Hello all,

I would like to first thank everyone for all their help in this project. I really appreciate it. I got the machined head back from the shop on Friday and spent the better part of yesterday putting it back in. Everything went together perfectly. Only one minor problem with the re-installation, loose fuel line. Once that was tightened, started right up. I am still having some other problems like the windows in the rear don't work but that is for a later date. Soon. One thing about the tach. It doesn't work. There is a blue wire in the engine cluster that I may have broken. I don't know for sure. Most of them are brittle from the engine heat. Is this perhaps connected to the tach? I also replaced the heater core and had the dash off. I guess what I am asking is... is there any easy way to identify where the problem is? As in the past, I would certainly appreciate any help.

Kodiak

I forgot to mention. I have more pix and I invite everyone to see the project at: http://www.users.fast.net/~effort/mb

Excellent!
 

This seems like a big job. How would you rate your experience/ability prior to this job? How would you rate the difficulty level of doing it? Was this site your primary resource for tech information? If not, where else did you go for help? How much did the project end up costing you? You referred to this as a "top end". What all did you actally do to the car? Rings, valves giudes...?

I am very interested in your response. I have a 190E 2.3 that I suspect may need similar work. I have never done a project like this and I'm being very cautious about evaluating the job before I start (If I do it at all). I have yet to determine exactly what my car needs, and I may pay to have it done, anyway.

I have learned a lot about this car in the few months that I've had it. Mostly from reading posts on this website.

I loved the photos, how is it running after the head work?

what was the dash removed for? real nice photos.......
William Rogers....

Thanks guys for the interest and responses. I can't stress enough how much I like this board. The information that passes through it is incredible. My wife thinks I am nuts, I just sit here sometimes for hours and learn. Anyway, first let me start with:
1. William Rogers- I had the dash off to replace the heater core. One day while driving a couple of weeks ago, coolant just poured out onto my leg. While it was in the garage I figured I may as well go ahead and start the imminent head work that needed to be done.
2.Machnumber 2- Don't know yet. I took it up the block and back and it was fine. I was sure it wouldn't start (just my luck) and the first time I turned the key it didn't. I forgot to tighten down one of the fuel lines. After I did that, within 2 seconds of the key turn it was purring. I couldn't believe it. I discovered another small problem which I am fixing before I let my wife drive it. I have posted some other little issues which have gone unanswered. No tach and oil level light is on. I am a little nervous about the oil light. Thing is, I had the dash off so it could very well be something from that as well. To answer your question though... Great.
3.Rodega- All the work was in the head. 8 new valves, new guides, seals, cam, lifters, and rockers. I took the head to a local machine shop where they cleaned it, machined the mating surface, re-cut the valve seats and re-installed the valves and springs. I lost track but with all that and a couple tools as well as a new belt, plugs and odds and ends it cost around $1,200. I think well worth it. I have the cd-rom manual as well as the Haynes book and a MB chassis manual. As far as experience, it was my first "head re-build" but I had taken a few engines apart in the past. I had a 258 straight 6 in a '79 CJ-7 (Jeep) that I pretty much completely tore down. It was comforting to know that if I did get stuck this resource was here. The reason I did it in the first place was cause I was burning about 1 qt. of oil every 3-500 miles, a nasty tap that was progressively getting worse and a loss of power. If you do decide to go ahead with it I would recommend that you use the Fast Lane. You can check some of my other posts for my experiences with them. Also, you need a good set of tools and don't forget to pick up that pesky #12 internal drive tool to remove the head. (you can get that at nearly any good automotive store) oh yeah and maybe a couple of real real good friends, they helped me out alot. Please check out the pix of my job at: http://www.users.fast.net/~effort/mb and feel free to e-mail me with any questions.
hamburgk@yahoo.com
Good luck if you decide to do it. All tolled I had about 15 hrs. in it.

I am impressed!!!
 

What a difference! I know my car is going to need a valve job sooner or later but, I am still unsure if I should have the satisfaction of doing it myself or let the pro's do it. Since the price is about the same ($1500 vs $1200, in your case). I do have some questions for you: how did you pick the machine shop? do they specialize in MB engines or are they a "general" machine shop? where did you get the tools?

Excellent pix!
 

That dash removal job looked nasty. Its inevitable to do a job like that with out breaking at least one wire or clip.

I always dig the sight of freshly rebuilt parts. What were you using that puller for? Is that the chain tnsioner bolt? I havent had the head off yet, but will eventually.

Herr Leber,
Yeah, I know, it is probably just some loose wires. I am just trying to avoid pulling the dash again. Maybe just the instrument cluster.
In answer to your question the puller is being used to pull a pin out of the chain guide. I inserted a 6mm bolt and then rigged the puller. It's a little dirty but it got it done. It actually was a pretty fun project.

J. Hidalgo,

The machine shop choice was actually a result of proximity and referral. I work up in the sticks above Bethlehem Pa. where these shops are readily available. The shop has a reputation for doing pretty good work. I would have to agree. They definately do not specialize in MB. In fact, I was known as "the guy with the MB head", obviously there weren't too many of them there. Like I said, good reputation and lots of experience, what's the difference when it comes to machining? I know the price seems a little expensive but keep in mind that I replaced everything in the head except the cam gear. All Brand New. I think with most valve jobs, they will re-use as much as possible. I don't really know for sure but I would assume.
Beyond the regular metric sockets, you need a #12 internal drive tool which as I said is available at most good automotive shops. (it looks like a torx bit but with 12 points) I will take a pic and post it later if I remember. The puller and rig came from Sears Home Hardware. As far as I can remember that is all of the "unusual tools".