do you still need a solution or proceedure to fix your problem? or has your problem been addressed?

willing to help you walk thru the sequence for checking why your MB stalls

Muhahahhaa that's exactly why someone sold me this car for cheap, they just think it's a 1400 repair that might not work but I got away with a perfectly healthy car for 75CAD worth of parts.

-Benz-LGB

I was reading your post on your 300TE 1989, SSS, more than an adventure ... here's the link to Benz-LGB thread:

Need help with stalling 1989 300TE

What a Saga!!! you track the problem from May 2002 up to what 2005 does it still ok now?? Or does it still suffer from the SSS??

As I mention on the beginning of this thread the goal here is to get as much info as we can from people like you who goes throught the SSS and find the solution.

With the symptoms and solution we have troubleshooting experience.

Reading your post I learned some difference between your Stalling cause by HES and the Stalling on the C220 1995 from Hk20000 cause by an OVP.

Here how I will check next time if the Stalling was cause by the Hall Effect Speed Sensor(HES) this is his real name in fact.
Reading my Shop manuel teach me that this sensor was a Vehicule Speed Signal and it is process by the control module.

-Symptoms:
- the engine stall on coasting and deceleration
- Abs light: Off
- Easy to restart after stalling
- The last one I learn it from you. You mention in one of your post.

"" On the way home I took the car to a deserted country road near where I live. I tested the car by accelerating hard (it accelerates like a rocket) and then coming to an abrupt stop. No stalling. ""(from your post #8)

By doing an abrupt stop do we by-pass the Hall Effect Speed Sensor??? It look right to me for your year and MB model.
Time will tell if this way of checking it will work with different model.

Thanks again
Max

After the car began stalling (as described in my last post on that thread) again, I returned to Enrique.

It was at that point that we replaced the HES and (here it is where the supertitious part of me takes over) the car has been running fine ever since.

as an aside: I was so concerned with the stalling that we bought my daughter a Certified 2002 C320 sports wagon. What a wonderful wagon/car!

We kept the 300TE, which I drive on a regular basis. The W124 wagons are great cars.

Hope that the info on my thread helps you out!

__________________
Current Benzes

1989 300TE "Alice"
1990 300CE "Sam Spade"
1991 300CE "Beowulf" RIP (06.1991 - 10.10.2007)
1998 E320 "Orson"
2002 C320 Wagon "Molly Fox"

Res non semper sunt quae esse videntur

My Gallery

Not in this weather!

SSS factsheet:

Car model: 230TE
Year: 1992
Chassis Model: W124
Engine Model: 111.960 ?
Mileage(km/miles): 285000
State: Norway
Last tune-up (km/miles):
-Spark plug: Bosch. changed 1 week ago
-S/P Cable: Bosch
-Rotor: ?
-Cap: ?

What kind of sudden stalling do you experience?

-Deceleration: ( this when your release the accelerator and put your feet on the brake pedal)

-Playing music: When playing music at maximum volume while idle the oil pressure gauge and rpm stalls. It has stopped two times by this, don't know if the high powered stereo is the problem..

Does all the instrument and light are working in your dashboard?

-Temp gauge: Y
-Oil pressure gauge: Y
-Tachometer: Y
-Fuel Gauge: Y
-Alternator Gauge: Does not exist
-Abs light: Y
-Srs light: Y
-Engine light: Does not exist
-O2 sensor light: Does not exist
-all the other light : Y
P.S. some model do not have a O2 light sensor but instead they have a check engine light.

STALLING INFO:

How often does it Stall:

-Random: When driving in R then taking it to D the engine sometimes stops. And always when I'm first in a "traffic light" (dont know in english), the engine always stops, not if I'm second, lol. It stalls more and more often. But sometimes, like some few days it can be 100% healthy.

Does Any light come on or flikering before it Stall?:

-ABS light: Y - ABS light may come on or flikering without a stall too.

Engine Temp when stalling: 80-115

Outside Temp when Stalling: Does not exist

Fuel gauge reading: N

Alternator's reading: Does not exist

Ac/Heater on or off: On and Off

Heated seat on or off: Does not exist

Does it Start easy after Stalling:

-Sometimes it start easy sometimes i have to wait 2 minutes to 20 hours.

After stalling when you get the engine running:

-The idle is smooth (specify RPM):
-The idle go up and down(specify RPM): 350-1000

If the idle go up and down does it settle to normal after:

-I stop the engine for few :
-Hours (specify): 2

Deceleration Stalling:

-If you put the car in neutral at the same time you decelerate does it stall?? N

- If you double pedal (one feet on the brake one feet one the throttle) and keep the RPM over 1500 does it stall?? N

Troubleshooting and Diagnostic

Which procedure have you follow to troubleshoot your problem?

-Personal procedure
I'm not a mechanic, but I've tried something on my own.

Which part(s) have you replaced and why??

-I'm going to replace the ovp after I read it could be that on this forum. And the ABS light is going on and off all the time.

-I've changed oil, spark plugs, battery, and had fuel condens remover but none of them fixed the problem.
All because I got tips to do it.

Do you do any other maintance to the car at same time??

- I also replaced the air filter with a Kingdragon sportfilter.

How long since you fixe-it?

-A week and more then a month

Comment:

I've had this stalling problem since january 2008, hope it will get fixed soon.
I can't trust my car.

If it only stalls when you are playing loud music it probably is related to low voltage caused by the high power stereo system. Check your voltage under these conditions to see if your voltage is low (less than 11 volts could cause a problem). If the voltage is low check the alternator voltage regulator brushes for wear and replace as required. You may also need to install a higher capacity alternator (some of the 70A alternators barely charge at idle) and battery to continue listening to your stereo at high volume at idle. Mark

Hi,

It's been a long time since my last post, I still have the Mb 190e with a 2.6 engine.

Last winter was a mild one -14C° at the coolest so the Mb never stall.

This winter it is different story, we already have some -20C° on a few morning.

Yesterday it was -17C°, so I drive wifey to work... The car stall at the exact same convenience store as usual.

Wifey just get out of the whitout a word and walk the 150 meters to there work place , leaving me with a stalled car.

I get a coffee at the convenience store and wait about 20 minutes.

Get in the car, put the throttle to the floor, crank the engine, after 15 to 20 seconde the engine start. I notice I'm a little bit low on fuel, a quarter tank.

I get to the pump to fill the car, when I open the gaz cap I hear a big Woosh. This start me to think this not normal...

I get back home and pull out my old Mb shop manual to find out that the maximun vacuum on my gaz tank should be 1-16 mbar and the pressure should not exceed 30-50 mbar. A milibar is 14.5psi divided by 1000, to make short, nothing that you might hear or feel when you open your gaz cap.

This morning it was -20C°, before she leave I open the gaz cap and let him loose so the air could go in the tank.

Success , the mb never stall and wifey was smilling at me when she get out of the car.

I will test all the parts for the evaporative emission system and report to you the one that was in trouble.

I' m just curious how many of you guys with a SSS car have pressure or vacuum in your gaz tank???

Easy to test just open your gaz cap after you make a ride with the car if you hear a Woosh, you a problem with your evaporative emission system.

Take care

Max

Car model: 300TE
Year: 1988
Chassis Model: 124.090?
Engine Model: 124.090?
Mileage(km/miles): It was about 70,000
State: California
Last tune-up (km/miles): 65,000
-Spark plug: HD9CO
-S/P Cable: Bosch
-Rotor: New Bosch (80k miles)
-Cap: New Bosch (80k miles)

What kind of sudden stalling do you experience?
Would usually stall at lights, but it did also stall while driving regardless of acceleration/deceleration.

Does all the instrument and light are working in your dashboard?
Yes until it actually stalled then all came on.

STALLING INFO:

How often does it Stall:
-Random:


Resolved with new OVP. Never stalled again.

__________________
2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Hi

I test all the components on the emission from the canister to the gaz tank.

I find out the air vent valve was frozen from condensation.

I just used a hair dryer to dry the condensation in the valve. Now it is working fine.

I do still have the SSS problem. It stall a few time since my last post.

I' m now working with a duty cycle tester and I built the code reader from Arthur Dalton design.

The first few code I retreive was more or less junk because I was testing some component and propably create does code.

Over the week-end after I erase the junk code the car stall again....

The code I retreive was code7 and code27

Code 7 = Rpm signal
Code 27 = Ignition contol unit

The procedure for both of this code seams to point tower the EZL(ignition control unit) as the problem. I do check all the component related to the EZL, crank sensor, temp sensor, coil, throttle valve switch, reference resistor and all wiring according to the procedure, they where all within the spec.

I do have one ground broken, the one from the intake manifold to the left of the wheelhouse under coil.

I took the decision to change the EZL ignition unit.

Will see tomorrow the weather forcast say -26 C°.

Max

Hi

Yep, it was -21C° this morning, no wind, thanks god....

The MB stall again this morning, nice weather to do test outside...

I still have the code 7 and 27 this morning, I test the crank sensor and it was within the spec. (985 ohms), plug it back and the car won't run.

I wait for 15 minutes or so and it just start back like nothing ever happens.

Here's my question:

What could cause this two code 7 and 27 other than the ignition module ?

This Stalling Syndrome start in winter 2006, never get worst or never get better since than.

Same sh***t different winter

Max

The crank position sensor frequently passes the tests even when bad. I would replace it. Also, this is a previous post of mine citing my experince with this issue.

I recently had intermittent ignition problems with my 91 300TE (245K miles). The car first started missing intermittently when warm and then after 50 total miles of operation since the intermittent missing began refused to start warm (it had the audacity to leave me stranded for the first time in the 130K miles I have owned it. After the car cooled down it started and ran fine a couple of times until it finally wouldn't start cold. When attempting to start the car at this point the engine locked up (I wondered if the timing chain had slipped a tooth or two) and backfired through the intake manifold (indicating improper ignition timing) before it finally wouldn't "fire" anymore. Although I could hear the fuel pumps operating, I sprayed starting fluid into the air cleaner and cranked the car to make sure it was getting fuel. It didn't fire once. Next, I cranked the car with the coil wire disconnected from the distributor and observed a healthy spark firing at what seemed to be the appropriate intervals. I checked the distributor rotor and since the resistance of the rotor appeared too high I replaced it with a new rotor I had available. Still no start. I suspected the CPS or the EZL was the culprit. Since it was easy to check the status of the CPS, I measured the resistance (800 Ohms) and the cranking voltage (.4V AC) and found all to be within specs. Although I am not in the habit of throwing parts at a problem, since I needed to make sure the car was operable within a very short time period, I ordered a coil and CPS from an online source and purchased a used EZL from ebay. I installed the ignition coil first (the easiest to do) and the car wouldn't start. Next, I installed the used EZL (next easiest to install) and the car wouldn't start. Finally, I installed the CPS and the car started without problem. When I removed the old CPS I noticed that the seal around the wires at the sensor itself had failed and moisture/oil had penetrated the area. It is a mystery to me why the voltage and resistance measurements of the old CPS were within spec and the system appeared to have good spark but I guess that happens sometimes. Because of the backfires I did try to use my timing light to get an idea of the timing situation but because the light was not bright enough at cranking speed, I could not confirm that the timing was off (although I know it was due to the backfiring). I pose this question to the experts like stevebfl, etc.---How could a defective CPS presumably retard ignition timing to where the engine won't run yet still seemingly operate the EZL/ignition coil properly?

Mark

Hi Mark

I do some test on sunday with the crank sensor.

After I erase the code 7 and 27 I start the engine and let it run to engine temp and unplug the crank sensor from the EZl, the car stop.

Take my code reader and read the code from my diagnostic socket(16pin) no code at all, just code 1 (no fault).

I do that five time in a row just to make sure the ECU doesn't need more than 1 time fault to register.

Even after 5 times no code show

After replacing the EZL monday I erase the 2 code. No code yesterday night.

After stalling this morning code 7 and 27 show up again.

The duty cycle with the new EZL is +/- 38% engine warm at idle and +/- 50 % at 2000rpm. A Little bit to rich...

To the expert here, which part most often cause code 7 and code 27

Max

i would suggest that you replace the crank position sensor and be done with your problem.for years these devices gave no trouble and then they started to fail when they got warmed up.if you then wait until they cool down the car will start again.i'm beginning to believe that beyond 15yrs is the magic time frame[surely they are still under warranty ha ha].

__________________
David S Poole
European Performance
Dallas, TX
4696880422

"Fortune favors the prepared mind"
1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator)
2000 Mercedes Benz C280
http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg

Hi

Thanks guy for your inside, it was -26C° this morning the cars do not stall but when she park the car the idle was surging from 500 to 1500 rpm.

I read the code, no code...

Anyone wanna do a test for me ??

If you have a 190e with a new crank sensor install or a non stalling 190e.

Here's the test:

Engine at 80C°

Key Off

Unplug the crank sensor from the ignition module, set your multimeter to ohms and test your sensor this should give you 800-1200ohms.

What's your reading ???

Then set your multimeter to AC volt connect the red wire in the midlle of your crank sensor cable and the black wire to the body ground.

Turn key on:

Reading ???

Crank the engine:

Reading ???

I just want to compare with mine before I order a new one.

Thanks for your help

Max