Starting Issues - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

softconsult · #31 04-01-2007, 08:42 PM

Here is a tip from a veteran MB shop owner. He advises that as our engines get some miles and age on them they tend to leak air. Thus when starting you should give a little throttle, press accelerator pedal down, then start the car.

Steve

Arthur Dalton · #32 04-01-2007, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by softconsult

Here is a tip from a veteran MB shop owner. He advises that as our engines get some miles and age on them they tend to leak air. Thus when starting you should give a little throttle, press accelerator pedal down, then start the car.

Steve

Another trick is to turn the key On and wait for 10 sec before turning to the starter position....this assures full fuel system pressure before crank..........

joel · #33 04-02-2007, 03:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glenmore

On to the injectors! On removing the air filter, I had a eureka moment, when I saw that one of the injectors had an obvious leak. Luckily it was one of the easy ones to get to. The pairs of injectors on either end have great access but the two in the middle look difficult. I changed the leaky one and one other and am waiting some more in the mail. The injectors themselves look fine, the delicate tips look just like the new ones. The fit of the new Oring and new insulator in the head is tight. I had to tap them in with a 15mm socket. The old ones came right out. The old seals were very brittle and mashed. It was nice to freshen up the seals but after a couple of starts, I don't think this is the cause of my stumbling start.

glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400

Totally frustrating, isn't it?

stargazer · #34 04-02-2007, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by just-n-time

Stargazer, well how did you do?what where the results of your changes and did you do one at a time so we would gain the info needed for others?JNT

Hey just-n.... i haven't had a chance to do it yet .... I just ordered some injector seals -- and will have it this week - then planning to do it this weekend ..also it is 40 - so am waiting for warmer weather also...

I also bought a fuel filter , fuel accumulator and OVP etc -- just to be sure!!

glenmore · #35 04-14-2007, 02:41 AM

Update. Well I changed out five of the 6 injectors, and the stumbling start is basically the same. Although the car had been running plenty smooth, it runs even smoother now. The last injector is the one right by the cold start valve so I'll change it with the cold start valve. There are also some air hoses there and I just know they'll break if disturbed. I also tried a new fuel pump relay, which powers the cold start valve but again no change to the start. So that leaves me with the cold start valve as the last item to change. I'll throw in the towel after that.

glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400

joel · #36 04-14-2007, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glenmore

Update. Well I changed out five of the 6 injectors, and the stumbling start is basically the same. Although the car had been running plenty smooth, it runs even smoother now. The last injector is the one right by the cold start valve so I'll change it with the cold start valve. There are also some air hoses there and I just know they'll break if disturbed. I also tried a new fuel pump relay, which powers the cold start valve but again no change to the start. So that leaves me with the cold start valve as the last item to change. I'll throw in the towel after that.

glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400

I will be doing the same thing tomorrow. Any tips on do's and don'ts would be appreciated. Am also prepared to change the rubber underneath the cold start valve, which also connects to the ICV. That will be the real challenge but have read some tips to deal with it.

Am hoping all these work will be worthwhile. What I am trying to corrrect is the false start to my 89 300e which I suspect to have leaky fuel injectors.

glenmore · #37 04-15-2007, 12:49 PM

5 of the 6 injectors have pretty good access. I did most with a regular allen wrench but a short stubby would have been handy or best would be a ball allen. You can probably reuse the insulators but might as well change them and you'll need both new insulator O rings and new injector seals. Flare wrenches are handy. I also just changed the fuel filter. The insulators with new O rings are a tight fit. I tapped them in with a 15mm socket. Oil liberally around the new O ring with fresh oil. Take care when pulling out the old insulator. There will be a lot of dirt and grit there stopped by the O ring. Liberally oil the shaft of the new injector before you press it into the new seal. What I did was to hold the new insulator, insert the new seal into the insulator, oil up the new injector and press it in. Make sure the injector is correctly seated into the seal and then pull it and the injector back out of the insulator. Put the new O ring on the insulator and press into the block and then plug in your new injector w/seal.

I bought a new cold start valve gasket. It is just a piece of stiff paper.

The new injectors did not fix my stumble start but the car does run even smoother and throttle response seems to be crisper.

If you have and tips concerning the cold start valve, let me know. That is my next step.

Thanks,

glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400

zcc · #38 04-15-2007, 03:42 PM

I'm pretty sure the your problem is related to either the fuel distributor or the black Bosch EHA valve mounted on it or BOTH.

Try to disconnect the EHA the start the car after 10 minutes to see whether it starts or not. If it started that doesn't mean that the EHA is bad but it could be the fuel distributor.

glenmore · #39 04-15-2007, 06:57 PM

A couple of years ago, right after a head gasket replacement, I had an intermittent hard start. I took it back to the shop and he read some codes and suggested I drive it a bit more to confirm symptoms. He probably knew at that point what the problem was but didn't have the heart to tell me right after just doing a head gasket and water pump on the car. By accident I discovered that the EHA was not plugged in. I plugged it back in and the car was back to normal.

Could you over the diagnostic again?

Thanks,

glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400

joel · #40 04-16-2007, 02:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glenmore

5 of the 6 injectors have pretty good access. I did most with a regular allen wrench but a short stubby would have been handy or best would be a ball allen. You can probably reuse the insulators but might as well change them and you'll need both new insulator O rings and new injector seals. Flare wrenches are handy. I also just changed the fuel filter. The insulators with new O rings are a tight fit. I tapped them in with a 15mm socket. Oil liberally around the new O ring with fresh oil. Take care when pulling out the old insulator. There will be a lot of dirt and grit there stopped by the O ring. Liberally oil the shaft of the new injector before you press it into the new seal. What I did was to hold the new insulator, insert the new seal into the insulator, oil up the new injector and press it in. Make sure the injector is correctly seated into the seal and then pull it and the injector back out of the insulator. Put the new O ring on the insulator and press into the block and then plug in your new injector w/seal.

I bought a new cold start valve gasket. It is just a piece of stiff paper.

The new injectors did not fix my stumble start but the car does run even smoother and throttle response seems to be crisper.

If you have and tips concerning the cold start valve, let me know. That is my next step.

Thanks,

glenmore
1991 300CE
2000 C280
1990 LS400

Very good write-up:
124 chassis Idle Air Hose tricks!

joel · #41 04-16-2007, 10:36 AM

Another post suggested bleeding fuel through the distributor by taking the metal pipes one by one.

Anybody tried this with success?

just-n-time · #42 04-16-2007, 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wyattg8526

i am having the same type problem with my 1985 500 SEC USA version. I can be driving with my foot on the gas and the car will lose power and go dead. then it is hard to start but if i let it sit for about a minute it will re-start with ease what do i need to do to fix it

most likely the problem

just-n-time · #43 04-16-2007, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stargazer

Thanks loubapache -- will do as suggested and keep you posted!!

have them sent to a pro for cleaning much cheaper

just-n-time · #44 04-16-2007, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by softconsult

Here is a tip from a veteran MB shop owner. He advises that as our engines get some miles and age on them they tend to leak air. Thus when starting you should give a little throttle, press accelerator pedal down, then start the car.

Steve

Once the Idle air lines get hard they leek so replace them,Its cheep and solves a great deal of troubles when you go one step farther and replace the entire rubber pieces of the intake and vacuum ports.Very cheep insurance!

just-n-time · #45 04-16-2007, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stargazer

Hey just-n.... i haven't had a chance to do it yet .... I just ordered some injector seals -- and will have it this week - then planning to do it this weekend ..also it is 40 - so am waiting for warmer weather also...

I also bought a fuel filter , fuel accumulator and OVP etc -- just to be sure!!

Thats a lot of parts!