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trueog 01-23-2007 10:56 PM

Mixing Dino Oil and Syn to Make Syn Blend, Good Idea?
 
Hey guys, I am currently using 15W40 dino oil for my W202 C-Class. In the past i've heard some honda techs talk about mixing a little bit of Synthetic oil with Dino oil to enhance the properties of the oil and ease the burden of an aging car from pumpin the thicker dino oil.Personally I see using 100% syn.oil in my car as a waste of money as it doesn't require it.

Would this seem to be a good idea? perhaps using 75% dino oil and 25% syn oil to make a blend. Does anyone see any benefits by doing this? and what are your thoughts on this idea? I'd like to hear ur input on this idea.

thanks,

deanyel 01-23-2007 11:16 PM

It's probably a question of whether it makes you feel better - the engine really isn't going to care whether you use petro, synthetic or a mixture.

TMAllison 01-23-2007 11:30 PM

If you are concerned about the weight of your oil and/or your cars ability to pump it around, go to 0/40, 5/40, or even 5/30.

Changing dino oil every 3-5K would prob make a bigger impact than blending.

uberwgn 01-24-2007 08:46 AM

Keep it simple,
 
3 Attachment(s)
follow mfr's rec and you won't have to be second-guessing your personal brew:

BrazBenz 01-24-2007 09:45 AM

Nowadays mixing oils equals mixing a lot of aditives.
This may mean LOTS of trouble.
So, there is no simple answer.
I'd say: Use either the manuf. spec or better.
Probably the best compromising is a semi-synth - a kind of technically made mix. (btw semi-synths may appear in the manuf. lists)
Jorge

PS: When I mean better I mean: better but included in the manufacturer list. Because of sludge many manufacturers are moving toward synthetics. I am moving from semi to full - concluded that the price ticket is not that big and it is always a cheap insurance policy vis a vis servicing a MB.

Kestas 01-24-2007 10:26 AM

I believe many semisynthetics are regular oil blended with 20% synthetic stock, so you're essentially accomplishing the same thing.

You may want to post your question on the following web site:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/forums/postlist.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB1

cool 01-24-2007 10:33 AM

why bother toying around with the oil, your car deserve a mineral base oil, you'll thank me for it ones you encounter gumming on the cylinder head with using blended or synthetic oil on your C class. then your nightmare of uneven idling and all types of internal combustion problem will haunt your C class.

Stay safe no need to fancy all those oil stuff. follow strick periodic preventive maintenance.

lkchris 01-24-2007 11:25 AM

Funny how nobody needs a degree in chemistry when it comes to engine oil!

trueog 01-25-2007 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cool (Post 1398222)
why bother toying around with the oil, your car deserve a mineral base oil, you'll thank me for it ones you encounter gumming on the cylinder head with using blended or synthetic oil on your C class. then your nightmare of uneven idling and all types of internal combustion problem will haunt your C class.

Stay safe no need to fancy all those oil stuff. follow strick periodic preventive maintenance.

I find what you're saying to be very interesting...I had no idea that a semi-syns and full syns. can cause gumming in my engine. I was always under the impression that with dino oil, changing it on a regular basis will reduce the chances of sludge build up....but the way you put it, synthetic is no better either for making life easier on the engine for longevity reasons.....

I simply thought the blend would make sludging less of an issue, and make life easier for the engine to pump oil on those cold mornings.....:dizzy2:

Kestas 01-25-2007 09:32 AM

Trueog, I wouldn't put a lot of stock in cool's post. Your engine will NOT gum up because of this brew you're proposing, not any more than usual. Except for additive clash - which I suspect is not a serious concern - I see no harm in beefing up regular oil with synthetic.

mpolli 01-25-2007 01:24 PM

Truog,

I thought by now someone would finally ask you what model/engine you have. So, what is it? Uberwgn is correct IMHO. Certainly, the M111 had sludging with std oil and there was a class action suit about it. The mfg now requires synthetic in those. Your climate is mild so you don't necessarily need the extreme cold flowability of a 0W. My decision would also depend on whether the engine is burning any oil or not.

Mike

trueog 01-28-2007 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kestas (Post 1399362)
Trueog, I wouldn't put a lot of stock in cool's post. Your engine will NOT gum up because of this brew you're proposing, not any more than usual. Except for additive clash - which I suspect is not a serious concern - I see no harm in beefing up regular oil with synthetic.

See I based the whole thing on some honda techs recommending it as being benificial for an aged veichle. I see it the same way as you do, I thought there was no harm in beefing up the chemistry of the oil. I know straight Syn in my car is a waste, and on top of that I run oil in very short intervals. Thanks for the input

stephenson 01-28-2007 10:30 PM

Oil threads are so cool!

Opinions are like ... well, you know.

Sludging is caused by not changing the lubricant often enough - dino oils require changing more often - whether it is a MB or a Toyota. MB went to synthetics so it could stick with the increased intervals for changing - the same intervals that were causing sludging with dino oils.

Synthetics are clearly better - in every respect. They are being increasingly specified because of this. "Honda techs" discussing mixing oils is pretty funny ...

Switch to synthetic - any major brand of synthetic is significantly better than any dino oil. Just a fact.

Oil threads are so cool!

greasybenz 01-28-2007 10:32 PM

i had just bought mobil 10w30 synthetic blend for $1.99/quart at kragen. Im planning to use it in the S420 once the next oil is due for a change, currently it has mobil 1 5w30.

It seems as though the car gets better mileage with a synthetic. And this was the same with my diesel. Back when i had the 300SD i used delo 400 15w40, performance wise it was the same clackity ol diesel. But when i switched the the 5w40 synthetic my mpg's went up and the cold starts were better.

Id say the best choice would be either a full synthetic or a synthetic blend. But a synthetic blend that wasnt done by mixing two different oils even if they were both of the same weight and brand.

Tomguy 01-28-2007 11:41 PM

I too love oil threads.

Let's put it this way: My Jeep has 167k miles on it. I always ran a conventional or synthetic blend (usually 4x4 synth blend). This most recent change, I took out conventional Pennzoil 10w30 (the worst oil I've ever used in it) and replaced it with Mobil-1 5w30. So far, it's been the best oil I've ever put in it.

The ticking is almost completely gone from the engine (except when stone cold on sub-25°F days). Also, I was getting 14.5-15MPG with the conventional. Without changing my driving conditions at all (cruise at the same speed) I am now getting 15.5-17MPG. My last tank claims 18.0MPG according to my receipt, but I think I may have missed a possible gallon at fill up. That would still put me at 16.67 though...

I never thought it would make such a difference in such an old engine that doesn't even have overhead cams. I was wrong.

Spook74 01-29-2007 01:33 AM

Mixing Dino Oil and Syn to Make Syn Blend, Good Idea?
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by greasybenz (Post 1402925)
<snip>
It seems as though the car gets better mileage with a synthetic. And this was the same with my diesel. Back when i had the 300SD i used delo 400 15w40, performance wise it was the same clackity ol diesel. But when i switched the the 5w40 synthetic my mpg's went up and the cold starts were better.
</snip>

The increase in mileage there was probably due to the change to the thinner viscosity of the 5w vs 15w! A thinner oil is easier to pump! The question is whether it is appropriate for your climate/weather before the next change.

By spec, synthetics are supposed to be compatible with dino oils. That said, mixing to obtain a particular viscosity or just to save money is compromising the additive packages, and who knows what you'll get. Why not just use what is recommended by the manufacturer and change it at the recommended intervals. They have indeed done a lot of study on what oils to approve. Why try to second guess them? There are plenty on the list that do not cost an arm and a leg. Check out their listing at http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html.

Gerry Visel

trueog 02-05-2007 12:00 AM

Has anybody tried the Quaker State SUV Semi Syntetic 15W40 ? It says for SUV's on it, but i figure it should work fine on any dino taking mercedes. Has anyone out there tested it out yet?

hk20000 02-05-2007 12:20 AM

I hear that you can't do that mixing thing with Royal Purple oil. That's because the "purple" thing is some special ingredients that doesn't mix with dino oil very well.

RP is great stuff.

trueog 02-27-2007 04:35 PM

Best Oil
 
CLEAR WINNER! Quaker State SUV Semi Syntetic 15W40

I have switched over to this oil, and oh boy what a difference it makes! My car hasn't ran this well and felt so powerful in a long time. It's great for Dino car's and gives the added Synthetic properties. I personally have had a great experiance using this oil in my C-Class and would recommend it to everyone. The only odd thing is the bottle saying its a blend for SUV's, but 15W40 is what I need.

I only know one place in canada where they sell it: LORDCO $4.59/litre

For the US, I don't know.

stephenson 02-27-2007 04:47 PM

If you are so pleased with semi-syn, just think of the possibilities of using a full syn - better cold starting, longer drain intervals, far better wear characteristics, etc.

trueog 02-27-2007 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stephenson (Post 1433361)
If you are so pleased with semi-syn, just think of the possibilities of using a full syn - better cold starting, longer drain intervals, far better wear characteristics, etc.

Problem is I can't find 15W40 in full synthetic....

Kestas 02-27-2007 11:46 PM

I can only chuckle when I hear someone talk about how "well and powerful" their car runs just from switching oil type... a true definition of the word "placebo".

t walgamuth 02-28-2007 12:27 AM

i mix them sometimes.

tom w

Tomguy 02-28-2007 01:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kestas (Post 1433886)
I can only chuckle when I hear someone talk about how "well and powerful" their car runs just from switching oil type... a true definition of the word "placebo".

Or a real way to tell if someone knows something about the way their car runs or not. I know what every tick, knock squeak and squeal is in every one of my cars (except for a squeak in the tailgate of my Jeep I dont care about fixing at this time). And I can tell if they become quieter (or stop all together). I would only hope to god's sake other people can tell the same.

Spook74 02-28-2007 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tomguy (Post 1403020)
I too love oil threads.

Let's put it this way: My Jeep has 167k miles on it. I always ran a conventional or synthetic blend (usually 4x4 synth blend). This most recent change, I took out conventional Pennzoil 10w30 (the worst oil I've ever used in it) and replaced it with Mobil-1 5w30. So far, it's been the best oil I've ever put in it.

The ticking is almost completely gone from the engine (except when stone cold on sub-25°F days). Also, I was getting 14.5-15MPG with the conventional. Without changing my driving conditions at all (cruise at the same speed) I am now getting 15.5-17MPG. My last tank claims 18.0MPG according to my receipt, but I think I may have missed a possible gallon at fill up. That would still put me at 16.67 though...

I never thought it would make such a difference in such an old engine that doesn't even have overhead cams. I was wrong.

Tomguy,

Go to http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html for a complete list of MB approved oils for your car. (You can't go wrong following the manufacturer's recommendations!)

The findings listed there may surprise you:
"...some oils which are not recommended:
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 0W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 9.7 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 9.8 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3
Mobil 1 SuperSyn 10W-30 SL/SJ/CF A1/B1/A5 10.1 doesn't meet 229.1 nor ACEA A2 or A3
These 3 oils do not meet MB spec of > 3.5 cP for high temperature high shear strength."

You will find very few xxW30 weight oils that are approved.

Personally, I find 3000 mile changes to be a total waste of good oil, as the additives of today can easily go two or three times that and more. If you really want to know, start doing oil sampling and see real facts for yourself rather than taking someone's opinion.

Gerry

Tomguy 02-28-2007 10:16 PM

The Mobil website suggests either 5w30 or 10w30 for my Jeep, depending on what temperature I put on the chart.
I used 5w30 for the winter - considering the Jeep is never garaged and I usually only drive it to work in the harshest weather (ice cold temps less than 20F, snow etc). I have no leaks, and I am only about 0.5q low after 1200 miles. I'd never put 5w30 in if I didn't have faith in my engine for it to not burn it like gas, or blow it by every seal (since I maintain the vehicle quite well). For my Chrysler, the Mobil 1 site recommends 10w30 - and that's what I used in it. It's also what the manual calls for. If I try a 2007 Chrysler 300 Limited (same engine) it still says 10w30. Now, if you can tell me why 10w40 is better for either one than the oils I put in, I might change viscosities. But I will not put a dino oil in my engines! :)


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