That thing that looks like a sway bar is not. That is a radiator support reinforcement and it is welded in. You will definately need it. I can't see all the parts of your sway bar, but I'll bet it's OK.

make sure that you have the rear alignment checked as well seeing as it's adjustable.

Yes, I realized it is not a sway bar - I was referring to the sway bar that bolts onto the LCA with a bushing, bracket, and 2 bolts. It originally looked bent, but when everything was bolted back in, it appeared fine.

The weld on the radiator support reinforcement is still intact so I will just straighten the bar or at least get it close to where it was before.

I discussed that on the phone with the service writer - I was under the impression that there was no adjustment on the rear and that alignment was completely dependent upon the condition of the bushings (mine are still nice and tight - I checked them). I mentioned this to him, and he agreed with me. However, he states the front end is aligned relative to the track of the rear (thrust align perhaps?) and that all 4 wheels will have alignment heads on them when the vehicle is on the rack.

David, can you PM me with the name of your shop and your rate for a similar service?

Well, with the exception of fixing or replacing the front bumper, everything is complete and back to normal (or better). Had the car aligned for $67 and can now drive at 80+ mph with my hands off the wheel. Even better, I can slam on the brakes and it absolutely will not pull one bit - very straight! I took it to a shop that only deals with brakes and alignment, recommended by Karl Schweikart Mercedes who also has a good reputation on this board. I used them when I first bought the car, and my tires looked great 30K miles later.

Apparently my front camber is at the max adjustment on both sides and is a half to a full degree off, indicating that new shocks are in order. I won't let a degree bother me for now, but will monitor my inner tire wear and rotate religiously just to be sure. The main thing is that both the toe and the thrust with the rear wheels (which are also adjusted properly) is correct.

By the way, the fender squeaking has gone away on its own - magically. I couldn't be happier.

I performed an out-of-round test on the other front wheel with my primitive tool (hacksaw jammed into the handle of a gallon jug). I measured near the rim on the inside and outside, as well as the roundness of the tire at the center of the tread, and everything was perfect. So for now I am running on 3 original wheels with the spare mounted (spare got a new matching tire at Discount Tire). At some point I still plan on replacing the wheels and upgrading to 8-holes, but for now it is not imperative.

So far, this is what I have into the repairs:

089 new driver side lower control arm, balljoint, and bushings
047 new tie rod ends
005 new balljoint pinch bolt
071 new tire
003 can of paint to refinish spare wheel
067 alignment
---
282

I estimate that the bumper repair supplies (plastic repair, paint, etc.) will run me another $100.