W210 Won't Start!!??!!
 

I've got 130K on my '97 W210. This morning, I start her up, back out of the garage, "Lamp Defective" light comes on. Get out of the car, walk around, all lamps AOK. Think to myself, maybe a brake light or reverse light. I wasn't really paying that close attention when the warning light came on. Shut the car off to see if the fault comes on when I hit the brakes or go into reverse. Thinking I'm a clever fault isolator at this point. But guess what - car won't start. Just one loud click when I turn the key. Not turning over, no series of clicks, one click and that's it. Power is working, lights, radio, etc. Tried jumping it off the family truckster, no dice.

What does this august group of pundits and luminaries think? Could it be the starter? Alternator?

Did you try starting the car in neutral instead of park?

Rebel62, you may need a new battery. They die very suddenly from my experience with MB automobiles.

I agree with the battery as the first thing to try, especially if it is 5+ years old. Even if you try and jump it if dead you may not exceed the threshhold voltage for the car to crank. It could also be a bad ground, or loose cable at the ends which connect to ground and to the car but start with the simplest thing first and check the battery.

Didn't think of the batttery since all lights were shining brightly. Also, didn't think to start it in neutral. I flatbedded it over to my indie but they haven't come back with a diagnosis. I'll let y'all know what they come back with.

Was the click from the starter motor? Trying giving it a sharp tap with a hammer.

Parrot:
Click did sound like the starter, still waiting on my indie diagnosis. I'll let everyone know.

The diagnosis from my shop - broken battery cable. Ever hear of this? Seems really odd since I haven't been doing anything under the back seat. Do these cables just break??

Perhaps too much activity ON TOP of the back seat? ;)

In a 10 year old car anything can "just break". Consider yourself lucky since the fix is very cheap and you obvioulsy have an honest mechanic there. I know it can be upsetting to have a car towed for such a minor issue, but it could have been worse...also, had you followed my prior post you might have found it yourself (I had said check the battery and cables for loose connections). Often it is the simple, obvious things that are the culprets.

nhdoc:
You were tight on the cables. Hard to believe they would just break.

Blackmercedes:No monkey business in my backseat. Unfortunately

Battery cables and connections show up when trying to start b/c the starter current draw is too high for the poor connection, so the connection ceases to conduct .
But you tried the lights and radio. etc. to verify the battery.

WRONG...

Here is an old trick of the trade for bad battery connections.

Turn on the headlights .. you see you have them..now leave them ON......now, try the starter..as soon as the starter circuit is activated , you get no starter AND the lights also go out ..BAD battery connection.
..but , if the starter does not work and the lights STAY on when the key is turned to starter position , the battery connections are not the fault.
Simple and good trick to remember..

My 98 E300D W210 experienced a one-time (so far) starting problem 2 weeks ago. That morning the car started normally and I drove it 3 miles and shut it down while I dropped off the kids. 5 minutes later I tried to start it but the starter wouldn't turn over. All the electric stuff inside the car seemed to be ok. Couldn't asses the brightness of the headlights since it was a sunny day. Glow plug light ran its normal cycle, but no clicking and no slow cranking. I then borrowed an suv to try jump-starting. When I connected the cables, there was an audible change in engine RPM of the rescue vehicle. A minute or 2 later I tried the key again and the engine fired right up. Ok, sounds like a weak battery. No indication of the age of the battery from the previous owner. I let the car sit in my driveway for a few days and tried to replicate the problem, but it started every time. Took the battery to the parts shop and they tested it under load and it passed. Battery went back in to the car and I've been driving it since without any indication of weakness.

I'd gladly pay the $80 for a new battery if it would solve the problem, but I suspect something else is to blame.

any suggestions?

Thanks,
Paul

I have talked to serveral owners before and they do not seem to know that MB has free for life of the car breakdown service. They will come to your house and replace a battery, change a tire,etc - simple stuff. They will also change a MAF or CPS for you if you have a spare.

See post #13 for the original problem description...

Here's some more info:

Using the climate control pusbutton control module to view vehicle data,
(see Steve Brotherton's article: http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic40142.html)

I noticed the following:
24 - Battery voltage = 13.1 volts
This is the reading while driving @ 50mph. Do you think it's a little low?
23 - Terminal 58d (99.0 corresponds to 99% battery voltage). Mine =0.0
What is this? Is it somehow a measure of the battery health?

Thanks for your help!

Paul