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#1
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I don't mean to sound unappreciative of this site but it seems to take forever to get a reply when I post questions. I know people are busy. I feel though that unless a question is interesting it goes unnoticed. If I could get a reply on the SL forum I would post there but it's hard enough here on the Tech help. So, once more: How do I replace the smog pump belt on a 1981 380SL? Bolt adjustments? etc.? Thanks, Jim380.
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#2
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Jim
Hope yer not offended. Things sometimes get overlooked. And sometimes those that have an answer don’t get the opportunity to read every post. I’m one of the ones that don’t have an answer for you but would suggest a couple of things. First would be to do a search for your question. The search is on the right upper part of your screen. Small icon of a globe and magnifying lens. Second, a lot of procedural things commonly aren’t covered. A real help would be the CD for your SL. I bought one for my 400E from another member (Thanks again, Ross!) and when I get the opportunity to explore it, there is a wealth of information at my fingertips. You can get the CD from your local MB dealer, but the folks that run this board would love it were you to buy it from them. Hopefully someone will come along to provide further assistance. Good luck. Regards …Tracy |
#3
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Jim,
While I also do not have an answer to your particular question, I would recommend for future posts that you include the model and year of your vehicle. I only get in here a couple times a day and am only able to do a quick scan of the subjects and respond to those that catch my eye. Best of luck with your issue.
__________________
Chris '04 ML500 - 53k, Inspiration Edition, Desert Silver '11 Audi A4 Avant - Brilliant Black '87 300SDL sold '99 C280 Sport sold '85 190E 2.3 sold |
#4
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Should be a simple matter. An 81 should have multiple belts, one for the steering pump, alternator, A/C compressor and what ever driven accessories you may have. Some of these may be double belted. One or more will also drive the water pump.
Looking at the front of the engine, you will have to loosen the accessory driven by the frontmost belt, then work that belt over the fan. Continue to loosen items and removing belts until you get to the belt which drives the smog/air pump. Most of the accessories will be held in place by a minimum of two bolts, one of which will be a pivot point, none should require complete removal of the bolts to facilitate loosening the belt. Chances are the smog/air pump will be the belt closest to the block. Since you've removed all the others just to get at this one, might as well replace them all. When you tighten the accesories and belts back up, you'll want to shoot for something in the area of 3/8 inch of deflection on the belt. That means, when you push on the belts, midway between pullies, the belt will move about 3/8 inch. Too much slack and the belts will slip, too tight and you could damage bearings/seals on the accessories. That's about the best I can tell you. I know nada about the 380 or an SL, but the drive belts are a pretty generic thing. Hope it helps.
__________________
Mike Tangas '73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72 '02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis 2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel Non illegitemae carborundum. |
#5
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Not having done a smog pump belt, I would be inclined to look at the unit and it's attachment points. One of the bolts is installed through a slot, not a hole. Is that belt behind others? If so, they have to come off first, (drag). Once you get to the pump, loosen the bolts and pry the smog pump inwards to get slack. As they say in the CD, "Installation is the opposite". The main thing is that you need to pry the pump and hold it while you tighten the mounting bolts. What you pry with is tough to say. I have a large screwdriver that I have used. I have also used various other tools such as bars, hammers and wood. I like the wood because it is a little more forgiving, but you can't always fit it in there. Tighten the bolts until they strip and then back them off a bit. No wait! There is a torque setting that you could look up, but you might not be able to get a torque wrench in there. Tighten them until they are tight. If they are tight enough, the pump will be immobile. If you can pry it, then you need to tighten. Also, if the belt squeals, then you have to re-tighten.
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VR 1967 250SL |
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