Could somebody that has replaced the motor mounts on an E320 (210) give me some advice on how they were able to access that darn upper bolt on the motor mounts.

It looks like I would have to remove the alternator to get to the passenger side and the A/C compressor to get to the driver side.

Even then it is as tight as....well, you pick the word.

I have a gear wrench that should help with the upper bolt but I think I'd even need one with a pivoting end which I could buy. I don't think there is any room for a socket in there.

Lower bolts are no problem, and I am guessing that after that I just need to jack up the engine a bit with the floor jack and the mounts should slide out.

If all else fails - any recommendations for a mechanic in the MA area that would install them?

Thanks in advance!
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Ive found a stubby 16mm wrench and a long pry bar works best.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

Take a look at this topic. Flexible 3/8" ratchet works very well.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w210-e-class/1285038-just-replaced-engine-mounts.html

Bansai and John - thanks so much!

Looks like I am going to try a stubby and the flex and see which one works best.

Looks like you had the lower bolts off first and then raised the engine 1-2" before you tried the upper bolts.

Does that help with clearance?

Also, no removal of the alternator or A/C compressor? Sure seems like it would be hard getting the breaker on the stubby or long handle of the flex to fit with them in place.

Thanks again!!!

Yes, it Really does. Otherwise you need to use thin, plasticine fingers for access to upper bolts.
You need to unbolt A/C Compressor only. Don't touch A/C hoses! Just move it carefully forward. It gives you enough root to get left mount.

Good luck!

sounds good but I've never had to undo the compressor or alternator- I've always had upper and lower bolts out before I raised it too... maybe just the way I do them, hasn't ever been a problem.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

Blaine, just use right torx there.
Torque specification for A/C bolts is 25Nm.

I've not done that car but have had no luck with either a stubby wrench or a swivel rachet - not enough leverage on the short wrench and too high a leverage point on the rachet, the socket just twists off the bolt. What has worked well for me is a swivel head, racheting box wrench cut in half so that the shank is about 4 inches long. By sheer coincidence the shaft is then the perfect width for a half inch galvanized pipe cheater bar of your chosen length. Mine is from Sears - very high quality rachet with lots of teeth and no slop whatsoever, all you need is a few degrees of movement. Break it loose, remove the cheater bar and you have a nice racheting stubby wrench - bolt is out in seconds. I'll try to attach a picture.

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Dean - thanks for the tip. Hey, at this point if I can't get the upper bolt off I will cut the end off of a swivel ratchet!

Note to self: Don't get the Snap-On swivel.

Funny thing I that I have this old hollow set of steel tubing that was the handle for a bottle jack. I often use it as a expandable breaker bar with a Sears ratchet.

I may pick up a swivel gear wrench but I'll try the ratchet first.

I think I'll start this early Saturday AM while I still have time to go to get more tools before the stores close. It just seems too tight in there!

BTW - did you have to remove the AC compressor to get the left mount out?

No. I've done only 124 bodies, 103, 104 and 119 motors. On the sixes didn't need to take anything out. On the 119 driver's side I took out a section of exhaust pipe and worked from the rear. The 119 motor is quite a bit tougher than either of the straight sixes, just not sure about the V6.

OK - I did it!!!!

I have to say, it was quite a pain the first time. If I had to do it again it wouldn't be so bad.

Here are some of the details of what made my DIY work.

First, I followed the advice from "Bansai" - MUST READ!!!

Don't forget to disconnect your battery! I made a nice little fireworks show when I grounded some 12V source under there Stupid me!

First I tried a flex 16mm socket but it was too tall with a 3/8" ratchet.

The flex head 3/8" from Sears that Bansai pointed out with a 6 point 16mm socket (not 12 - don't risk rounding off that bolt!) did the trick. That ratchet can fit up in there and is long enough to break the bolt loose once you find out the right geometry. The bolts are canted toward the block so make sure your socket is aligned with the bolt before you try to break it loose. It is a serious PITA.

Once the bolt was loose I used a 16 mm flex head Gear wrench. It made backing the bolt out of the mount much easier. The flex ratchet had a longer handle than the gear wrench which made it better for getting the upper bolt loose which is why I started with it.

The 2x6 across the oil pan to distribute the force and a floor jack did the trick to gently raise the engine about 2" - yes that is all you need. Careful on this one too. I was worried about this step and took it very slow. Just raise the engine enough to get the mounts out.

I too had to take the bolts out of the A/C compressor and the small hose clamp to get the driver's side mount in and out. The passenger mount was easy to get out once the bolts were out.

Be careful aligning the pin on the mount with the upper perch. I put the upper bolt in (not fully tight) before I dropped the engine down to help keep it aligned. You might also thread the lower bolt in a bit too before you drop the motor down on the mounts.

The flex Gear wrench, a stubby ratchet, and a flex head ratchet all help a lot.

Hope that helps if others try the motor mount DIY.

Nice work.
What year is your car, how many miles are on it & how did you determine the motormounts were bad ?

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2007 C 230 Sport.

2000 E320 Wagon 90,000 mi. You can tell by the vibration you feel at idle.