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  #16  
Old 11-28-2006, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL View Post
Are you referring to my car or to "spqrzilla's" car?

How do you remove the ICV?
I consider it a regular maintenance item. Its held on by a 10mm nut.

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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma
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  #17  
Old 11-28-2006, 11:21 PM
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Thanks. Isn't there a few hoses and electrical wires hooked to it? Does the air cleaner assembly have to be removed before the ICV can be removed?
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  #18  
Old 11-29-2006, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL View Post
Thanks. Isn't there a few hoses and electrical wires hooked to it? Does the air cleaner assembly have to be removed before the ICV can be removed?
At this point, you learn more by just doing it.
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2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma
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  #19  
Old 11-29-2006, 08:45 PM
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Oh really. I guess the worse thing that can happen is that it will not start again.

At this point, this should be the last thing on my mind.... I need to focus on the steering leak now.

Thanks again
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  #20  
Old 10-22-2007, 06:18 PM
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Location: CALIF
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How To Test Fuel Pump Relay ?

My 1985 380 SE stalls every now & then...
I've located the FPR, inside the fuse box.
Removed it, and checked it for cracks,corrison, debris....
Sprayed it with Elec/connection cleaner dried it, blew out the
socket holes it fits into. No change in the stalling.
There is a crack in the plastic case along the bottom of the FPR.
Could this be the problem ?
The prongs and the recepticles are fine but the cracked case may
cause stalling ? It appears to be the original 1985 FPR.

I don't want to throw parts and wish it will fix itself.

So. How to test FPR ?
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  #21  
Old 10-22-2007, 09:05 PM
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Hi Conrad,

What are the symptoms when it stalls?

Does it start and then to die in 1-2 secs?

Does it stall at any speed?

Thanks
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  #22  
Old 10-22-2007, 09:24 PM
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Stalls.

Allo.

Will stall when coming to a stop.
Not at speed.
Fires up and purrs.
Recent new plugs, cap/rotor, air filter, fuel filter, plus
it passed the tuff Calif smog test in Aug--07.
Used some "Lubro Moly" Valve cleaner and added some
fuel injecter cleaner plus use Chevron techron gas supreme unleaded gas.

Got some clues ?

Many tks in advance.

(only had car two months.)
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  #23  
Old 10-23-2007, 08:50 PM
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Location: DFW / Collin County Texas
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Do a search here and jumper the fuel pump relay. If the car stops stalling, you found your problem. That's how I determined mine was bad.
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  #24  
Old 10-24-2007, 08:40 AM
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Even with a new FPR, mine has stalled. It has only happened right after a warm restart and then coming to a stop on a downhill slope. I've done everything I could think of, including adding the bypass pipe near the idle valve. It's infrequent enough that I'm not overly concerned with it. I just keep my eye on the tach.
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  #25  
Old 10-24-2007, 02:17 PM
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Stalls.

Allo.

My tach doesn't work all the time, and rarely goes pass 1000...
Clues on that issue ?

Is you 380 SE, the Midnight Blue

tks for reply. Now, how do I ' jump ' 7 & 8 with the paperclip ???
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  #26  
Old 10-24-2007, 05:43 PM
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PART II.

Mech says I need a new Fuel Pump Regulator (FPR).
And maybe not a FP Relay....

Maybe this will stop the stalls.

After installation & testing, I'll update.
(will take a few days for shipping).

My 1985 380 SE is Midnight Blue/Tan Lthr.
A really nice combo.
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  #27  
Old 10-24-2007, 06:09 PM
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Correction.

Should be: Fuel Pressure Regulator....
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  #28  
Old 10-24-2007, 10:13 PM
1986 300sdl 1985 380se
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: West Monroe LA
Posts: 484
Yes you could have a fuel pump relay problem. BUT You could also have a flaky idle speed control computer. It sits in the firewall next to the ABS computer. On my 85 380se when my fpr went bad, the car would not start. When my car would die at idle or when coming to a stoplight it turned out to be the idle speed control computer. They are NOT CHEAP.

Good Luck
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  #29  
Old 10-26-2007, 10:55 PM
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Location: Joliet Illinois
Posts: 309
Airflow Sensor Potentiometer

Just to add another possibility to your long list:

My car was doing the same thing you describe - stalling at idle , when stopping, and rounding corners. The problem was the airflow sensor pot was worn out. The wear occurs in the idle range first, where the wiper arm spends the most time.

I obtained a Bosch Replacement for about $80 and it cured the problem for good. The bad news is that Bosch no longer sells the part and you have to buy the entire airflow sensor (over $1000).

Do a search for airflow sensor pot and you should find plenty of info.
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  #30  
Old 10-30-2007, 10:18 AM
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Continues.

I did replace the Idle Control Module/Unit, 2 months ago, and
the car passed the Tuff Calif Smog test.

Now this vexing issue emerges.

I'm tempted to sell the car to the 1st $7999.99 offered !!!

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