How do I remove the the Fan-Clutch Assembly? I have the correct hex socket but the the pully keeps moving (accckkk)! My bearings are completely shot and the pully is vibrating against the block. I found my knocking problem!



Cardude

What kinda model do ya have?

1987 300E Sedan

Cardude

I replaced a fan clutch on my BMW just last month and I haven't done it on a Mercedes. But this is how I did it on my BMW. I used a 32 mm metric wrench (was specified in the BMW repair manual) and fit that on the clutch bolt. Took a hammer and tapped it semihard in CLOCKWISE direction and it loosened. I don't know for some reason atleast on BMWs, you have to unscrew it in CLOCKWISE direction. Installing it is the reverse and whole thing took me 30 minutes to do on my BMW. Hope this helps.
smk_texas
92 190E 2.6, 97kmiles
86 BMW 325E, 136K miles

Cardude - I went into the workshop this morning and got myself a fan clutch to see whats your request all about. I find its virtually impossible to open the assembly and replace the bearings. I understand that once the bearings are dried and died, its better to have the whole assembly replaced. I have not known of any successful surgery in transplanting or lubing a bearing in the fan clutch.

I hope someone else here might have done that before.

My apologies for thinking you wanted to replace the fan clutch.

Best wishes.
:)

There is a tool made for this purpose. It will hold the clutch stationary while you remove the retainer bolt. I know you can get it from Performance Products.
( http://www.************************ ) I think you may be able to get it from Parts Shop here as well (probably less expensive). Send them a request and see what they can do for you..

The special tool Jeff is talking about (Benz calls it a "bracket") cost around $60.00 CAD at the dealership. My tech is usually uses a large flat screwdriver to hold the cluch assembly while loosening the bolt at the front. If you look behind the assembly while turning it you will see the opening where you can stick the screwdriver in. Good luck.

Alex

I am working on it today, I will keep you guys posted!



Cardude

Fan Clutch Rip Off
 

The information about a "bracket or what ever is a little off base.
To remove the fan/clutch assy on a W124030 is quite simple.
After removing the fan schroude retraining clips(2 at the top corners) and laying it back out of the way, you rotate the fan pulley and insert the "Holding Tool" behind the pulley and into a notch. You can rotate the fan using a socket allen wrench until you feel the holding tool go into place. Now remove the retaining bolt.
Performance Products have the Allen Socket $6.90 and the Holding Tool $9.95.1-800-243-1220
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman of Houston!!!

Help!
 

Your directions were excellent guys thanks! So what is the (help) all about. Well the pulley will not come off. Do I need a puller of some sort or I have the wrong replacement part. I have the new bracket with the good bearings in my hand. (minus a pulley) Please send some advise, the pulley is not coming off easily.


Cardude
:(

It should come free. Try spraying the hub with some penetrating oil and tap the periphery with a plastic hammer.

Great, that did it thanks. Now to have a bit of fun with the new belt. Everything is going great, the bearing were dust with just a few remaining in place. They were all exposed, when I pulled the bracket out.



Cardude
:)

There should be a belt routing diagram in your owner's manual.

Fan Clutch Holding Tool
 

For those who want the satisfaction of fabbing their own "factory" tools, the fan clutch holder is a layup. The heavy chrome coat hangers found at most offices is the correct 3/16" OD that the manual calls for. Either look at the picture in the manual or check out the pic in the IMPCO catalog and bend your own. You only need about 1/2" bent 90 degrees at the end to catch the slot in the clutch. Then bend the shaft only about 15 degrees back towards the firewall (when the tool is in place) at a height of about 12" from the clutch end. Put a nice hook on the end to hold it on your pegboard and you're in business!

I've seen this tool between $10 and $25 in various catalogs. I've used mine several times and lent it to others. Never any complaints.

Thought this might help those that were looking at the pic and thinking, "That doesn't look like $25 worth of tool." It isn't!

accccck
 

All done well almost, I 've decided to put a new belt on also. I can not fit the new belt on the pulleys. I'm using my diagram from the owners manual. The tensioner is not giving me enough extra length to install the new belt. Is there a way around this? There is no movement in the alternator, so I can't use that method. There must be a trick or I'm moving the tensioner adjuster screw in the wrong direction.




Cardude,
:(

Whoa, make sure you have loosened the big 19mm bolt in the center of the tensioner. The adjusting nut should then turn easily to release tension. If you are releasing tension, the long adjusting rod should be screwing up into the adjuster nut.

Turning the adjusting nut clockwise TIGHTENS the belt, turning it COUNTERCLOCKWISE loosens it. But before doing that, you must lossen the big 19 mm bolt in the center of the tensioner as mentioned in the previous post.

I tried both directions nothing works. I think I have the wrong belt or something. Maybe the tensioner is bad. The nut(adjuster screw) doesn't seem stripped either, but maybe it is. I'm sure I have the big nut (19mm) super loose at this point. Any more clues would be great.

Cardude,
:)

Be Careful
 

If you are having a problem getting the tensioner to move, be certain you have loosened the nut on the retaining/pivot point bolt. If you don't it is definite you will twist the adjust bolt OFF.
Mike Yox, your DIY pulley stop qualifies you as a member in the Order of El Cheapo.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman in Houston!!!

Sounds like I'm in good company! :)

I'm assuming you're replacing the serpentine belt on an M103 engine.

There are two different size belts available. One for a non-A/C engine; one for A/C equipped engines. Could it be you were sold a belt for the non-A/C engine which is SHORTER?

Almost Complete, thanks for all the help guys. Need to take a few test drives and check the tension on the belt.

This forum rules.:)

Cardude

[Edited by Cardude on 05-12-2001 at 09:56 PM]

tensioner
 

A little advise , after you loosen the 19mm on front of tensioner back out the tensioner adj bolt 10 turns . This will make the belt loose enough to remove and re-install going in 10 turns ,then ck for tension you may have to go one or two more in for correct tension but it cuts down on confusion.

Good luck all.