Replacing that oil pan is a job. Try to find a way around that if you can.

__________________
2012 E350
2006 Callaway SC560

chris,
I seem to have the same oil leak on my 87 300e, especially after a one-time use of Mobil Clean 10w-30 ( I usually use 10w-40). Anyway, I re-tightened the oil filter, which was loose, and that helped, but I still get wet spots under the car. Oil level and oil pressure senders are dry. Seems like the oil filter stand gasket is the culprit. Shop manual covers it in job 18-1100, removing and installing oil filter. Any tips or surprises when you replaced this gasket? Thanks.

__________________
87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)

As it ends up, I never replaced the oil filter stand gasket. My oil pressure sender was leaking, along with the oil level sender. This fixed the leak coming from the oil filter area and most of the leaks under the oil pan. Now I still have to replace the upper timing cover gasket and seal, and the camshaft seal and I think it will be buttoned up. The oil leaking from the front of the engine is always blown to the rear when driving, and looked at first like the same old leak near the oil filter. Also, if your filter was loose, you may want to try a new one and remember to spread some oil on the gasket before screwing it in, hand tight.

__________________
1992 400E current
1988 300E sold
1973 280C totalled
1973 280SEL never got it running
1971 250C my first love but rusted out

When I bought my '88 260e I knew it was leaking oil - hence the cheap price. As it turned out the only leak was the upper timing cover and I fixed it for less than $25.

It's not too difficult as a DIY project. I used the MBZ sealant the first time but have since used Permatex Ultra Gray with the same good results. I believe the key is getting the mating surfaces perfectly clean and dry before applying sealant, especially at the joint near the head gasket. I had to use a sharp pick to get all the old pieces of sealant out.

Good Luck,

John

John, did you apply the sealant to the entire strip gasket, or just to the ends? I have read conflicting accounts in different threads.
Thanks

__________________
1992 400E current
1988 300E sold
1973 280C totalled
1973 280SEL never got it running
1971 250C my first love but rusted out

You definitely need to apply the sealant to the ends of the strip gasket and the vertical face of the cover (that has no gasket). I used a thin film of sealant on the surface that mates with the strip gasket because you have to slide the upper cover in place (due to the cam seal and guide pins). The thin film helps keep the strip gasket from rolling out of its groove.

Chris,
Yesterday I pulled the oil pressure sender and discovered there was no sealing ring, or what I would call a "washer". Got one from the dealer ($1.80) and installed it, noting the oil level; after this weekend of driving, I should know if the leak is gone.

__________________
87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)

Same thing happened to me on my first oil change in this car. It took me about 2 tries of the process described bellow, and then it finally came off.

If you don't already have one, buy a mid to large sized Vise-Grip pliers, the ones with the nice gripping teeth on them. Now give the stripped bolt a good strong rap right on the head with an iron hammer (not rubber). After smacking the bolt with the hammer 2-3 times now very tightly attach the Vise-Grip pliers to it and try to loosen it by turning it CCW. If it doesn't budge give it another set of raps with the hammer and try again turning it.

Just keep in mind that the pan is made of (quite strong) but still aluminum, so adjust your hitting force accordingly. Also, I would not try the technique above with cheap Vise-Grip Chinese look-a-like crap, as they may slip off and you could injure yourself. Get the real ones.

Good luck.

__________________
300E 1986 - 117KMi
Sikkens Metallic Azurite Blue
Member #120 of MB Club VE
Caracas, Venezuela

Vise grips are worth a try to remove the stripped drain plug. I had one that was so rounded-off that I had to use a small pipe wrench to remove it.

Make sure to have a replacement plug on hand when you get the old one out (about $1.50 from NAPA). Do NOT be tempted to put the old plug back in.

I have a bunch of old cars, and they occasionally develop oil leaks. I'm not very good at finding oil leaks, so I take the cars to my mechanic and let him locate them. He's 79 years old, has been working on cars since the late '30s, and is extremely knowledgeable. He won't try to locate an oil leak (unless it is obvious) unless he can steam clean the engine first. He says that makes all the difference in finding the leak. Otherwise you really can't tell where it's coming from.