just-n-time here with some new questions,First I will try to explain what I did and then give you all the numbers.
All of the tests were done koeo,The harnesses were air pot switch, the ICV
harness,The EHA harness The x11 unit.
I made the test with both analog and digital,so you will see the diff. in the #'s. All readings at r/x-1.
1-pot switch...pin 1&3 4,ohm....1&2...1.2 ohm...3&2...5.4ohm.(#1 pic)

The rest of this testing was done with digital system.
Same test,@2m on the meter. 1&3. (.004) 1&2. (.001) 3&2. (.005)
At 200k............................. 1&3. (4.2) 1&2. (1.3) 3&2. (5.4)

ICV harness.
pin 1&2..(70.8) ....pin 1 to grd (69.1) pin 2 grd.(01.0)

EHA harness.
pin 1&2 ....(45.1)... p1 to grd..(44.3)black wire p2 to grd. (00.7) brown black stripe

EHA p1&2 = 00.0

x11. 1 (24.8) 2 (grd) 3 (02.2) 4 (0) 5 (0) 6 (1--.-) 6-9 same

Attached Thumbnails

       

Another set of Numbers, after some time I thought I would test some in dc 20
on the digital meter,I got the following.
pot switch 1&2 0 1&3 0 2&3 0 at the switch
harness koeo 1&2 0 1&3 4.86 2&3 4.62
harness connected, k on 1&2 0.10 1&3 4.79 2&3 4.68
after I shut the key off and retried the same test I got no readings at the harness disconnected dont know why.
EHA dc 20 kon got a 1.38
running .09 to .30 cold eng.
ma .16 to.43
both readings fluctuating rapidly
EHA never below 0.08 at 2.5k

I should have looked here first, just sent you a proceedure on the old thread.

Wow data overload
The pot switch is really a potentiometer -a variable resistor. The resistance changes as the plate is sucked down into the air horn. Read ohms and push the plate down. It should be a smooth change with no dropouts all the way. There are some pic on other threads of the insides and the resistance film can wear through, one guy just moved the wiper over to get new film and a temp fix.

Great! "EHA dc 20 kon got a 1.38, running .09 to .30 cold eng. ma .16 to.43" Sounds like you got the meter in the circuit right and you are getting a positive .2ma =-.1 cold engine, .3+-.1 warmed up?

"both readings fluctuating rapidly, EHA never below 0.08 at 2.5k" Expect that. Its not adjusted right. But great you got the data!

Now read my long thing at the other thread so I don't have to explain how to adjust it here. Simply: Adjust the EHA 1/8 ccw and see if current goes up or down. You want it to go down and end up at 0+-.1, Then readjust mix to 50% check 2000 mix and idle rpm.

Isn't 50% charging voltage on pin4 ~ 13.8/2=6.9V?? There is a thread on this, may be DIY. I've been using the dwell meter not the V meter.

Ok partner, will get to work in the AM. good night.j-n-t

Well I started on the car again and made a wire connector for the EHA. This
harness is made with male and female fittings to plug in at both ends of the
EHA and harness,made up a wire so I could place meter in series. My first reading I got 4.25 cold warm -7.47 running temp. -9.87 this was on a digital
meter.I backed the allen screw ccw 1/8th and got 3.89, I then reopened the
EHA backed off (ccw),1/8 more now it will only hit long enough to burn off the cold start shot of fuel,I have gone up and down as much as 12 full turns will not stay lit so I have missed the mark at the fuel mix how do I find that
spot to make it run?

I got to thinking about the electrical portion of all this,who supplies what?
My thoughts started with where did the eha get its electrical readings from?
Let me know if I am thinking correctly!
EHA gets supply from ECU and that is supplied from the o2 sensor the potentiometer gets it from the ecu and o2?

Wow again. Where did you ge the connectors? -9.87? is that ma, just checking...
Big number. says its pretty far off, then you only turned 1/8 and got 3.89? Did you readjust the mix? 3.9 is a lot closer than -9.9 AND the sign change says you went past 0 in 1/8 turn. Sounds way too sensitive. But again, you didn;t say you did the necessay mix adjustment. Then 12 turns???, wow you were supposed to be looking for 0.0ma +-.1 ma. Soundslike you either have a defective EHA or your adjustment technique "needs refinement."

I'll go out and play a little, But I suggest you look up Evaluating Electronic Engine Controls in DYI and search M.B.DOC he replied to you a while back.
Moderator Also My LAST ovp/eha question, I promise!!!! is a long read but several good tests and explanations.

For some reason I could not get the proper settings with the meter so I picked up another and am able to get much closer to what other people are saying in other post I have read if you go to the EHA post you will see the new readings and I think they are much more like those we needed.
As for the 12 turns it was the air mix setting the 3MM adjustment and resetting the EHA cured the problem

Made it from connectors in my electrical supply box, used two plug in's one male one female round plugs not blade, and two in line,put the test leads in and crimped they will pull out of the but connector when done and gives you enough room to pull EHA with out unplugging every time you need to turn the
2MM screw.

Well I am not sure if I am done with the EHA but THE numbers are looking good I may still be a little high by the % figures,NOW on to the potentiometer
the ohm reading was taken this morning,and at RX1K I have p 1&2=3.6 to 9 as you push the flap down and it is not a smooth flow p2&3 8 to 10 then as the flap is full open it drops to 5 ohm pin 1&3 is at 4.5 with no change.
P 1&2 3.6 to 9
p 2&3 8 to 10 full open 5
p1&3 4.5 no change jnt