:36 PM
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Dan, pull the thermostat out completely and see what you get. If it is still running that hot, then there is a problem with block circulation or the water pump. I'm betting with the stat out, you will see a difference.

Nice to see ya again..
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1989 300e
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No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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  #13  
Old 05-02-2001, 08:52 PM
Benzman500
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Thanks
I have no stat in the car anymore because it is always hot. The raditor is brand new and is the 3rd new one ive tried. The water pump I buy from European Autoworks who does a great job with everything( I hate the dealer). The head is fine. I Have no idea anymore it may be the vaccum or anything eles
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  #14  
Old 05-02-2001, 09:20 PM
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Well, the circulation in the block may still be the problem. You can check this by backflushing thru the top radiator hose into the block and looking at the quality of flow from the lower hose (disconnect from radiator) Inflow should equal outflow. Other thought is timing. Is it on spec? Running it retarded could produce excess heat. You may have some air trapped in the block as well. Otherwise, I dunno...
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Jeff Lawrence
1989 300e
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan SE
No matter what you fix, there will always be something else to fix..
"Warranty" is just another way of postponing the inevitable.
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  #15  
Old 05-03-2001, 12:54 AM
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Pulling the thermostat will of course allow the coolant to flow out of the engine faster, but you will build up heat eventually as the cooolant begins to pick up heat from the engine, then is not held in the radiator long enough to cool off properly. Put the thermostat back in is my advice, maybe you could find a "cooler" thermostat. Are you sure the gauge is correct?
Gilly
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